The new Freedom Contour - The Rolex of backplates.

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I never got certified through VIDA (Virtual Internet Diving Association),
so I have to be careful what I say. I’m no internet expert.

I’m a Scubaboard Instructor for GUIE. You’re OK and good to go!

EFDF9A15-3E12-4A1F-9E87-C530A8F64402.jpeg
 
Last edited:
@Eric Sedletzky

For a lower weight plate, I see you have the aluminum cousin however I was wondering if you would have laser/jet cuts instead in your stainless plate. Dive rite has a plate called the XT lite which is stainless but has cutouts all over that allow the plate to come out at half the weight of the full steel one. Just a thought since you are contemplating getting these plates waterjet cut anyway. Im down for a 3lb-ish freedom plate for my tropical dives.
 
@Eric Sedletzky

For a lower weight plate, I see you have the aluminum cousin however I was wondering if you would have laser/jet cuts instead in your stainless plate. Dive rite has a plate called the XT lite which is stainless but has cutouts all over that allow the plate to come out at half the weight of the full steel one. Just a thought since you are contemplating getting these plates waterjet cut anyway. Im down for a 3lb-ish freedom plate for my tropical dives.
I wouldn’t do a skeletonized plate but I would consider using slightly thinner material like 16 or 12 GA stainless. The way the contour is formed it is quite strong and lends itself well to using thinner materials.
Aluminum by the way has a huge weight swing when it hits the water. 2 lbs of aluminum on land doesn’t equal 2 lbs underwater, it almost goes neutral. That’s why aluminum is kind of a crappy material for dive products. It also corrodes to some degree and doesn’t like other metals around it and it’s soft. But for right now it’s a necessary evil.
 
I wouldn’t do a skeletonized plate but I would consider using slightly thinner material like 16 or 12 GA stainless. The way the contour is formed it is quite strong and lends itself well to using thinner materials.
Aluminum by the way has a huge weight swing when it hits the water. 2 lbs of aluminum on land doesn’t equal 2 lbs underwater, it almost goes neutral. That’s why aluminum is kind of a crappy material for dive products. It also corrodes to some degree and doesn’t like other metals around it and it’s soft. But for right now it’s a necessary evil.

I agree, not a big fan of aluminum. Any chance you can make me a medium plate in the thinner gauge steel? Im really trying to save as much weight as possible without sacrificing the shape.
 
There’s always various types of anodizing or cerakote to offer some protection to aluminum.
 
I agree, not a big fan of aluminum. Any chance you can make me a medium plate in the thinner gauge steel? Im really trying to save as much weight as possible without sacrificing the shape.
I’m going to look into it and maybe hand cut one and shape it up. I’d want to make absoluttly sure that it would hold up well and not flex too much. I’ve never used anything thinner than 11GA (all current plates are 10GA) but 14 or 16 may hold promise, and it would be usable balast, not just suitcase weight with no usable ballast underwater like aluminum.
Aluminum is also hell to tool, it clogs all my burr bits and files.
 
I’m going to look into it and maybe hand cut one and shape it up. I’d want to make absoluttly sure that it would hold up well and not flex too much. I’ve never used anything thinner than 11GA (all current plates are 10GA) but 14 or 16 may hold promise, and it would be usable balast, not just suitcase weight with no usable ballast underwater like aluminum.
Aluminum is also hell to tool, it clogs all my burr bits and files.

Aluminum is also more susceptible to fatigue during the forming process. I am (and I am sure many others will be) interested in the results of your experiment with the lighter gauge stainless. I assume the plate will be quite rigid after it takes on the final Freedom Contour shape.
 
...//... Aluminum is also hell to tool, it clogs all my burr bits and files.
BTDT. So an old hardened machinist in my group let me in on the secret.

Aluminum alloys are all over the map. Weirdest collection of alloys on earth. You can't just say 'aluminum' unless you are talking about the element. The cheap alloys are an enormous bitch to machine.

Search on aluminum jig plate. It is the sweetest machining material on earth. Call a supplier and tell them your requirements. They will likely set you on to something similar that you will love.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom