Trip Report Palau 02/16-03/03

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AlaskaDiver

Contributor
Messages
612
Reaction score
6
Location
Eagle River, Alaska -> moved to Cape Cod, Mass
# of dives
1000 - 2499
I had to wait a while to cool off before writing this trip report as everything would come out negative. It wasn’t all negative though. The trip itself was a fun trip of a lifetime that we will never forget, however due to the cattle boat mentality of our dive boat operator, I will no longer use Sam’s. I heard sparkling reviews of Sam’s as to how they have personalized service and great lunch time activities including walks to caves etc. After the first few days of Blue Hole and Blue Corner intermittently interspersed with lunches at rat infested Ulong Island doing absolutely nothing, we expressed a desire for more variety. We were met with mumbles of 'yeah sure'.

Sam’s had absolutely no rhyme or reason as to how they loaded the people each day on the boats other than head count. All the boats going out were cattle boat style with 8-14 divers. There apparently was a shortage of boats at Sam’s so some rickety boats were borrowed with captains who were only interested in chewing betelnut. If you were unlucky enough to get scheduled on those boats, you really suffered the 1 hr ride out to the dive site. Sometimes it wasn’t the boat, but rather the divers themselves. One day we were put onto a boat with 4 other Germans who were quite possibly the rudest divers I have ever encountered and who smoked the entire dive day. Our dive master for the day giggled and said her English wasn’t that good and apologized for the two dive briefs. She spent the entire day conversing with the Germans and ignored us. Back at the shop, we requested politely from the scheduler a different dive master and preferably English speaking divers. In the shop (apparently not aware that I was buying a pair of booties within earshot) the dive master complained to the scheduler that she did not have enough people. I could immediately see where her priorities were.

We requested wrecks and any kind of historical WWII and Palauan historical information including site visits. Our requests were met by the dive masters all fumbling through scripted responses of “our kayak tours do some of the land visits, but we don’t have time”. We voiced our opinion up the chain of command through the manager Dermott. The next few days were great fun diving although we were the only ones on a boat one day with a dive master who went to several locations (the German Lighthouse was a fun hike and the stone money caves were interesting) that he said he hadn’t gone to in over 5 years. I was shocked. Apparently Sam’s only went there when they were working hard to provide service for their customers. Now the cattle boat mentality prevails.

I wouldn’t say that the dive masters were inexperienced, but they were very comfortable with going to only a handful of dive sites. I was disappointed that folks appeared not to know very much about tide and current timing for Blue Corner and Peleliu. It was all schedule and timing of driving the boat rather than tailoring to the dive sites or the diver’s abilities. Of the 4 times I went to Blue Corner, the tide and currents were decent only once allowing us to see big fish. I suspect this was due to the fact that the current was 3-4 knots and there were not the usual 10 boats moored up top with awaiting divers.

On our trip to Peleliu, we encountered and upwelling of a 5-6 knots current which dispersed the group and once I hooked in, I nearly lost my mask. Fortunately I was wearing a long wetsuit, released the hook and began to surface slowly. Others wearing shorts or shorties were bleeding from the knees or arms upon their pick up.
I was also more dismayed as to the unpreparedness of other fellow divers. Some simply did not have the proper gear (i.e. no safety sausage, no light, no strobe/signaling device). Once in the boat, the divers pulled out of the swells insisted on talking about themselves and their experiences rather than assisting the captain to locate the other divers. That really irritated me. One man ditched his weights, lost his hook and after getting brought onto the boat with his wife (she was visibly shivering and shaking) ignored his wife and spent time chatting with the dive master about his experience. The man wasn’t being an intentional creep, he just didn’t recognize the signs that his wife was in need of water and was traumatized by the ordeal. To say the least the group was lucky to get back in the boat without someone getting seriously hurt. To Sam’s credit, our captain was a local Palauan with excellent boating skills.

