Trip Report: Loreto

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hiker11

Registered
Messages
23
Reaction score
44
Location
USA
# of dives
100 - 199
My first trip report:



We just completed our second dive trip to Loreto, Baja, Mexico. We took our first trip there for Thanksgiving in 2022. It was so easy and inexpensive, we decided to try it again, Sept. 2023. We’re already talking about coming back in 2024.

Thanksgiving November 2022
Sea temperature: 72 (a little cool for us). 5mm wetsuit + vest with hood
Weather: Around 75-80 degrees during the day, but very windy (15-25mph). In fact, they closed the port one day due to high winds so we were unable to dive that day. Dive sites were limited because of rough seas so we were only able to dive on the lee side of Coronado Island. We dove the same 4 sites for the entire 5 days we were there. Visibility ranged from 25-40’.

Late September 2023
Sea temperature: 87! I wore a 3mm wetsuit and was warm at times.
Weather: Hot! 95-100 degrees every day, winds < 10mph. Flat, glassy water most mornings. Due to the calm seas, we dove all islands: Coronado, Carmen and Danzante. Very little current anywhere. Visibility ranged from 40-60’.

Loreto is a sleepy little town, with 1 pedestrian street of shops and restaurants. There’s a pretty mission church, built in the 1600’s, which rings its bells several times a day. We were told that high season is Dec/Jan/Feb for whale watching. When we visited at Thanksgiving, we thought it was quiet, except for one day when a cruise ship anchored for the afternoon. But coming in low season—September—the town was nearly empty. Restaurants were mostly empty. Dive boats were empty. That said, our hotel says they are full.

For both trips, we stayed in La Mision Hotel, right across from the port and overlooking the water. We stayed in their biggest room, ocean view, marble floors, A/C, big balcony. $221 per night…. A bargain in our book! We ate every breakfast at the hotel and had a few dinners and lunches there too. We even ate our Thanksgiving dinner in the hotel. The food is great and the service has been fast & excellent. One thing to note about the hotel: there was a lot of street noise until 10pm or so. It wasn’t a problem later at night, but during the day and evening, we could hear car stereos and loud engines as they drove by. Besides the hotel restaurant, we ate many dinners at Jr’s & Georges on the pedestrian street and El Cielo, across from the mission—both excellent. Loreto has a nice, relatively new, airport. We had our hotel arrange the airport transport so we didn't have to rent a car.

Diving: We’ve been impressed. We thought the diving was better than Belize, Grand Cayman, Turks/Caicos, Kona or Maui! There were a massive number of grunts at Danzante. Our dive guide told us ahead of time that we ‘wouldn’t be able to see the rocks for all the fish’. He was right. They were thick—walls of fish, waterfalls of fish, as far as the eye could see. There were also lots of Sargeant Majors everywhere we went, both trips. Beyond the impressive number of grunts and sargeant majors, we also saw a number of spotted eagle rays, bullseye rays, reef rays big and small, eels galore, stone fish, jowl fish, turtles, angel fish, nudibranch, the usual. But the magic for us was diving with the Sea Lions. We were not able to dive with them in November due to the rough seas on the point where the sea lions hang out. But on our more recent September trip, we dove with them 5 times. We were often the only people diving there. The sea lions would play around us, race past us, come up to our faces, but always stay just out of reach. We were told that the sea lions only rest in Loreto and don’t mate, so there are no aggressive males to worry about. In the panga, going to/from our dive sites in November, we saw huge pods of dolphins (100s) all around the boat. But we never saw them on a dive. In September, we saw a small number of dolphins around the boat, but only one time.

Dive shop we used: We dove almost exclusively with Dolphin Dive Baja and highly recommend them! We tried another dive shop one day in November, but they were harder to work with and put us with an impatient dive guide in a group of 8 (even though they advertised smaller groups). With Dolphin Dive Baja, on the other hand, we have either been by ourselves or with only a few other people. We have sometimes paid extra to be with our own guide and have our own panga—Nice! The dive guides have been enthusiastic and fun—full of information about the geology, birds and fish. On one dive, my mask strap broke in the middle of the dive and my dive master immediately gave me his mask to use and used my broken one himself for the rest of the dive. Maria, who runs Dolphin Dive Baja, was super easy to work with. They let us keep our dive gear on the boat/in their shop. So in the mornings, we could roll out of bed, catch a quick breakfast and simply walk across the street from our hotel to the port (5 minutes)—it’s as easy as it gets. I could not recommend them more.

What else to do: Loreto doesn’t have much going on, so it’s ideal for folks like me that like it quiet. When we went in November, we took one day to go hiking at Tabor Canyon. I can’t remember the guide we used (got the company from tripadvisor) but he was great. The hike was relatively short but required some sketchy climbing at the end. We’re avid backcountry hikers but getting up past the second pool was a challenge. Hiking was out of the question for us in September due to the high temps. Other than hiking, it looks like there is also golfing south of Loreto. We’re not golfers so I can’t report on that. Fishing and kayaking are also popular but we didn’t do either of those.
 
Thanks for the trip report. Any other tips you want to share? How did you get there? Any hassles with immigration and camera taxes? Would you mind sharing details on costs to dive, eat, and other expenses?
 
Flew SFO->LAX->Loreto via Alaska Air. No direct flights, unfortunately. At the airport, they asked about my camera on both trips. The first time, they asked if I had a housing --I didn't know then about the 'camera tax' so I was kind of confused what they were asking about. They gave up and just let me through. The more recent trip, they asked if I had a camera and I said I just had a little instant camera (I have an Olympus TG6). I didn't mention the housing and they just waved me through.

My husband paid the dinner bills so I didn't pay attention to cost. In general, we felt meals were inexpensive compared to other locations we've gone (Hawaii, Turks, Grand Cayman). I think the diving was $140 per person for a 2 tank dive. We often paid an extra $100 for a private guide and our own panga (for the two of us). Even though there weren't many other divers going out, we prefer being in control of where we go and how long we stay down. Some of our dives were 65 minutes. Lunch, fruit and cookies provided.

We went to Cabo 25 years ago (not diving then) and hated it-- we were hustled constantly. So we were wary about traveling back to Mexico. We were delighted to find that Loreto doesn't have any of that! Warm, friendly people. No scamming. No hustling. Consistently excellent service. Beware, though, it is a SLEEPY little town. If you are looking for night life or nice restaurants, this is not the place.
 
@hiker11, thank you for a very timely trip report. My wife and I will be going to Loreto the first week of November.

The information about the water temperature is certainly encouraging, as well as your description of the aquatic life.

We have dived in Cabo San Lucas three times, with side trips to La Paz and Cabo Pulmo. It sounds like the diving at Loreto will be just that much better.

I have one, non-diving question, if you don't mind.

We will also be staying at La Mision, and are curious about what they do about drinking water? We typically have water bottles which we refill. Are there water bottles to dispense drinking water around the hotel?

Thanks!
 
We tried Blue Nation on our November trip as they were highly recommended on scubaboard. But we found them harder to work with (hard to book, their shop was never open although we stopped in several times, hard to reach by phone, etc). The day we did dive with them, the dive master was super impatient with everyone and got annoyed when someone needed something. And the dive group was big-- 8 people-- way too big for our tastes. The dive master swam too fast for everyone and never looked back. Perhaps others have had a better experience. For us, we wouldn't use anyone other than Dolphin Dive Baja as they provided great/varied diving, small groups and attentive/enthusiastic dive guides. We dove with Dolphin dive 11 days and they were consistently good.
 
@hiker11, thank you for a very timely trip report. My wife and I will be going to Loreto the first week of November.

The information about the water temperature is certainly encouraging, as well as your description of the aquatic life.

We have dived in Cabo San Lucas three times, with side trips to La Paz and Cabo Pulmo. It sounds like the diving at Loreto will be just that much better.

I have one, non-diving question, if you don't mind.

We will also be staying at La Mision, and are curious about what they do about drinking water? We typically have water bottles which we refill. Are there water bottles to dispense drinking water around the hotel?

Thanks!
La Mision told me that they filter their tap water so we have gotten more comfortable using it to brush teeth, make coffee, etc. I'm still pretty careful about drinking bottled water and was able to buy it at reception. They said not to trust the water at all the restaurants in town, so I avoided ice drinks, etc. Years ago, when we went to Cabo, my husband got extremely sick from something he ate/drank. So we take precautions as we don't want any stomach problems to get in the way of diving.

BTW-- In early November the sea may be too rough for you to get out the point to dive with the sea lions. On our first trip, in late November, it was quite windy and there was lots of current so we didn't get out there. I was also told that the wall of grunt fish we saw are only around in warm waters so they might be gone by November too. But you'll still see plenty of other things.
 
Hi @hiker11

Thanks for the great review. I have been considering Loreto for some time. Blue Nation has gotten very good reviews on SB but I hear it is for sale Dive Center for Sale - Top-rated and succesful diveshop in Loreto Bay Nationa Park, Baja California Sur. Did you consider this operation, hear anything about it?

