friscuba:
Egads. I'd try the waves in the first pic, but I'd be heading to a barstool if I saw the waves from the second pic. Steve
Ok, I've done a couple of shore dives - once - with waves as high as the second picture. It was ok, but not something I would actively seek to repeat again. When the waves are that high here, the vis and surge are likely pretty crappy as well.
Anyway, I dive with a hood, even in the summer. I get chilled easily - in the winter (such as it is in Hawaii) the frequency of my diving drops off steeply. Yeah, I'm a WWW. I'm going to be in Catalina for a day this coming June - while I can't pass up the opportunity to get in a couple of dives, I am a bit hesitant with what I've heard the water temps are then - mid 60s? Brrrrrrrr.
Ok, on to shore exits - I usually come in to about waist high water, then lean back and take off my fins. Once one fin is off, I start trying to feel around to get a stable footing, so once the other fin is off I am pretty steady. Any waves coming in from behind I try to plant my feet and lean back just a bit. For me, the trick is to have completely stable footing - either my feet planted in the sand or kind of braced against a rock ledge of sorts - then I can usually stagger out before the next wave rolls in.
Sometimes I'm pushed forward by a wave and get too shallow - meaning the water height is too low for me to keep my balance if another "rogue" wave comes in. In that situation, I have to back up until the water's waist height again and wait until the next lull.
I've done the "From Here to Eternity" sand roll - not graceful at all. Once I start wallowing in the sand and try to stand up there, it's all over. I end up expending most of my energy trying to get upright. From experience,I've learned that I need to back up into the water and start the entire process again.