I spent the final three days of our two week time there almost begging to go to Jellyfish lake during lunch or at least as a side visit. It was ridiculous. Finally in our final few days I resorted to persuading other members of our boat to request wreck dives. As I was leaving, the owner Sam appeared. I explained to him as to what we had experienced. He was not apologetic, behaved sheepish and was apathetic. Others who expressed their views noted that he behaved in the same way. He has lost touch with the divers and now is consumed by the operation. Sam’s Tours has become just another cattle boat operator. I’d only recommend them if you are a diver arriving for 3 days of diving, just want to do the big three dives locally and don’t care about being herded into a boat.

While I loved photographing all the creatures and cherish the time I spent diving the wrecks and walking on the islands, I will never use Sam’s again. It will be a long time before I return to Palau. There are so many other islands in the South Pacific. In the meantime emails were sent to Fish & Fins (another operator) and they too had the cattle boat generic response of ‘wreck dives are done for a week on an annual basis – otherwise they just hit the usual spots’. If I were to rate Palau diving on a scale of 1to 10, I’d rate it as a 7 or an 8. Sam Tours gets a 4 or a 5. It looks as though our next trip will be on a liveaboard despite the expense.
 
I wish I hadn't read your post. I'm headed there with a group next March. Hopefully, with the size of our group and our tour operator's savy, we can avoid the type of diving situations you found yourself in on your trip. I hate cattle boat diving and I hate being treated like a $! I'm going to contact our tour gal and ask her a few questions, and I hope I don't hear the word "Sam's" in her answers. We are going to spend a week aboard a live-a-board in Yap before we do a land based in Palau. Thanks for the report; it's going to make me dig a little deeper into my trip.
 
AD,

thanks for the report... sorry to hear about your experience... I guess I will heed my friends' suggestion that a liveaboard is really the way to enjoy Palau (despite the $$$).
 
AlaskaDiver:
<snip> In the meantime emails were sent to Fish & Fins (another operator) and they too had the cattle boat generic response of ‘wreck dives are done for a week on an annual basis – otherwise they just hit the usual spots’. If I were to rate Palau diving on a scale of 1to 10, I’d rate it as a 7 or an 8. Sam Tours gets a 4 or a 5. It looks as though our next trip will be on a liveaboard despite the expense.
They might be referring to their annual Tech Wreck Week, but the DM's there at Fish n' Fins will do their best to accommodate dive site requests, be it Wrecks or Reefs.
I've been going to Palau almost semi-annually for the past six years and have just now noticed the cattle-boat mentality of land-based dive ops over there as well. My first visit was on a Liveaboard and it was the best: 8am, you're the first group of divers to hook-in at Blue Corner & have it all to yourselves for an hour before the land-based boats arrive. . .
 
Liveaboard in Palau not really more than land based if you think of it in terms of per dive basis. 5 dives a day plus food and beer and wine for about $2500. Do the same on land, say 25 dives in a week plus dinner and hotel will be about the same....
 
Mike Veitch:
Liveaboard in Palau not really more than land based if you think of it in terms of per dive basis. 5 dives a day plus food and beer and wine for about $2500. Do the same on land, say 25 dives in a week plus dinner and hotel will be about the same....

but how many land based shops offer 5 dives a day???? I thought logistically that 2-3 per day were the most given the distance you have to travel to get to some of the good sites. But since you worked there before, I guess I can take your word... :wink: and for my future reference, which dive shop would offer this 5 dives per day?
 
Thats just the thing Pakman, if you are going to such a place you want to optimize your diving time. Why do 2 or 3 dives a day when you could do 5. But is easy to do 4 with any of the day shops, a 3 tanker plus a night dive, no problem. Lets call it $110 for 2 dives, another $40 for a third, times 6. (as we are talking 7 days) so that is $900 for 18 dives. (one day off to match liveaboard) Plus as most people tend to want to stay at PPR which is a minimum of $200 per night...another $1400 for hotel as is 7 nights. Up to $2300 now...

Sooo, you get back to land and is time to drink beers and off to dinner. Another 7 days of that... lots more money as now you have to pay for food and drinks...

Sooo

You have just paid $900 for dives, $1400 for hotel, plus whatever for food and drinks for one week.

$2300 plus....for 18 dives

Aggressor is $2500 for 24 dives plus jellyfish lake...

