Tech1: Ascent Drills

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

lamont

Contributor
Messages
7,562
Reaction score
648
Location
Seattle, WA
This goes along with my previous post on failure combinatorics. What do you need to be thinking about during an ascent?

First thing is that you'll probably lose 3 posts. The failures may be what cause you to thumb the dive, blow a bag and ascend, or they may occur on the ascent. But the worst that happens is that 3 posts are gone. Usually, one diver OOG and another diver without a post. The fastest way to setup an ascent drill is to drop down (doing 1 minute stops every 10 feet on the ascent for practice) and then *bam*, *bam* get an OOG and a valve failure. Not terribly realistic, but it gets the team down to minimum resources and forces an immediate ascent.

After dealing with the failures, you need to get a bag shot if you do not have an upline. The least task loaded person (probably the diver not involved in an OOG) should shoot a bag. The team ideally needs to shoot the bag on the fly as deco is being called and the team is starting the ascent. With good awareness and buoyancy control there shouldn't be any need to shoot the bag while sitting on the bottom. The bag should be shot fast enough that its not an issue by the time the gas switch comes around. While the diver shooting the bag is task loaded the other divers (probably the OOG donator) needs to be calling deco. Someone always needs to be calling deco, and if you're not task loaded that person is You -- doesn't really matter what the plan was at the surface if the designated deco person is shooting the bag they'll be needing some help with calling deco...

On the ascent itself and timing deco, 1 minute stops means that you are leaving each depth 1 minute apart. 30 second slides and 30 second stops are one way of achieving this. 45 second slides and 15 seconds stops also acheive it. A 60 second slide means you keep moving as soon as you hit your stop depth and start moving. I've also been told that if you run over my 15 seconds on a stop (1:15) you can truncate the next one to 45 seconds to get back on track (obviously there's a limit to how much you can fudge things like this and not totally screw up your deco). As practice dropping down to 30 feet doing 30 second slides and 30 second stops and then ascending should take:

30 seconds to 10
30 seconds at 10
30 seconds to 20
30 seconds at 20
30 seconds to 30
30 seconds at 30
30 seconds to 20
30 seconds at 20
30 seconds to 10
30 seconds at 10
30 seconds to surface
= 5 minutes 30 seconds total dive dive

Once you get to your gas switch the diver with the most problems needs to switch first. OOG divers have the most issues, followed by unfixable manifold failures, followed by post failures. Switching needs to be quick, but precise. Pass the spool off to a diver not involved in a gas switch. After the OOG diver does a switch, the donator will need to clean up their long hose, so its better to have the other diver (probably with a valve failure) switch next. Watch the line during the gas switch in particular since it likes to find its way around manifolds (line is both crucial to our survival but completely toxic when it gets too close to our equipment -- it needs to be kept an arm's distance away).

Following that, do your stop and cleanup and get moving again.

Again, there is a limited amount of things going on during an ascent and none of it should be very surprising, all of it can be visualized beforehand -- then the occasional surprise can be adapted to.

So, in summary:

- deal with the critical failures
- keep the deco moving (be fluid on who calls it)
- establish an upline
- efficient gas switch

That is about all that is needed to exit the water and live to dive another day.
 
Thanks, lamont, this is worth study.

Want to come and do drills with us on Tuesday?
 
The bag shoot should be able to wait until at least the gas switch (70ft). Maybe get it out at 70, get it setup as you go by 60 and shoot it at 50. (do they allow pre-rigging the bag in Tech1 nowadays?)

If you are futzing with it any earlier you'll probably be too slow off the bottom.

Honestly, I found the actual ascents in Tech1 to be horrible practice for reality where you are only spending 1 min at deep stops. Everything else is longer.
 
The bag shoot should be able to wait until at least the gas switch (70ft). Maybe get it out at 70, get it setup as you go by 60 and shoot it at 50. (do they allow pre-rigging the bag in Tech1 nowadays?)

If you are futzing with it any earlier you'll probably be too slow off the bottom.

