Travel Report - Turks & Caicos

[jrz1]

Just got back from Provo in T&C. Diving was great despite reduced visibility due to lots of plankton floating around - perhaps not as bad in the first quarter. Stayed at Ocean Club West which was very nice, but if I had to do it over again, I'd stay a block off the beach at the Comfort Suites and save a ton of $$. You can walk to the beach or any of the other restaurants no problem. Who spends time in their room anyway?

First dive was with Art Pickering's Provo Turtle Divers. People should know that this business has changned hands in the last 12-24 months and is no longer run by Art (who is a T&C legend). The diving with PTD was fine, but nothing special. Boat was so so and their dive operations were on the opposite side of the island from the boat so you had to make a bit of a pain in the tail trip in the AM before you could get out. The new owners were very nice, but I think their relative inexperience in operating the business shows through. I say this not through speculation but experience.

I dove one day with PTD and the other 4 days with Caicos Adventures. Frankly, when I was reviewing some of the T&C magazines on the flight down, I saw several ads for CA. I was scared. The operations were owned/run by a French guy with the nick name "Fi Fi". Get real. But in reality, Fi Fi ran a much better operation than PTD which had been pretty highly touted in the press. Fi Fi's boat was nicer (a big, quiet catamaran with a great ride), his equipment was nicer and he showed a better knowledge of the best locations - we typically anchored instead of using the moorings that most of the other operations tied up to. As a result, we got to see some really pristine sites. Fi Fi's help was also a bit better (not much). The dive masters were very friendly and helpful. On PTD's boat, they didn't even reset your gear between dives. I would say CA's dive masters didn't go out of their way to point out various underwater attractions but they were good nonetheless.

In terms of the diving, I think it was pretty darn good. Lots of great coral formations - as good as Honduras or Little Cayman. Not so many big grouper, but we did see a good number of large spotted eagle rays, plenty of sharks and lots of sting ray. Only a few turtles. While on the boat, we also saw a few whales (pilot?) and dolphin off in the distance taking in some air.

It was really a great trip and I wouldn't hesitate to go back. When I do, I will call up Fi Fi at Caico's Adventures. It was a really good operation. Only issue I would see is that during peak season, they probably load up the catamaran with 25-30 people which could be kind of crammed. Fi Fi is highly focused on people's satisfaction though and I think you all would like it.

Let me know if you have questions.

Jim

 

[drbill]

Jim-

You say

we typically anchored instead of using the moorings that most of the other operations tied up to. As a result, we got to see some really pristine sites.

I hope the anchoring was done carefully or those pristine sites may deteriorate over time. Moorings are usually there for a reason- to minimize impact of vessels on the reef.

Dr. Bill

 

[dtdiver]

i was on provo last year and there were NO moorings at all
i was aghast and the dive master said the government had them removed
i dove at west caicos the anchor was dropped in the middle of an eel garden and about 3 feet from a 4-5 foot fan. i'm sure that fan won't be there now!
the t+c government seems to care only about preserving their own control on real estate and $$.

even from 5 years ago the island and the reefs have deteriorated.

there was a reef called "white house reef"
it is an easy snorkel off the shore.
5 years ago, it was gorgeous!! pipe fish, fans. in the surf the amberkjacks would peck at your mask.

now there's a large condo right there, the reef is "roped off" with bouys but there were no signs warning people to stay out. there were kids and adults standing on the coral, obviously that reef is dead.

compare this with grand cayman.
the government places anchors, much of the reef has been placed in a park. (although the locals still can fish in it and use the dive moorings) they are creating an artificial reef park.

but, really t+c's governmental mentality toward the environment is third world. the dive ops are held captive and those pristine reefs will suffer.

but it's still a beautiful island.

dt
oh yes, no grouper cause there i don't think there are any limits to local fisherman, and they are good at decimating large fish populations

 

[Tim Ingersoll]

Thanks for the trip report. You have confirmed what people have been saying about Provo diving for years. Grand Turk in January and Provo in February. Can't wait!!

 

[puffer]

Since you just gotback I was wondering if you or any one would be able to give me some information about weather conditions and temperatures. I will be going to T&C in a week for a much needed vacation. What was the temperature like on shore and under the water?Also what was the visability like ? I'v been worried about a hurricane hitting during my vacation as this is hurricane season. Any thoughts?

 

[jrz1]

Re: Moorings

Yes you are correct, there were fewer here than many other places I've been, but in each of the locations we went, there was usually at least 1 or 2. In addition, when were were out at French Key, there was a government boat there placing more. Our captain was very careful to place the anchor in the sand. I'm amazed that such a small anchor held the boat but the seas were pretty calm.

Re: Weather

Risky time of year to go given hurricaine activity (Isabel looks pretty natsty). We got lucky the week of 8/30-9/6. It was very sunny and HOT!. Occasional rain but it usually doesn't last long.

Re: Water

Visibility was obscured in part by plankton (?). was around 80-100' I'd guess. Water was warm. I dove easily without a suit and I usually get cold.

Good luck with the Hurricaine! While we were there, many said T&C usually doesn't get hit bad. Either luck or something to do with the Dominican Rep. being just south and weakening any storms that pass over it. Not sure if there's any truth to their statements.