Trip Report: Loreto

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I was looking for an easy to get to, good quality dive location with lots of water-based activities for a non-diver. Ideally, it would have rentals for sea kayaks, SUPs, 2-person sailboats, windsurfing, etc... as well as some inland stuff. Loreto sounds like that's as close as I'm going to get for all of that.
It is ... just keep in mind ... and it bears repeating ... the water's pretty cold in the winter. The diving's still good, but you'll want a 7mm wetsuit.

There are a couple places in town to rent kayaks ... one's better for sea kayaks and the other for sit-on-tops. Kayaking in the park is incredible ... Danzante Island's pretty accessible by kayak, as is Coronado. And if you're a hardy sort you can probably paddle all the way to Carmen, although around Carmen Island is at least a two-day trip. And there are guides available if you want to hire one.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
I was looking for an easy to get to, good quality dive location with lots of water-based activities for a non-diver. Ideally, it would have rentals for sea kayaks, SUPs, 2-person sailboats, windsurfing, etc... as well as some inland stuff. Loreto sounds like that's as close as I'm going to get for all of that.
I didn't see any sailboats, windsurfers or SUPs in Loreto when we were there. No little sailboats to rent that I saw. I think there is a fair bit of kayaking there. September was too hot for land activities. Last time we went in November, we were able to hike one day but most land is privately held so not a lot of places to go to hike. Loreto was a ghost town in September and a sleepy place in November. We dove in the morning and just relaxed in the afternoon. I would not take anyone there who wasn't a diver. Maybe in Cabo or La Paz there are more water based activities.
 
I lived in Loreto for four and a half years ... having just moved away three months ago. I'm surprised to read your review of Blue Nation, since I've done hundreds of dives with them and never had a bad experience. But no dive company is 100%, and it's possible they had a bad day. As you say, Dolphin Dive is also a really good outfit to work with. Besides those two, there are a few companies that offer various tourist services, among them scuba diving ... they're hit or miss in terms of quality of experience, but some are worth using if the other two dive ops are already booked.

If I had to pick a "favorite" month to dive it would be October. The water is still warm and clear, the air temps are not so hot, and the seasonal folks haven't begun arriving just yet ... they usually come in November and December. The water gets really cold in winter ... down to the low 60's by February, and beginning to warm up in April or May. Most of that's due to seasonal currents causing upwellings ... which often makes for poor visibility ... but it also brings with it the reason for the whales in the winter months. Blue whales are the largest animals that ever existed on earth .... and you can see them every winter right there in Loreto's "front yard". Spring brings with it heavy, heavy schools of sardines, and all the larger predators that feed on them. In March 2021 I had the experience of watching a bubble-hunting humpback whale breaching with its mouth wide open ... it was so close to town people were standing on the malecon watching the show. June brings the migrations of mobula rays ... those ones that leap into the air flapping their wings and doing backflips. It's quite the show. Dolphins are abundant most of the seasons ... both the bottlenose and their more numerous smaller cousins, the common dolphins. Later in the year, orcas tend to come in ... we watched them hunting dolphins once. It was a brutal display of nature, but quite the experience to watch ... fortunately they waited till we were out of the water (yes, we were scuba diving) before the real action started ... but they were all around us when we surfaced from the dive.

Guess what I'm trying to say is that every season has its highlights out in the park. But unless you're into cold water and relatively low vis, Loreto's probably not the best choice for a winter vacation. Go in late spring or early fall for the best vacation diving.

Besides the diving, there's paddleboarding, kayaking, and fishing for water activities. Hiking ... yeah, for vacationers I'd suggest hiring a guide, as the mountains are steep, rugged, and for the most part private property ... Tabor Canyon is one of the rare hikes on public land in the area. Locals and expats tend to know where and how to go, but for tourists I'd say a guide is best option. For those interested in something a bit unique, inquire about Mesquite Canyon ... and be prepared to do portions of the hike wading through pools of water in a canyon that's, at times, just a few meters wide. It's a signature hike in that area.

Spend a day at San Javier ... a ranching town about 25 miles into the mountains. Take a mule ride in those mountains ... several of the tourist services companies offer them. Hire a sailboat out of Puerto Escondido ... about 15 miles south of town ... and go visit the park's islands ... they're spectacular.