Honestly, I found the actual ascents in Tech1 to be horrible practice for reality where you are only spending 1 min at deep stops. Everything else is longer.

what we were doing was coming off the bottom at 40-50 fsw and doing 1m's to 20 with a gas switch there and 2m+2m to the surface. getting it shot while on the move from the bottom up to 20 seemed better than waiting -- and it shouldn't involve any futzing on the bottom -- e.g. you can be hauling it out of your pockets while sliding up to your next stop...

we used a pre-rigged bag and got no comments about it (i requested the team use a pre-rigged bag since i felt we'd all been through un-rigged bags in DIRF and wanted less fiddling...)
 
Good call on the pre-rigging. Maybe in FL they can keep them seperate but up here its one less double ender to drop...:)

While it may or may not be all that applicable to your practices, I found longer stops useful. I never had much of a class issue leaving the bottom or going up at a reasonable rate, but my stops were too bouncy. I figured out I was "cheating" myself and letting depth bounces get mixed up with thoughts that I should be "moving anyway."

So I started doing 2 or 3 min practice stops. 1) way more realistic 2) you have enough time at the stop to know whether you're as stable as you think you are (profile downloads are helpful too).

Early in my practicing I started in 35-40ft cause I was bad. Later I was doing a couple of ascent drills from 70ft, switching at 50ft with a bag shoot at either the 50 or 40ft stop. Then go off for a dive to smush any bubbles I formed on the bouncy ride.

Have fun!
 
Thanks, lamont, this is worth study.

Want to come and do drills with us on Tuesday?

Tuesday i think i'm getting fills, but I do need to get wet and practice more...

Oh, I think I'm going to start highly recommending double-hp100s (or lp80/lp85s) over double-130s/104s for Tech1. And if you must use double-130s to keep fill pressures in the 2500-3000 psi range and take off some lead. I had a horrible dive after a 3500 psi fill which improved on the next dive just starting with 3000 psi and dropping 3# of lead. Dynamic instability is not your friend. On the bad dive I was having problems because the full volume of my lungs was only good for about 2 fsw at 10 feet (neutral with full exhale at 8 fsw, neutral with full inhale at 12 fsw). That made me start fiddling with my inflator or have to kick up/down all the time and it was all bad that dive. Next dive I could use my lungs in a +/- 2 fsw window and stopped fiddling with the inflator and it really helped.

Oh, and for practice, the team taking tech1 needs to be able to drop down to 10 fsw without a close reference (e.g. in 30-40 fsw of water with no line) and do valve drills and s-drills as a team with +/- 3 fsw buoyancy swings, trim to +/- 20 degrees and get it done quickly. There is a definite discontinuity in the requirements for DIRF-Tech and where you need to be for Tech1, since the DIRF-Tech pass is valve drills + s-drills near the bottom in trim and with good buoyancy, but with no time constraints. Bob also wanted to see good team communication on trim (fix your buddies bad trim in real-time) and buoyancy, with light signals. And its amazing how you can think you're signaling really expressively and on the video it doesn't look like much at all...
 
Oh, and for practice, the team taking tech1 needs to be able to drop down to 10 fsw without a close reference (e.g. in 30-40 fsw of water with no line) and do valve drills and s-drills as a team with +/- 3 fsw buoyancy swings, trim to +/- 20 degrees and get it done quickly. There is a definite discontinuity in the requirements for DIRF-Tech and where you need to be for Tech1, since the DIRF-Tech pass is valve drills + s-drills near the bottom in trim and with good buoyancy, but with no time constraints.

This is one of the things that really helped us the most when we were preparing for T1. Also, doing a bunch of maskless ascent drills from different depths really helped since it seems like I had spent half the class without a mask! :wink:
 
Oh, I think I'm going to start highly recommending double-hp100s (or lp80/lp85s) over double-130s/104s for Tech1. ...

Funny, I've gone through double 95s, double 119s, double 130s and double 100s. Finally settled on double 100s. I don't need to get two recreational dives off a set of doubles (that is what single tanks are for) and figure I'll be able to get one tech 1 dive off a set of 100s fairly easily.

I love my 100s, easy to handle topside, and nice underwater, although they take a bit of time to trim out. Since I'm out of the water for a couple more weeks, you are welcome to borrow them if you'd like. I have two sets, one are PSTs and one are Worthingtons-both trim out the same.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

Back
Top Bottom