Monday
The dawn broke bright and clear. The winds were still pretty stiff so it was decided to go to the lee of Angel Rock. Angel rock is an amazing formation that does resemble a white angel. Of course, once you realize that the white is nothing but bird poo, the romance dies a bit! We headed out on the Zodiacs being careful to use Angel Rock as a wind break. We splashed in 40 ftof water and it was amazing. There were so many fish around this point and it simply jutted up from the depths. You could spend any number of dives here at varying depths and still not explore it all. Unfortunately, there was a lot of sand and dust in the water. It didn't stop you from enjoying the fish, but it made photography very challenging. You had to get up close to get a really clear shot and my Intova was not up to the task. It was here that I first saw the sponge crab, which is a variation of a hermit crab, but instead of a hard shell, it uses a sponge.
I also got my first taste of a cave created by shear forces rather than solution. At about 50 ft, there is a small crack in the base of Angel Rock. I was able to slip part way in and look into a a straight lined hallway going straight down. The vis in here was very clear, but without the proper equipment and a buddy, I simply backed out and continued the dive outside. No need to expose myself to needless risk. Soon enough the dive was over and we headed up to the zodiacs.
Our second dive that day was along theside of the inlet where we had stayed the night. This is like a lotof shallow dives I have been on. You're trying to have an open mind going in, but 20 ft just doesn't seem to grab your attention. Well,the fish and the critters took care of that once we got into the water. Again, for not having hard corals growing here, I was amazed at the life I encountered. At one point I thought we had an eclipse only to find a huge bait ball just above my head blocking the sun. Two thumbs way up for this dive.
Lunch was an amazing Mexican treat ofmy favorite: shrimp! Yum! I was also introduced to Hibiscus Tea. Now, if you are a Tea lover as I am, you know that real tea only comes from one plant on earth. Make that two now. This red zingy tea was excellent and became a favorite of mine iced down. They had started moving the boat as we sat for lunch.
I tried to get more pictures of the Catholic shrine, but we were just too far away. Instead I went over my gear and made sure my tank was filled and that I had everything. I also took some time to really go over my camera. I was getting a dark shadow in all of my pictures and this just wouldn't do. After further inspection, I determined that the housing is the culprit. It's partially blocking the flash from the camera and causing that shadow. Not much to do but to take bigger pictures and crop or shoot without a flash and try to correct colors via the PC. It was my first major trip with my Memory Kick and while I was unhappy with the camera, I was incredibly happy with the Memory Kick. Sorting the few pictures that turned out was effortless, and I could even correct the orientation and do some cropping. Other than that, I was destined to spend a lot of time trying to correct pictures that were simply horrible even for me.
We steamed for a short while and saw Sea Lions on the shore. A LOT of sea lions on the shore. We don't have those in Florida, so I was very happy that we were going to dive with them. Since this was a very new experience for me, I listened intently to our debriefing. Don't point, don't dominate and if a bull starts swimming at you making grunts, consider that your invitation to back up considerably or to just leave. Only, don't turn your back on the bull. These are truly wild animals and you don't want to turn your back on them at all. I figured that avoiding the situation altogether was the best solution and that I would give them a large berth. The plan was to plop in the water and swim the 100 ft towards shore, dropping down about 50 ft out to a max depth of 60 ft. I took a bearing on my compass and eased my way in, commando style.
I first settled on the bottom to see what was the attraction for this pod of Sea Lions in this area. The mystery was solved when I saw Scallops galore as well as evidence of spiny lobster and a number of octopi. I was checking out some fish atabout 20 ft when the first bogie dive bombed in front of me. Holy Schneikies! They are PDQuick! First the one dove in around me, and with the brief still fresh in my mind, I kept my hands tucked in and didn't make any sudden movements. However, in a very sort time the pup was joined by a dozen or so more and some of them were rather big. Frankly, I don't think that I could intimidate them one whit, as they appeared fearless. Down they would come, swim up to me and pause for a second or so like they were posing and then they scurried out of the way. I was entranced by their playfulness, their curiosity and their gentle puppy like faces.
A flurry of furry activity grabbed my attention once more, and I found Bear with his video camera about fifteen feet in front of him sitting in the rocks. How cool! He was getting some great pics of these brazen Sea Lions coming up and trying to grab his video set up. It was far too large for any of them to handle though, so he wasn't worried. We had a nice sign conversation about the dive and I enjoyed Bear's company. Scott (Bear) is a rarity among divers. He simply has no ego. He doesn't feel a need to prove anything, but he still has simply perfect formand situational awareness. You can see his smile through his regulator too. What a great dive buddy!
Well, watching pinipeds was fun but I wanted to explore more of the surrounding area. I bid Scott adieu and headed along the ledge to where I had first arrived. There was a boulder a little further out that merited further investigation. How cool! I found another crab that had a sponge for a body. Unlike Florida, the rocks and boulders are flat and planar with angular corners from what was obviously a shearing event. Everything had straight lines and wile there was some marine growth, they were mostly gorgonians and sea fans with no hard corals at all. However,there were a TON of sea stars here as everywhere else. I think that the Sea of Cortez was in competition with the night sky for the number of stars it displayed! I kept swimming further out along the bottom to just under the boat and found that one of the others had joined me. The bottom was flat white mud with a TON of scallops all over. I picked a few up for our dinner and as I did down came a pairof sea lions. Hey! I was at 70 ft and the Sea Lions were checking me out! Too funny. One did a barrel roll and snatched a scallop rightout of my hand. I quickly dropped the other. I didn't need them to miss and bite me instead by accident. They played with the scallop for a few moments and loved it when it tried to swim away. Soon, it came drifting back down to the mud. My buddy and I did a 5 minute safety stop with all the entertainment two Sea Lions could provide and we surfaced just behind the boat.
Captain LoLo piloted The Rocio del Marto a wonderfully secluded bay. The blue waters made a wonderful contrast against the ochre and tan desert mountains. A few went on a night dive there, but I was pretty exhausted after our regular dives. That night we supped on fresh fish caught by the crew. Dora, kept bringing this white drink out that she called Horchata. I had first thought it was milk and that putting ice in it must be a Mexican custom. WHOA! While I thought the Hibiscus Tea was great, this was the nectar of the Gods. I have a new favorite drink! If you haven't had Horchata, it's a rice based drink and is available in a few ways. Next time you are in a Mexican restaurant worth it's tortillas, ask for a glass... better make it two.