Trip Report Trip Report: Sea of Cortez on the Rocio Del Mar

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dianna912

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Messages
197
Reaction score
185
Location
Virginia
# of dives
200 - 499
Whewee, we are in a hotel in Arizona, fresh off the Rocio Del Mar.... it was a memorable trip, to be sure, and will likely go down in infamy for all on board. Skip down a bit if you just want to hear about the boat.

The trip starts in the port of Puerto Penasco, where we got to enjoy the flat waters of the harbor for the first three days after boarding. Despite NOAA reports clearly stating "gentle winds" and "3 foot waves" the harbor master would not let any boats leave the harbor, claiming that the seas were treacherous.:poke:

Boarded Saturday, Monday mid-day, we finally got the word: we are freed from our **** filled prison. (Quite literal since this harbor has no wastewater facilities, and all the boats just dump their refuse in the harbor. That's an important tidbit for later...)

Colonel Bob, the leader of the crew, moved mountains to cram 16 dives into 3 days plus the last morning. It was a blistering fast pace, and not for the faint of heart. As it would turn out, we were faint of heart by the end of the trip, but not from the dives....

Monday, we sat in the TV room playing scrabble. I started feeling what can only be described as icky, and a sense of dread set in. I woke up Tuesday morning and tested for Covid-19. My 3rd test in 4 days. (Rocio requires one.) All negative. We dive off Angel de la Guardia. We had skipped the first, colder dives to make good time sailing. Nudis literally rained on us at one point. Lots of fun macro life. That evening, at dinner, I realized my right ear was completely blocked.

Wednesday, I had body aches, and my ear would not budge. I began to isolate for all dinners and anything not outdoors, just to be cautious. I did snorkel above the divers on 3 dives on Wed and Thursday, playing with Sea Lions. That was absolutely magical. But I was still heartbroken. I've only missed one dive in all of our travels. One. And that was when it turns out I had typhoid. Wednesday night I ran a low-grade fever.

Thursday morning, our friends who asked us on this trip got a call that her uncle had died from Covid.

I finally got a tiny bit of movement in my ear Thursday afternoon, and was able to do the last two dives of the day. I was still isolating, eating alone, avoiding anyone indoors. Thursday afternoon, the same friends had been couging a bit and decided to test for Covid. They were positive. They were quarantined in their room.

By Friday afternoon, two more had tested positive. Colonel Bob decided to test us one by one to decide what to do for transport back to Arizona. 7/14 were positive.
Two of the Arizona guys decided to forego the tests to leave the last two on the boat to Bob, and they were just going to be "presumptive positive." I was positive. My husband was negative. Same with another couple from our group of six. Friday night, after testing, my husband spiked a fever. Now the other husband has one, so I'd say our boat was likely 70% + positivity rate.

It was a nightmare of an emotional roller coaster, but could have been worse. I keep questioning whether I was patient zero, but no one can really know. I have a tendency to always be the first person who shows symptoms if I'm in a group that get's sick. (Salmonella outbreak for example.) The one thing I'm truly grateful for is that the crew stayed healthy, and I am absolutely praying it stays like that. For us, this was vacation. For them, it is their livelihood. And I'm fairly confident that the crew does not get paid if they are quarantined.

THE BOAT/CREW/ETC: The boat was interesting. It did not feel very clean. The "finishes" they used in the rooms and such were not made for a boat, so the flooring had separated and had rust or mold coming up through it. The water coming out of the shower smelled like rust. There is no macerator on board, so no flushing TP. Boat and the initial dive procedure briefing were held in the 10x15 room. (About an hour long each) The galley was below deck, in the bow, so no airflow, so both were definitely high-exposure areas.

Food was absolutely amazing. We are vegetarian, and they really went out of their way to accomodate us, a vegan couple, and another vegetarian, with very balanced, delicious meals. The food went downhill a bit when one person specifically requested to be served steamed cauliflower and brocolli, instead of their incredible grilled zuchinni, tomatoes, etc, and they gave the steamed stuff to all of us, but we completely understood that they can't be expected to make tons of different meals. When they were left to work their magic, it was truly incredible.

One big disappointment with the liveaboard is their disregard for the ocean. Lots of stuff is going into their wastewater that is then being dumped directly into the ocean, since their port does not have greywater facilities. This included, but most certainly isn't limited to: fabric softener in the rinse bin for the wetsuits, which is dumped daily, off-brand toilet-bowl cleaner, shampoos, conditioners, mask rinse. Cost saving is clearly prioritized over preserving the ecosystem that their business is built off of, which is incredibly short-sighted, in my opinion.

The diving is extremely sporty, with ripping currents on many dives. No reef to speak of. Basically muck dives. The Sea Lions are incredible. The macro life is fairly rich, but not even as rich as the Blue Heron Bridge. (Maybe we are spoiled?)

All in all, it could have been worse, but this was definitely our worst dive trip. I don't know that I want to do a liveaboard again during covid times. I'm already sick over booking Amira next November instead of the incredible looking Coralia, since the Amira seems to be a similar "okay to lay your head down, but if you can't dive, you're going to be miserable" type of experience. The Coralia has a big suite with an amazing outdoor balcony. Anyways, just some musing. Hopefully someone can make us feel better about that one.

