Too Many To Choose From

[halocline]

Why anyone would use a Scubapro Mk2/R190 other than with a stripped down second stage to blow off parts is beyond the realms of progression.

It might surprise you to know that the SP M2/R190 is without a doubt one of the most widely used and copied single hose regulator designs in history. So obviously some people disagree with your statement.

 

[herbdb]

Definitely get something nitrox compatible and if you are getting a computer in the console it should be nitrox capable. You will want to dive nitrox at some time.

For example the Aeris XR1 you see discounted is not nitrox capable while the XR1 NX is capable.

 

[herbdb]

Sorry duplicate post

 

[Zen1300]

Which then raises the question of cost and current need vs potential future need.

If I cannot afford to get the nitric capable computer do I wait and dive without one or get the non-nitrox-capable knowing I csm dive with it for a year or so?

Definitely get something nitrox compatible and if you are getting a computer in the console it should be nitrox capable. You will want to dive nitrox at some time.

For example the Aeris XR1 you see discounted is not nitrox capable while the XR1 NX is capable.

 

[herbdb]

Good question. I dove my first year + without a computer. This was primarily quarry diving using aluminum 80 rental tanks. For this the tables worked just fine. My high air usage (SAC) rate guaranteed that I would not have any real issues. I used the tables to plan my dives and quickly realized that I did not have enough air to get into trouble at the depths I was diving.

For no DECO diving, a watch to capture your bottom time and to make sure you can accomplish your safety stop is adequate most of the time. If you are going to dive deeper, multi-level dives then the computer will keep you from being forced to be ultra conservative like the tables will do.

If you keep track of your max depth (most depth gauges have a resettable pointer to do this) and times, the tables work for most of our recreational diving. Preplanning and logging times is the key to safe table use.

A computer just automates the process and makes it more foolproof. The difference in the two computers I used in my example is about $160, I would wait unless my diving gave me an overriding reason for having a computer.

 

[diver 85]

Find someone(FACE TO FACE) you can trust & do what he/she recommends...----hey, you gotta start somewhere...

 

[Bubbletrubble]

Which then raises the question of cost and current need vs potential future need.

If I cannot afford to get the nitric capable computer do I wait and dive without one or get the non-nitrox-capable knowing I csm dive with it for a year or so?

Dive computers are a luxury purchase. You certainly don't need a computer to dive. I'd recommend purchasing all of the necessary equipment first.

As for wading through all of the various brands and models of regulators, I'd recommend joining a local dive club. Expand your circle of dive buddies. Ask them what they like about their gear. Have them show you. Most will be willing to let you take the gear out for a test-dive...for free.

FYI, you realize that you're driving distance from Scubatoys, right?

 

[Akimbo]

See what your preferred dive shop invests in for their rental fleet. It speaks volumes and is probably less expensive than most regulators on the market. This was a response to a little different question, but the principals apply.

More definition is required. I will guess shallower than 328'/100 Meters, above freezing, and a 300 Bar DIN connection is a reasonable criterion.

I personally have not seen a mediocre performing regulator (excluding combo octo/BC fillers) in decades — not saying there are aren't any, I just have not had the misfortune in a long time. I suggest the following procedure:

Cut 1: The two best sources I can think of to answer your question are dive shop rental fleets and large regulator repair companies. Dive shops can't afford gear that doesn't withstand far more abuse than good sense allows. Some shops may try to intimidate ill-informed customers into buying the most expensive regulator, but that is not the one that they invest in or are numerically more likely to be sued over. Large regulator repair shops see a lot of products over long periods with rare failures. I my experience, bad regulators are far more likely to be unreliable or difficult to repair than exhibit poor breathing characteristics.

Cut 2: Scratch models that are not available with a 300 Bar DIN option. Most regulators today are so they can sell in other markets.

Cut 3: It is unlikely to have made it past Cut 1, but eliminate regulators that are very new to the market or are not produced in the large numbers. The idea is to let the real world prove all the different aspects that make a good purchase rather than some dork with a financial incentive or a desire to justify a poorly researched purchase.

Cut 4: Examine what's left to see if personal ergonomic preferences emerge. Taking note of specific feature complaints expressed by friends and on forums like this can help you determine what might be important or annoying to you. Indulge country of origin biases at this point if you are inclined.

Cut 5: Rent one or more remaining candidates to make sure things like hose lengths work, bubbles don't annoy you, or the first stage doesn't interfere with gear you already own and like.

Cut 6: All things being equal, there is nothing wrong with choosing the lowest cost regulator from the list. The reason is not to be cheap (as in my case), but your preferences may evolve and you shouldn't be reluctant to upgrade because you spent too darn much.

Let us know how you vote with your money and why.

 

[Zen1300]

Alright so I think I understand the most important factor in purchasing as regulator - patience.

I think I need to be patient and rent a few from local shops. I've heard (read) a couple times on here that a good deal on something that is not right, is not a good deal. I'll keep that to heart.

Good deals occur all the time. In fact, I know my local LDS will be refreshing their rental fleet in December, which may make for good deals.

I've got a BC, weights, fins, mask, snorkel (hate snorkels), and wetsuit.

I agree that for the time being I will likely be diving in quarries and such and will not require a computer. My LDS has the opposite view and states that I NEED a computer.

There are plenty of shops in the area. I've noticed some are high priced and some have better deals, but for the most part the prices are pretty even across the playing field.

 

[hudson]

The number one rule is don't spend too much money on a regulator. I wouldn't rent anything either - it's a waste of money and time using equipment that's possibly in crappy maintenance condition or breathes unnecessarily hard while you could have much better experience if you went out and bought your own. Just don't buy something you can't get serviced locally.

Fact is, until you have several (hundred?) dives under your belt and have developed certain preferences, there is very little to differentiate one regulator from another regardless of price. (one exception is cold-water tolerance but I don't think you are concerned about that). Otherwise a lot of advertised feature sets are gimmicks, and the rest are either minor conveniences (e.g cracking adjustment) or issues that'll take some time to develop an appreciation for (e.g. piston vs diaphragm)

IMHO, it's ridiculous to shell out $800+ for a set when there are deals like this around for what is high quality equipment:

Edge Epic Balanced Regulator Set w/Octopus and Bag

Another bonus is if you decide to work on your regs in the future (easy for someone mechanically inclined), parts are available (also holds true for Zeagle and Dive Rite)

I'm a Scubapro user myself... I just don't see the need to shell out the dough for premium priced stuff when they aren't really any better, especially for a new diver.