Switching between strobe and ambient, same dive

[Schwob]

So, relative UW photography beginner here. Sony A6300 on order. SeaFrogs housing will be next... I think.... But there is something I essentially still do not understand and hope you can help me with ... and part of it is relevant for the housing selection ... Nothing absolutely mission critical I hope, but I'd like to understand...:

If one wants to switch between ambient light pictures and flash lit pictures on the same dive, would one not need a wet, removable red filter (off for flash, on for ambient) (at least with a camera like any Sony that does not have enough white balance correction "breath" for UW)?

If so, is then the standard (no filter thread) flat port that comes with the SeaFrogs A6xxx housing useless for that? Or how does one get a removable wet filter on that?

Options?

Expanding the thought:
If I were to play with a fisheye lens (Samyang f 8mm f2.8) under the 4"dome port (focus preset, aperture preset)... I also would have no option for a filter... But that sort of setup seems predestined more for available light than flash... Or do people flash that wide...?
If wanting to go available light are there any (thin) options for a filter between lens and camera housing (yes I could loose infinity focus (except stopped fown with fepth of field)... just wondering, is there such a thing as a thin e-mount to e-mount lens adapter that takes filters?
Other Options?

Also, I presently still stink at my photo editing-fu. That free Dive+ editors with the annoying unremovable (unless cropped) Dive + logo runs circles around me. Trying to understand if the following is or is not the case:
Ambient light:
So if the camera w/o filter cannot adjust a (manual) whitebalance correctly because of lack of adjustment range... but a filter helps with that... does that mean that if one was a better photo editor that one could tweak in a picture taken at some depth, (say 27m 90 feet-ish for the argument) in RAW, without filter to look like one taken with (red) filter? ... Or not really?
(and flash and close distance is not only the better, but the only way to go at that depth)???

Change the example depth to just below 10m /30 feet say to 13m, 40 feet... Would your answer change?

 

[Barmaglot]

If you're shooting stills, there is no need for red filter - just shoot in RAW and use spot white balance tool on your computer afterwards to set proper white balance. Capture One Express for Sony is free and works great. There is a 'Pro' version available, but most of its extra features like tethered capture and keystone correction aren't relevant for underwater photography.

Note that on A6xxx series cameras, there is no way to turn off the pop-up flash via menus once it is up, so it will fire on every shot once you release it, and limit your shutter speed to 1/160s. There are, however, two ways to disable it without opening the housing. One is to go into menus and set 'silent shooting' to on - this turns off the mechanical shutter and forces the camera to use the electronic shutter, which also limits you to 1/160s shutter speed, but it disables the flash. Another is to take two magnets and place them on the back of the housing, one inside, the other outside, so that you can use the outer magnet as a handle to move the inner one. There is a small magnet inside the pop-up flash, and the camera has a sensor that detects its proximity to indicate that the flash is retracted - if you place another magnet near that sensor, the camera will be fooled into thinking that the flash is in its 'down' position, even though it's not.

 

[mi000ke]

I'm a beginner UW photographer (but fairly experienced land photographer), and to keep things simple while I learn more about UW photography I'm shooting only ambient light for the time being. I shoot in RAW and adjust the white balance in post processing (most software has an "eyedropper" that you can place over a small portion of the photo and then click to set the white balance), and it's worked out pretty well so far. As I change depth I try to find something that approximates neutral grey like a sandy bottom, and I shoot that to use as a reference to set the WB for photos taken at that depth. Keep repeating this as you change depth. Another option is to take a white slate along with you and shoot that at depth and use that to set WB in post processing. A third option (and the one I find myself using the most, as it's the easiest) is to pick a spot in your photo that comes closest to grey/white and use that to set the WB.

 

[Schwob]

@Barmaglot & @mi000ke
Thanks. Very helpful answers...
My photography skills are not that bad, but my editing skills are basicalky non existant. Good to hear thar raw will get my by indeed w/o filter for stills.

@Barmaglot
Very helpful info.
I guess I will have to play with magnets on dives on which I I have reason to think I'll get by w/o having to rely on my compass... sounds like a "I must try this scenario"...

 

[stepfen]

Note that on A6xxx series cameras, there is no way to turn off the pop-up flash via menus once it is up, so it will fire on every shot once you release it, and limit your shutter speed to 1/160s. There are, however, two ways to disable it without opening the housing. One is to go into menus and set 'silent shooting' to on - this turns off the mechanical shutter and forces the camera to use the electronic shutter, which also limits you to 1/160s shutter speed, but it disables the flash. Another is to take two magnets and place them on the back of the housing, one inside, the other outside, so that you can use the outer magnet as a handle to move the inner one. There is a small magnet inside the pop-up flash, and the camera has a sensor that detects its proximity to indicate that the flash is retracted - if you place another magnet near that sensor, the camera will be fooled into thinking that the flash is in its 'down' position, even though it's not.

WOW! The amount and quality of info one can find in SB is awesome!
I tried the trick with the magnets without the case to my Sony a5100 and it works! I'll have a look but I think it won't be very practical through the housing though.

 

[outofofficebrb]

Use a slate and do manual white balance. Shoot in RAW, fix in post if it is beyond the scope. I still do manual white balance with strobes and find that it often gives better results.

Good luck!

 

[Barmaglot]

WOW! The amount and quality of info one can find in SB is awesome!
I tried the trick with the magnets without the case to my Sony a5100 and it works! I'll have a look but I think it won't be very practical through the housing though.

Full disclosure - the magnet trick wasn't my idea; I came across it in this Wetpixel post.

 

[Pyndle]

Note that on A6xxx series cameras, there is no way to turn off the pop-up flash via menus once it is up, so it will fire on every shot once you release it, and limit your shutter speed to 1/160s. There are, however, two ways to disable it without opening the housing. One is to go into menus and set 'silent shooting' to on - this turns off the mechanical shutter and forces the camera to use the electronic shutter, which also limits you to 1/160s shutter speed, but it disables the flash. Another is to take two magnets and place them on the back of the housing, one inside, the other outside, so that you can use the outer magnet as a handle to move the inner one. There is a small magnet inside the pop-up flash, and the camera has a sensor that detects its proximity to indicate that the flash is retracted - if you place another magnet near that sensor, the camera will be fooled into thinking that the flash is in its 'down' position, even though it's not.

Thanks for that very useful info!!