stuck insert in provalve

[halocline]

@Peter69_56 the difference in your yoke screw vs the inserts though is that the yoke screws are manipulated at least 2x/dive where the inserts are almost never touched. Filling via DIN is more time consuming and very annoying, and leaving them out puts the valves at risk of getting knocked out of round and is why I'm not a fan of DIN regs for rental fleets.

Yep. The inserts sit in the tanks while 90% plus of the divers renting them are using yoke, then one day a DIN user comes along, gets out to the reef, and finds the insert welded in place with months of salt.

Yoke valves have proven themselves to be pretty hardy in rental fleets and charters where they get abused daily. DIN is great for technical diving and tanks that are reasonably well treated, but I can't imagine them holding up as well in high volume caribbean locations where the tanks are tossed around.

 

[Scared Silly]

When I was playing DM I especially liked having yoke valves because there was no screwing around - literally and figuratively as we used a fill whip with a pneumatic yoke.

 

[Panstey77]

Hi everyone,

Picking up on an old thread I know.... but I'd like to know what are the most appropriate tools to use, in order to clean dirty/corroded inserts and the inside of the tank valve? I've removed the inserts and their or-rings and placed them into a bowl of white vinegar to soak. Is a steel brush too much? Would a toothbrush be more appropriate? Also, it's been mentioned to wash the inserts after diving? I was always told never to get the inserts or inside of the valves wet when filling. As I refill my tanks immediately after they come back from the dive and have been rinsed (due to limited time), I currently towel dry followed by blast dry valve and insert before filling.

Thanks

 

[Zef]

For seemingly hopelessly stuck inserts, one can take a dremel and cut/grind a slot in the insert to accept a large flat blade screw driver. Then use the screw driver to apply enough torque to unscrew the insert. Worst case, you use the dremel to cut/grind through the insert and use a cold chisel to remove it in pieces.

-Z

 

[Scared Silly]

Hi everyone,

Picking up on an old thread I know.... but I'd like to know what are the most appropriate tools to use, in order to clean dirty/corroded inserts and the inside of the tank valve? I've removed the inserts and their or-rings and placed them into a bowl of white vinegar to soak. Is a steel brush too much? Would a toothbrush be more appropriate? Also, it's been mentioned to wash the inserts after diving? I was always told never to get the inserts or inside of the valves wet when filling. As I refill my tanks immediately after they come back from the dive and have been rinsed (due to limited time), I currently towel dry followed by blast dry valve and insert before filling.

Thanks

A soak in a 50/50 vinegar solution if needed. Other wise just remove, rinse in water, and dry. Then reinsert. Use a brass brush to clean the threads if needed. A toothbrush and cleanser if often enough. Never do fills if wet as you will blow water into the cylinder. If you are doing fills after a dive, just remove the inserts when you get home.

 

[happy-diver]

Took me a while folks to realise Allen keys are only for port plugs, Allen, and getting lost
as a matter of fact my fathers two small sets of af and metric, the ones on the ring with
the springs I have just recently replaced, having been party to dwindling their numbers
for fifty years

So you hit them and they spring and apply just enough force to damage
the piece you are trying to free without cracking anything except your fingers
of course regs included

I use din valves for din and yoke valves for yoke so my insert issues only come about when people
give me seized valves and after they decline my offer to remove for them the thing, I rub my hand together
because the other one is organising a phosphoric or hydrochloric non chrome threatening bath, then they
spin out like, and it's probably best to not to repeat the example I have in my mind

for the non silicone grease anti contamination people is, understanding best practice for dummies
and then adapting, to use between threads and then understanding that the one billion zillionth
of a pound of water encapsulated by the miniscule amount of silicone grease applied to threads will do SFA

mainly on 100% o2 clean reg bodies where that heavenly feeling becomes apparent
when months later during service or just for inspection you are able to unscrew
your first stages by hand

The silicone that is on the threads outside the orings that maintain your o2ability

now something like these

 

[Zef]

Took me a while folks to realise Allen keys are only for port plugs, Allen, and getting lost
as a matter of fact my fathers two small sets of af and metric, the ones on the ring with
the springs I have just recently replaced, having been party to dwindling their numbers
for fifty years

So you hit them and they spring and apply just enough force to damage
the piece you are trying to free without cracking anything except your fingers
of course regs included

I use din valves for din and yoke valves for yoke so my insert issues only come about when people
give me seized valves and after they decline my offer to remove for them the thing, I rub my hand together
because the other one is organising a phosphoric or hydrochloric non chrome threatening bath, then they
spin out like, and it's probably best to not to repeat the example I have in my mind

for the non silicone grease anti contamination people is, understanding best practice for dummies
and then adapting, to use between threads and then understanding that the one billion zillionth
of a pound of water encapsulated by the miniscule amount of silicone grease applied to threads will do SFA

mainly on 100% o2 clean reg bodies where that heavenly feeling becomes apparent
when months later during service or just for inspection you are able to unscrew
your first stages by hand

The silicone that is on the threads outside the orings that maintain your o2ability

View attachment 516599

now something like these

I am interested to know what language you are cutting and pasting into google translate. your posts are really hard to follow.

-Z

 

[rjack321]

Hi everyone,

Picking up on an old thread I know.... but I'd like to know what are the most appropriate tools to use, in order to clean dirty/corroded inserts and the inside of the tank valve? I've removed the inserts and their or-rings and placed them into a bowl of white vinegar to soak. Is a steel brush too much? Would a toothbrush be more appropriate? Also, it's been mentioned to wash the inserts after diving? I was always told never to get the inserts or inside of the valves wet when filling. As I refill my tanks immediately after they come back from the dive and have been rinsed (due to limited time), I currently towel dry followed by blast dry valve and insert before filling.

Thanks

dilute white vinegar and an ultrasonic cleaner will clean up both the valve threads and the insert.

you could use a toothbrush but the ultrasonic cleaner will work better, dont run them too long in vinegar (and dilute the vinegar down 50/50) or you'll take off the chrome

 

[Scared Silly]

I am interested to know what language you are cutting and pasting into google translate. your posts are really hard to follow.

-Z

Friday night posting while drunk down under???

 

[scubafanatic]

I am interested to know what language you are cutting and pasting into google translate. your posts are really hard to follow.

-Z

"That gibberish he talked was Cityspeak, gutter talk, a mishmash of Japanese, Spanish, German, what have you. I didn’t really need a translator. I knew the lingo, every good cop did. But I wasn’t going to make it easier for him."
―Rick Deckard (original Bladerunner)