I'd love to see a debate on the effectiveness of quarantining covid guests on a liveaboard. It seemed with this trip, that by the time a guest tests positive, it is too late. Symptoms are fairly useless with diving, considering symptoms are extremely common with multi-dive days. Which makes full quarantining in the room fairly useless. I might create a separate post about this.

Anyways, we are now quaranting at the Arizona Biltmore, which is a truly spectacular place to be.
 
Yikes thnx for sharing
 
Yikes thnx for sharing
Absolutely!

I will add about the quarantining, and this will likely make me sound like a terrible person: I did not test a second (fourth total) time until Friday afternoon BECAUSE of the quarantine policy. Had they not had that policy, I would have likely tested every 12 hours, implemented extreme isolation/n-95 masking measures, but still did the sea lion and whale shark snorkels. I was not willing to miss swimming with whale sharks for the first time in my life, at that point. If I could have worn an n-95 mask to go out, jump in pangas, wait until everyone else was in the water, then swap n-95 over to snorkel, I would have kept testing. This would have allowed the boat to implement policies to help prevent spread. No indoor congregating. N-95 masks on staff, etc.

Thursday after the friends tested positive, Bob really wanted me to test but there was zero chance I was agreeing to that until after whale sharks. I did start to n-95 around everyone, even outdoors, unless I was in a stiff downwind position 6 feet away at that point. Sometimes having too strict of a policy can backfire. They might have slowed the spread down had they not had the room-prison policy.
 
Thanks for taking the time to report on your trip. You now have me a bit concerned about my upcoming trip on the Rocio del Mar from September 3-10. My dive group has the whole boat chartered to ourselves. Happy to hear you were pleased with the food. I am Vegan and that can always be hit or miss. The whale shark snorkeling and lots of nudibranchs are what i am most looking forward to. I have had enough sea lions for a lifetime after diving and dive-mastering in the Channel Islands for a few years. But they are always fun regardless. I will definitely do a trip report, as I always do. Thanks again.
 
Thanks for taking the time to report on your trip. You now have me a bit concerned about my upcoming trip on the Rocio del Mar from September 3-10. My dive group has the whole boat chartered to ourselves. Happy to hear you were pleased with the food. I am Vegan and that can always be hit or miss. The whale shark snorkeling and lots of nudibranchs are what i am most looking forward to. I have had enough sea lions for a lifetime after diving and dive-mastering in the Channel Islands for a few years. But they are always fun regardless. I will definitely do a trip report, as I always do. Thanks again.

I’m sure it will be great. As an eat-sleep-dive boat it’s pretty good. You’ll likely hear all about our group. We’ll haunt those halls for a lifetime.
 
That's unfortunate you had this experience on the Ricio as we had a great experience. Bob is a great guy and we used to teach out of the same shop in California. The food was amazing including the Vegan dishes especially if you go look at how small the galley is. The diving is not your foofy Caribbean diving but you will experience cold and warm water species as well as endemic species, think of it as safari diving. Probably a good thing they kept you in the harbor as they closed it after we left and about 1am we woke up about 4 feet in the air above our bed with waves crashing over the wheel house, it was a little sporty. The boat is a dive boat not a luxury liner but it is a nice dive boat in my opinion. I would go with them again no question actually we are looking at going for my buddies 60th in 2024 and do the North to South 14 day trip.
 
Oof. I'm headed on the Rocio in a few weeks... I hope we have better luck than you! Thanks for the report and I hope your quarantine goes well.
 
That's unfortunate you had this experience on the Ricio as we had a great experience. Bob is a great guy and we used to teach out of the same shop in California. The food was amazing including the Vegan dishes especially if you go look at how small the galley is. The diving is not your foofy Caribbean diving but you will experience cold and warm water species as well as endemic species, think of it as safari diving. Probably a good thing they kept you in the harbor as they closed it after we left and about 1am we woke up about 4 feet in the air above our bed with waves crashing over the wheel house, it was a little sporty. The boat is a dive boat not a luxury liner but it is a nice dive boat in my opinion. I would go with them again no question actually we are looking at going for my buddies 60th in 2024 and do the North to South 14 day trip.

The waves were only 2 feet, and winds were gentle. We think there was something political or military going on. I definitely don't want this to be taken as disparaging of Bob or the Rocio, because it was definitely sufficient for an eat-sleep-dive trip. The particular combination of being stuck in harbor combined with Covid just made for a very rough trip, and put that lens on the entire trip. Looking through my pictures and videos, though, we had some incredible finds for the few dives I was able to do.
 
I would edit my OP as I realize it comes off a bit more negative of the Rocio than I intended. I think if it hadn’t been for Covid and/or the stuck in harbor part, we would be singing praises of this trip.

One thing that could have improved our experience was more bottom time. The sea of Cortez is listed many places as one of the best macro sites in the world. 50 minutes of bottom time does not let you really experience that. As 2.5-3 hour divers at the bridge, I realize we are spoiled. It would be really nice if there was some way to allow the macro hunters (we were all on one panga) to do eliminate a dive, and do one single long, shallow dive in the afternoon, skipping a snack to do so.

Looking at my photos, I’m finding more macro life than I realized, that I would have seen had I been able to do my usual searching. It is extremely challenging to find sub 5mm nudis with a 50 minute time limit, of course.

If we ever did want to return to the Sea of Cortez, are there any recommendations on how we could do something more like this? I could definitely get a group of macro hunters together to charter a small boat, I think.
 
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