It's a beautiful place ... I left it for my own reasons, but much of my heart remains in that particular little slice of paradise ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
Hi Bob,

Thanks for your very informative post!

My wife and I (she's a diver, I'm not, but I'm the travel planner) are planning a trip to Loreto for the last week in April (2025). I've picked that week as it's the last week WestJet serves LTO until October. My preference for warmer water would've been early May, but it is what it is. Can you give me a sense of what water temps are likely to be right at the end of April? Will a 3mm full wetsuit be sufficient? We're also hoping visibility will at least be decent.

Thanks for any guidance.
 
Hi Bob,

Thanks for your very informative post!

My wife and I (she's a diver, I'm not, but I'm the travel planner) are planning a trip to Loreto for the last week in April (2025). I've picked that week as it's the last week WestJet serves LTO until October. My preference for warmer water would've been early May, but it is what it is. Can you give me a sense of what water temps are likely to be right at the end of April? Will a 3mm full wetsuit be sufficient? We're also hoping visibility will at least be decent.

Thanks for any guidance.
A 3 mm wetsuit will not be sufficient in April, or even May. I wouldn't wear one in Loreto waters until at least mid to late June, as the water temps are more appropriate for a 5 mm that time of year.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
A 3 mm wetsuit will not be sufficient in April, or even May. I wouldn't wear one in Loreto waters until at least mid to late June, as the water temps are more appropriate for a 5 mm that time of year.

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
Even a 5 might not be enough if someone runs cold. I was diving Loreto at the end of April '23. My logs say bottom temps were between 63 - 69F, surface temps between 72- 75F. I was wearing a 7/8mm semidry and warm, a buddy in a 5mm was cold. If I were going again at that time of year, I'd likely be diving dry. There was a noticeable thermocline below about 60ft on many of the sites.
 
Hi @hiker11

Thanks for the great review. I have been considering Loreto for some time. Blue Nation has gotten very good reviews on SB but I hear it is for sale Dive Center for Sale - Top-rated and succesful diveshop in Loreto Bay Nationa Park, Baja California Sur. Did you consider this operation, hear anything about it?

Sounds like Dolphin Dive Baja was very good for you, did you go out without a private guide? I assume you dived rental AL80s. How long were your dives? Did you dive nitrox?
Hey there! Yago here, one of the owners of Blue Nation!
Just a little bit of information about the sale of the shop. Regardless of being looking for investors/buyers we are operating normally and there is no deadline whatsoever. We are currently developing other projects locally, some of them dive related, and we are considering a change of paths, but we will happily run the shop until it sells and will remain in Loreto in any case☺️
 
We tried Blue Nation on our November trip as they were highly recommended on scubaboard. But we found them harder to work with (hard to book, their shop was never open although we stopped in several times, hard to reach by phone, etc). The day we did dive with them, the dive master was super impatient with everyone and got annoyed when someone needed something. And the dive group was big-- 8 people-- way too big for our tastes. The dive master swam too fast for everyone and never looked back. Perhaps others have had a better experience. For us, we wouldn't use anyone other than Dolphin Dive Baja as they provided great/varied diving, small groups and attentive/enthusiastic dive guides. We dove with Dolphin dive 11 days and they were consistently good.
Thanks for your honest feedback @hiker11. Im
Yago, one of the owners.
It saddens me to read that it was not a good day out, it really weighs on me when things do not go well for our guests.
I can not know exactly what day it was but according to what you describe, i have a rough idea of when it was. We can take 10 passengers onboard, but when it's divers we only take 6 divers max, and if there were more than that I believe it was one day that we have an issue with our booking system and we ended up having to carry a couple of extra guests that day. Im sorry for that it was totally our fault.
As for the problems trying to book with us, i will pass your comments to the staff and try to improve this in the future. At the end of last year we were building our new place and moving things out and the shop staff was having irregular shifts for a couple of months. I hope this doesnt happen again.

Please contact me so i can fix this and try to get you a good experience next time if you are willing to give us another go 😉
 
Outstanding place to kayak and practice rolling.

This is the hotel we liked:

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