lucca brassi
Contributor
Me....Thanks God of course I'm not from Texas , but Halcyon is from Florida
The life-cycle of a diving knife
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logandzwon
Registered
My experience the life-cycle of cutting tools has been; buy it, get used to it, attach it to my gear, go dive, surface, realize I lost my cutting tool, start over again at "buy it."
carlo1776
New
I still have an old Wenoka 7782. It's sharp enough to cut line and rope but not needed for shaving The sheath that came with it was crap so I made one out of Kydex with a Tek Lok attachment. It can be attached to a BCD shoulder strap vertically or a weight belt vertically or horizontally. The knife is locked securely by the kydex and is handy enough to unsheathe and re-sheathe without stabbing yourself or the BCD.
I have learned that nearly everything that goes in the ocean is a consumable. I do my best to avoid being included in that list but my expiration date is always lurking.
Rred
Contributor
Stainless steel is steel that stains LESS than carbon steel. It is not impervious to rust no matter who said so. Once you get into the exact alloy of a blade, you can find out why some are terribly more expensive, or harder to sharpen, or keep a good edge.
To sharpen easily, you need soft steel, which won't keep a good edge. There are compromises, like good chef's knives, which keep a fairly good edge but are easy to keep sharp--if you sharpen them after every use to maintain them. And if the metal is very hard, you can always take them to a kitchen or restaurant supply and for about $2 they'll sharpen it on a proper wheel, to a razor edge if you ask for it.
I was taught that a dull knife is the most dangerous kind, because with a dull edge you will push harder, and that's when you slip and get cut. I prefer an edge that simply cuts on contact, with no forcing. My "genuine dive knife" is a 440C steel if I remember correctly. Keeps a good edge and is very resistant to rust, just the crack by the tang tries to rust a little. 440C has been replaced by a variety of new alloys since then, but that starts to get into complicated arguments about what's best, and they won't be cheap.
I use a spare kitchen paring knife when boating, in a simple belt sheath made by stitching up some 2" nylon webbing. A top brand, a good name, and it never gets used for cutting lunch, just for line. I can touch it to an old hard manila dock line and the line simply parts at the touch--because the edge is kept that sharp. Which makes it very safe to use, despite what Pedro's badly miseducated monster said about that.
To sharpen easily, you need soft steel, which won't keep a good edge. There are compromises, like good chef's knives, which keep a fairly good edge but are easy to keep sharp--if you sharpen them after every use to maintain them. And if the metal is very hard, you can always take them to a kitchen or restaurant supply and for about $2 they'll sharpen it on a proper wheel, to a razor edge if you ask for it.
I was taught that a dull knife is the most dangerous kind, because with a dull edge you will push harder, and that's when you slip and get cut. I prefer an edge that simply cuts on contact, with no forcing. My "genuine dive knife" is a 440C steel if I remember correctly. Keeps a good edge and is very resistant to rust, just the crack by the tang tries to rust a little. 440C has been replaced by a variety of new alloys since then, but that starts to get into complicated arguments about what's best, and they won't be cheap.
I use a spare kitchen paring knife when boating, in a simple belt sheath made by stitching up some 2" nylon webbing. A top brand, a good name, and it never gets used for cutting lunch, just for line. I can touch it to an old hard manila dock line and the line simply parts at the touch--because the edge is kept that sharp. Which makes it very safe to use, despite what Pedro's badly miseducated monster said about that.
covediver
Contributor
In California we used it mostly to pry rock scallops when not carrying an ab iron oh so many years ago. My instructor for basic scuba (Like I said, oh so many years ago) advised a blunt tip knife, since after a few times prying, a pointy tip would be converted to a blunt tip as the tip broke off
Rred
Contributor
A blunt tip can be safer between people, but when I take flatfish (flounder) by knife, I prefer a point on it, for a fast kill. Putting a good sharp knife through a fish and into a sandy bottom is not great for the blade edge though.
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