Sounds like Dolphin Dive Baja was very good for you, did you go out without a private guide? I assume you dived rental AL80s. How long were your dives? Did you dive nitrox?
In Sept, we got private guides and our own panga every day. In November, we did a mix of diving with a private guide and also did some dives with others. No Nitrox offered. Don't know what the tanks were, just the usual size. Our dives were often shallower since we liked diving with the sea lions-- so around 50'. Our dives were usually around 60 minutes, plus or minus. But we often came up with air to spare.
 
@hiker11, thank you for a very timely trip report. My wife and I will be going to Loreto the first week of November.

The information about the water temperature is certainly encouraging, as well as your description of the aquatic life.

We have dived in Cabo San Lucas three times, with side trips to La Paz and Cabo Pulmo. It sounds like the diving at Loreto will be just that much better.

I have one, non-diving question, if you don't mind.

We will also be staying at La Mision, and are curious about what they do about drinking water? We typically have water bottles which we refill. Are there water bottles to dispense drinking water around the hotel?

Thanks!
Reread your post/ question. I did not see big water jugs for refilling your water bottles in the hotel.
 
We tried Blue Nation on our November trip as they were highly recommended on scubaboard. But we found them harder to work with (hard to book, their shop was never open although we stopped in several times, hard to reach by phone, etc). The day we did dive with them, the dive master was super impatient with everyone and got annoyed when someone needed something. And the dive group was big-- 8 people-- way too big for our tastes. The dive master swam too fast for everyone and never looked back. Perhaps others have had a better experience. For us, we wouldn't use anyone other than Dolphin Dive Baja as they provided great/varied diving, small groups and attentive/enthusiastic dive guides. We dove with Dolphin dive 11 days and they were consistently good.
I lived in Loreto for four and a half years ... having just moved away three months ago. I'm surprised to read your review of Blue Nation, since I've done hundreds of dives with them and never had a bad experience. But no dive company is 100%, and it's possible they had a bad day. As you say, Dolphin Dive is also a really good outfit to work with. Besides those two, there are a few companies that offer various tourist services, among them scuba diving ... they're hit or miss in terms of quality of experience, but some are worth using if the other two dive ops are already booked.

If I had to pick a "favorite" month to dive it would be October. The water is still warm and clear, the air temps are not so hot, and the seasonal folks haven't begun arriving just yet ... they usually come in November and December. The water gets really cold in winter ... down to the low 60's by February, and beginning to warm up in April or May. Most of that's due to seasonal currents causing upwellings ... which often makes for poor visibility ... but it also brings with it the reason for the whales in the winter months. Blue whales are the largest animals that ever existed on earth .... and you can see them every winter right there in Loreto's "front yard". Spring brings with it heavy, heavy schools of sardines, and all the larger predators that feed on them. In March 2021 I had the experience of watching a bubble-hunting humpback whale breaching with its mouth wide open ... it was so close to town people were standing on the malecon watching the show. June brings the migrations of mobula rays ... those ones that leap into the air flapping their wings and doing backflips. It's quite the show. Dolphins are abundant most of the seasons ... both the bottlenose and their more numerous smaller cousins, the common dolphins. Later in the year, orcas tend to come in ... we watched them hunting dolphins once. It was a brutal display of nature, but quite the experience to watch ... fortunately they waited till we were out of the water (yes, we were scuba diving) before the real action started ... but they were all around us when we surfaced from the dive.

Guess what I'm trying to say is that every season has its highlights out in the park. But unless you're into cold water and relatively low vis, Loreto's probably not the best choice for a winter vacation. Go in late spring or early fall for the best vacation diving.

Besides the diving, there's paddleboarding, kayaking, and fishing for water activities. Hiking ... yeah, for vacationers I'd suggest hiring a guide, as the mountains are steep, rugged, and for the most part private property ... Tabor Canyon is one of the rare hikes on public land in the area. Locals and expats tend to know where and how to go, but for tourists I'd say a guide is best option. For those interested in something a bit unique, inquire about Mesquite Canyon ... and be prepared to do portions of the hike wading through pools of water in a canyon that's, at times, just a few meters wide. It's a signature hike in that area.

Spend a day at San Javier ... a ranching town about 25 miles into the mountains. Take a mule ride in those mountains ... several of the tourist services companies offer them. Hire a sailboat out of Puerto Escondido ... about 15 miles south of town ... and go visit the park's islands ... they're spectacular.

It's a beautiful place ... I left it for my own reasons, but much of my heart remains in that particular little slice of paradise ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
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