Ok, must admit i am making up day rates as this is just day rate, i have no idea what package prices are for Palau.

But, liveaboard is cheaper on a per dive basis.. and a heck of a lot more convenient as well
 
I have been to Sam's four times in the past couple years and my impression has been that it is slipping a little. I have always had good experiences but this last time I did make certain requests when I booked because I did not want to leave it to chance.
As far as the captains kicking back and "chewing beetle nut" once they get you in the water.....thats where my air share with a long hose (with reserve air saved) on drifts due to the concern about aborting a dive early comes from...I have had a few lectures about that on this board from people reciting the rules. I am just trying to make the point that in some places, it is best to read the situation (big current and a snoozing captain) and use your head regarding how to dive in a given situation. if you are a very flexible diver, it helps. Also, I have found at Sam's that it helps to make requests in advance. Of course conditions dictate what is optimal and the captains matter as much as the dive guides. My jokes about tipping the captains early in the trip were actually serious. I could see they were the ones that mattered.
By all means order your own lunches the night before somewhere else and take it along. It sounds like you were on a crowded boat with some real winners. I like most people, even the quirky ones for the entertainment value, but I grant you it can be a long day out there sometimes. Sometimes being able to tune people out is as handy of a skill as being polite.
I can see how certain types of divers (ones with adamant principles about "safe diving") could decompensate in places like this (not just Sam's).
People often say they tip at the end of the week. I have found it really helps to tip up front, early on. Even though I don't tip that much, giving the captain or DM some cash early on gets their attention and has an effect on how your week goes.
Pelelui is an advanced dive much of the time. Too many people go so that they can say they did it, and don't have the skills to handle it safely. I have passed that one before due to rough conditions and my desire to live some more of my life.
I have used a couple other operators for parts of a few trips and still like Sam's maybe because it is familiar and I have figured out how to get what I want.
Don't be worried about changing boats, if you are really made nuts by someone. The advantage of not being on a liveaboard is you can part company at the end of the day. I hear so many wonderful things about them, but I really like doing my own thing and not being on a program.
Sorry your trip did not go better, be sure to write a letter.
 
catherine96821:
I have been to Sam's four times in the past couple years and my impression has been that it is slipping a little. I have always had good experiences but this last time I did make certain requests when I booked because I did not want to leave it to chance.
As far as the captains kicking back and "chewing beetle nut" once they get you in the water.....thats where my air share with a long hose (with reserve air saved) on drifts due to the concern about aborting a dive early comes from...I have had a few lectures about that on this board from people reciting the rules. I am just trying to make the point that in some places, it is best to read the situation (big current and a snoozing captain) and use your head regarding how to dive in a given situation. if you are a very flexible diver, it helps. Also, I have found at Sam's that it helps to make requests in advance. Of course conditions dictate what is optimal and the captains matter as much as the dive guides. My jokes about tipping the captains early in the trip were actually serious. I could see they were the ones that mattered.
By all means order your own lunches the night before somewhere else and take it along. It sounds like you were on a crowded boat with some real winners. I like most people, even the quirky ones for the entertainment value, but I grant you it can be a long day out there sometimes. Sometimes being able to tune people out is as handy of a skill as being polite.
I can see how certain types of divers (ones with adamant principles about "safe diving") could decompensate in places like this (not just Sam's).
People often say they tip at the end of the week. I have found it really helps to tip up front, early on. Even though I don't tip that much, giving the captain or DM some cash early on gets their attention and has an effect on how your week goes.
Pelelui is an advanced dive much of the time. Too many people go so that they can say they did it, and don't have the skills to handle it safely. I have passed that one before due to rough conditions and my desire to live some more of my life.
I have used a couple other operators for parts of a few trips and still like Sam's maybe because it is familiar and I have figured out how to get what I want.
Don't be worried about changing boats, if you are really made nuts by someone. The advantage of not being on a liveaboard is you can part company at the end of the day. I hear so many wonderful things about them, but I really like doing my own thing and not being on a program.
Sorry your trip did not go better, be sure to write a letter.

I know we have talked in the past about Neco Marine, so how would you compare Sams to Neco?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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