Did anyone mention that before rolling, look at your SPG guage and take a couple of fast breaths off of your reg. Does the needle move? If so, your tank isn't open. You don't want to go in like that.
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It does not apply only to wrecks but in general as well, if you get entangled in something you cant cut a metal connection.
Some wrecks have open bowls (not sure if tha'ts the correct word) that you can get in with out wreck qualification but at the end of the day there are still metal rods etc sticking out which do pose an entanglement risk if you dont pay attention.
I think this should be taught since day 1 of OW - you cant cut a metal connection.
You wouldn't have need that duct tape if you had lycra dive socks
But yes, duct tape handy to have no matter where you go or what you are doing. Don't need to take your whole big roll, just rewind some neatly on a pencil and toss it in your dop or first aid kit.
Both work well. I have also used liquid bandaid. Before my last dive trip I accidentally kicked my scale with my pinky toe and it split open like a banana. I glued it all shut to keep out any nasties. It holds for a few days before the edges start lifting.
This was a 'comedy or errors' sort of thing. First I forgot my booties, so I had to rent fins. I had my lycra socks but still got a blister because I was using fins that really needed boots (they didn't have regular full foot fins but these fit ok). That's when I realized I hadn't brought my antibiotic ointment or bandaids I normally bring!! I ended up taping the toe and wearing a pair of thick athletic socks AND my lycra socks - and that worked well.
I'm already packing for our next trip - and my boots are in the bag - along with TWO pair of lycra socks!!
The only problem I see with that is that the line on spool attached to the DSMB is very thin. If some current picks up at the surface it could be hard to stay with your DSMB and you could get separated from it.
I use mountain climbing carabiners to connect and carry most items. You can use them to connect yourself to the line. If you are tying off to something on the bottom you can connect with the carabiner so the line will not part due to wear. In a current when you are tied off to a weight belt you will be pulled off your location but it will keep you reasonably close to where you want to be.
With 1/4” or smaller line you can use 2 carabiners as a makeshift block and tackle. I would suggest double tackle or less as too many turns will bind up.
powdered graphite or the impregnated sprays?Some people (me, for example) believe the use of a fastener with the sort of spring-loaded gate that deflects inward is hazardous. This includes 'biners, unless they are safety carabiners with a threaded collar that locks the gate, and snaps other than bolt snaps. The reason is that running to line can operate the gate and the line can become trapped inside the fastener, causing entanglement. (I know someone who even files the tab on the bolt snaps so fishing line won't snag on it on the outside.)
I personally am a big fan of bolt snaps. My tip is to lubricate them with graphite. It does not accumulate grit, and lasts a season or so. I know some people use silicone. Paraffin would likely work (as some old-timers did with bicycle chains), too. I use brass, which is cheaper, but many prefer SS despite the extra cost.