sheck33
Contributor
didnt really care if i had a boot on my tank or not. And if they dont like it i'll find another boat 
Tank boot..yes or no??
- Thread starter JT2
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JT2
Guest
Hey guys, you both need to stop the trash talking, that kind of stuff has no place here, if you must do it, do it in your private message box. There are people of all ages on this board, and some of them might be interested in reading this post, so please keep your temper.
Stone
Contributor
In General:
1) Boots can protect a boat's fiberglass/gelcoat (a little)
2) Boots can promote corrosion (a little)
3) Boots can reduce rolling (a little)
As a Diver/Boat Owner:
1) Boots can protect a boat's fiberglass/gelcoat (I hope so!)
2) Boots can promote corrosion (not if you are conscientious)
3) Boots can reduce rolling (don't count on it)
1) Boots can protect a boat's fiberglass/gelcoat (a little)
2) Boots can promote corrosion (a little)
3) Boots can reduce rolling (a little)
As a Diver/Boat Owner:
1) Boots can protect a boat's fiberglass/gelcoat (I hope so!)
2) Boots can promote corrosion (not if you are conscientious)
3) Boots can reduce rolling (don't count on it)
those who posted them will know who they are. PM me if you have a problem with this. Keep your flames to PMs and don't trash our board with them.
I have no boots on the double 104s of course...
(nor on the AL40s or Al80 deco bottles)
but I do have boots on the single 104s....
I need them to add a little drag since I am so streamlined in the water I just keep gliding and run the risk of smashing into things.
Just kidding... I need to get the boots off the single 104s because they do add drag as well as corrosion potential... but I need to put some kind of holders on the boat so the bottoms don't slip slide around when we bungee them to the rail. I'm workin' on thinkin' about it.
BTW... bootless tanks are welcome on my boat... and on the few charters I have been on here in the PNW too... most of the dive boats around here are work boats.
(nor on the AL40s or Al80 deco bottles)
but I do have boots on the single 104s....
I need them to add a little drag since I am so streamlined in the water I just keep gliding and run the risk of smashing into things.
Just kidding... I need to get the boots off the single 104s because they do add drag as well as corrosion potential... but I need to put some kind of holders on the boat so the bottoms don't slip slide around when we bungee them to the rail. I'm workin' on thinkin' about it.
BTW... bootless tanks are welcome on my boat... and on the few charters I have been on here in the PNW too... most of the dive boats around here are work boats.
Hey UP, why not just enlarge the openings in the boots a bit so that they (the tanks) can be easily inserted and removed from them. Fasten the enlarged boots to a base and you have nice holders without having to have them on the tanks themselves.
I just looked at a tank boot and it may be too thin walled to enlarge. How about making a holder from that plastic stuff that everyone used to make ashtrays and such from in the 70's. I am talking about the resin that you pour into a mold and let harden that you can get from a craft store or hobby shop. The bottom of a tank could be used to make a mold. This would not scratch the tanks and would not corrode. Just a thought.
Later, Hawk.
I just looked at a tank boot and it may be too thin walled to enlarge. How about making a holder from that plastic stuff that everyone used to make ashtrays and such from in the 70's. I am talking about the resin that you pour into a mold and let harden that you can get from a craft store or hobby shop. The bottom of a tank could be used to make a mold. This would not scratch the tanks and would not corrode. Just a thought.
Later, Hawk.
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Well I know one was mine, I assume the other was his response to me. No problem, you were right in removing.
Tom
FredT
Guest
On an Aluminum tank used in FRESH water only it has little effect if the boot is of the "self draining" variety. Ditto in Sea water if the boot is removed and rinsed with fresh water after each dive. That solution will last about a week! 
For those of us who live in the real world once a boot is installed it comes off at annual inspection if we're lucky and the guy doing the inspection is actually doing it correctly.
I once inspected a lot of about 60 Al tanks that had been used for over 5 years on a remote island with VERY limited fresh water available, so they were never rinsed after diving. Those with boots failed from Cl ion pitting under the boots, and a fair percentage of those without boots failed due to electrolytic corrosion under the valves.
BTW Be aware that many smaller and island countries have NO requirements or faciities for hydro testing tanks, and visuals are the best QC that can be done on them at a reasonable price. On at least one island I know of it's less expensive to discard the old Aluminum tanks and buy new replacements (including the incoming duties & shipping) than to "send the tanks out for hydro."
On steel tanks used in either fresh or salt water the water trapped under the boot will cause oxidation of the galvanizing. If inspected regularly the galvanizing can be cleaned and replaced with a cold galvanizing compound before any damage is done to the structure of the tank bottoms. The zinc corrosion is faster in sea water but a yearly visual under the boot is enough to catch it for a timely repair. If the tanks don't have boots the corrosion problem is eliminated, but handling and storage problems are created when the tanks are singles. FWIW My steels have boots.
Concerning boots, gell coats, and pool bottoms what can I say?Perhaps it's easier, cheaper, or more profitable to make all customers buy a boot (or use the rental$) than to put a small mat in place to protect gell coat at a "degearing" station. Either way it's not my call. A bare tank dropped into a pool will usually hit the bottom valve first anyway since the valve is the the "heavy end", so the utility of a boot there to protect the tile is questionable at best.
FT
For those of us who live in the real world once a boot is installed it comes off at annual inspection if we're lucky and the guy doing the inspection is actually doing it correctly.I once inspected a lot of about 60 Al tanks that had been used for over 5 years on a remote island with VERY limited fresh water available, so they were never rinsed after diving. Those with boots failed from Cl ion pitting under the boots, and a fair percentage of those without boots failed due to electrolytic corrosion under the valves.
BTW Be aware that many smaller and island countries have NO requirements or faciities for hydro testing tanks, and visuals are the best QC that can be done on them at a reasonable price. On at least one island I know of it's less expensive to discard the old Aluminum tanks and buy new replacements (including the incoming duties & shipping) than to "send the tanks out for hydro."
On steel tanks used in either fresh or salt water the water trapped under the boot will cause oxidation of the galvanizing. If inspected regularly the galvanizing can be cleaned and replaced with a cold galvanizing compound before any damage is done to the structure of the tank bottoms. The zinc corrosion is faster in sea water but a yearly visual under the boot is enough to catch it for a timely repair. If the tanks don't have boots the corrosion problem is eliminated, but handling and storage problems are created when the tanks are singles. FWIW My steels have boots.
Concerning boots, gell coats, and pool bottoms what can I say?Perhaps it's easier, cheaper, or more profitable to make all customers buy a boot (or use the rental$) than to put a small mat in place to protect gell coat at a "degearing" station. Either way it's not my call. A bare tank dropped into a pool will usually hit the bottom valve first anyway since the valve is the the "heavy end", so the utility of a boot there to protect the tile is questionable at best.
FT
wetman
Contributor
Whats the quickest and easiest way to remove and replace a boot? Never have attempted it on my tanks (the new ones are only a couple months old) but this discussion makes me want to take a look.
steve
steve
FredT
Guest
Boot removal is easiest with a short piece of 2x4. Rap it sharply around the top of the boot while rotating the tank. It'll work itself off. The wood doesn't do much damage to the tank finish. Which brings us to yet ANOTHER reason not to paint tanks!
Alternately you can immerse the tank and boot in boiling water to expand the boot so it falls off. The problem here is that due to the heat annealing the boot while it is stretched around the tank it often will be too big to retain itself when you try to put it back on.
FT
Alternately you can immerse the tank and boot in boiling water to expand the boot so it falls off. The problem here is that due to the heat annealing the boot while it is stretched around the tank it often will be too big to retain itself when you try to put it back on.
FT
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