Trim problem - high pressure steel 80 tank

[minamin13]

I just bought new high-pressure 80 steel tanks (PST is the manufacturer). When I use them, my feet want to float up and it's incredibly annoying and air consuming. (This is opposite of what happened with aluminum 80 tanks -- my head kept popping up). My boyfriend also tried my tank a couple of times, and he encountered the same problem -- so it's not a "female" issue as far as I can see it. I'm fairly fit with below average fat composition for women. However I do have some fat deposits on my thighs and butt. I was wondering if anyone else out there has encountered the same problem, and what they've done to counter it.

This is what I've tried so far:
(1) Moved the tank as close to my feet as possible. However, there is only so far I can move the tank down before one of my tank straps doesn't hold the cylindrical portion of the tank. I own a Zeagle Ranger BCD -- is there a way that I can move the tank straps down on the jacket?
(2) Trim weights. I hated this configuration. Whenever I wanted to go vertical in the water, I kept rotating onto my back.
(3) Ankle weights. I put some 3 lb ankle weights on my ankles. That was overkill. But I want to avoid the use of ankle weights because it looks stupid. Besides they make kicking perceptibly more tiring on long surface swims.

Some other things I will try:
(1) Use of lighter ankle weights.
(2) More negatively buoyant fins. I own Apollos right now, but I was just given some cheap Scubapro jet fins.
(3) If I'm desperate, I may want to customize my wetsuit for some weight pockets on my hips.
(4) Move my tank straps on my BCD closer to my feet.
(5) Wear my BCD weight pockets over my hips.

Any other suggestions?

 

[Hoosier]

Here.

Move your cam band up to the highest point on the tank. And put two trim weights on each side of lower part of tank by using SS clamps or on the lower cam band. You won't have any problem even in a vertical position.

 

[Captain CaveMan]

I would try your #4 +5 on your things I will Try list. They make different size Ankle weights. I have 2lb that I do not use but I have them as back up for some one needs them. When my wife dives shes in the heads up position so I use them on the neck of the tank to help her trim.

 

[spectrum]

I dive that came cylinder with a Sherwood Avid which is also a dual camband BC. I only have about 1-1/2 inches of vertical freedom so I can pictire your situation. I had heavy feet and two 3LB trim weights mad a huge difference. You have the opposite problem

1. Mount the cyinder with the top of the top camband just before the cylinder crown. I think you figured that out already.
2. If there is room below your bottom camband get an extra camband and mount some of your existing weight there but only if that gets it lower on your body than your existing location. If you mount them so they are at like 7:00 and 5:00 they won't make you turtle.
3. Where is your primnary weight. If it's all in BC ditchables consider getting a belt.
4. If that does not work for you then get a DUI Weight &Trim 2 harness. That will let you carry your weight down where it needs to be. My wife had floaty feet and it did wonders for her. She dive HP steel 100s. With high confidence I can say that this will work for you.

The negative fins are an obvious "first to try" item now that you have them.

Whille I don't want to start an ankle weight hijack I agree that they are a solution of last resort. It's mass in reciprocating motion any way you look at it.

That's a sweet cylinder and once you configure to it you will be very happy. If not send it to me I can use a 5th.

Pete

 

[paulwlee]

One thing that might help a little is wearing a really thick hood. (It also has the nice side benefit of making you warmer.) Otter Bay Wetsuits in Monterey makes a 12mm hood.
I wear a 10mm one and love it!

 

[Rick Murchison]

... I want to avoid the use of ankle weights because it looks stupid ...

Well, my first suggestion is to get rid of this "pretty before physics" business.
What's the minimum weight you need to achieve neutral buoyancy with your new tank? It should be about 10# less than with an AL 80. First you want to work with this weight and no more - if you've positioned that weight as far towards your feet and as far away from your steel tank as you can (towards your belly - to act as a counterweight to the steel tank) and you're still "light in the feet", then the most efficient way to get the most rotational effect with the least additional weight is with jets & ankle weights.
If you haven't tried a weight harness like the DUI yet (lets you position the weights lower than a belt) then try one, you'll love it.
Rick

 

[minamin13]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I just lowered one of my tank bands on my Zeagle Ranger by 2.5 inches. I have the option of lowering it 5 inches total if I want. This should give me enough vertical play with my tank.

As for the DUI harness, I will definitely consider it, but I would like to see where I get just by playing around with the tank position.

As for the weight, I dropped 6 lbs from where I was with aluminum. I feel my weight is currently about right. I'm barely able to descend without helping it along a bit.

As for the ankle weights. I'm certainly not one to care about appearances. But from a pure physics standpoint, they suck for kicking. They are unaesthetic because they aren't the best solution.

As for the hood, I've been considering a thicker hood from Otter Bay. I currently wear a 5 mm hood/vest underneath my 7mm full wetsuit and I feel pretty warm. I can only imagine what a 12 mm hood/vest combo would do for me.