Tank Leaking Air

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debajo agua

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Messages
226
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Location
Tampa
# of dives
50 - 99
Hi,

One of my tanks has a very slow leak at the "Valve Seat" (I'm not sure what the technical name is) where the valve screws down into the tank. The tank just passed a VIP in December! What's my next step?

TIA
 
Take it back to the shop so they can inspect it, replace the o-ring and refill it. It is most likely just an o-ring problem.
 
If there is significant pitting around the neck where the o-ring seats due to salt water/corrosion, you'll continue to have a slow leak. There is a fix for it, but dive shops won't usually do it anymore because it places the liability of the tank on their shoulders. But, it involves smoothing the pits out.

But, I agree, probably just crap on the o-ring, valve or tank that needs to be cleaned up.
 
Not a DIY fix unless you have appropriate tools and supplies. And if you take the valve off and replace the tank neck o-ring, you should be educated in how to inspect the tank and tank neck to be sure it's appropriate to replace them. This should be dealt with by your shop.
 
Often times the o-ring leaks. I have seen the purple o-rings do that. Sometimes when doing VIP's shops do not replace these o-rings (Not saying yours didn't).

I would call it a warranty issue and have the shop resolve it and fill it for free (Assuming there isn't a problem with the tank itself, which they should have caught when performing the VIP). They were the last ones to touch it less than two months ago. If they won't fix it, post up here for others to stay away from them. If they do fix it, post up here to show they provide good customer service when things do go wrong. And things do go wrong in life, it is what we do about them that matter.

FWIW If the tank isn't already low on air, I would drain it down to almost no pressure then watch as they pull the valve to inspect it. Then again I like to know what is going on with my stuff.
 
I venture a guess that most shops don't torque the valve down to specs, and the valve might just be loose.
 
I venture a guess that most shops don't torque the valve down to specs, and the valve might just be loose.

"specs" is three hits with the rubber mallet right? Or is it four?
 
"specs" is three hits with the rubber mallet right? Or is it four?

Or three hits with the palm of your hand. Valves don't need to be torqued down and shouldn't be. I've seen tank threads ruined by having the valves tightened too much.
 
Or three hits with the palm of your hand. Valves don't need to be torqued down and shouldn't be. I've seen tank threads ruined by having the valves tightened too much.

Tank valves have a particular specified torque. It is supposed to be pretty tight. As I recall, it might be around 100-110 ft lbs.
 
generally 50 ft-lbs is ballpark for most cylinder manufacturers

that's just a bit tighter than what I can get by hand

i know, i use a torque wrench for my valves
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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