Strobe and rechargeable batteries??

[DandyDon]

at $20 a four pack I don't think it's too expensive.

Ok, I did not shop prices. I did a quick check on Amazon and their $13.47 each is outrageous. I see the same battery, same brand elsewhere for $8.49, but obviously you have done better shopping.

The 3.7V is only indicating max discharge voltage at a given rate, will hold an even 1.5 or whatever the flash require constantly, V on demand if you want...

Ok, that should work well. Except I have never had strobe batteries fail before the camera batteries ran out, even changing camera batteries between dives but leaving the strobe batteries alone. The 700 mAh batteries that Sealife uses in cameras just don't hold up, while 4 x 2000+ mAh batteries in strobes just keep working. So I think you spent twice as much as I did for batteries that will do the same job the same way, but there may be other advantages.

Don't get them wet, especially with salt water. I carry a couple of AA batteries in a plastic case in my cargo pocket in case my everyday Canon runs out of juice, and leaving them in thru a washing machine cycle finished them off.

As far as common sense cautions go, don't ever open on to see how their made. I did that with an old cell phone lithium battery once and nearly started a fire.

 

[tursiops]

I know this is years down the line, but I've ordered 18650 3.7V 2600mAh Li-ion batteries for my Sealife strobe. I am pretty sure that they will do me much better than the standard 1.5V AA off the shelf batteries. Is there anyone reading this that use the same spec batteries or are there other suggestions that is tried and proven.

It is worth pointing out that 18650 batteries are much larger than AA batteries, size-wise. A standard AA battery is about 50mm long by 13mm diameter. An 18650 is 65mm long by 18mm diameter (that is what 18650 means). An 18650 is not likely to fit in a space designed for AA batteries.

 

[DandyDon]

It is worth pointing out that 18650 batteries are much larger than AA batteries, size-wise. A standard AA battery is about 50mm long by 13mm diameter. An 18650 is 65mm long by 18mm diameter (that is what 18650 means). An 18650 is not likely to fit in a space designed for AA batteries.

I had to convert those dimensions: 2/10" wider and 6/10" longer would be a real problem.

 

[tursiops]

I had to convert those dimensions: 2/10" wider and 6/10" longer would be a real problem.

Sorry, I did it in metric because that's what 18650 means. The little 2450 lithium cells, like in my watch-computer, are 24mm in diameter, and 5.0mm thick. Nice, easy.

 

[jfe]

Was not aware of the size difference. Thanks for that, will review my search.

 

[dmaziuk]

Was not aware of the size difference. Thanks for that, will review my search.

14500s, however, are AA-sized 3.7 v Li-ion rechargeables.

 

[fmerkel]

Unless the device is SPECIFICALLY designed for it you are not going to substitute 18650 for AA. You will fry the device..
AA are 1.4v fully charged. 18650 are 4.2v fully charged. Plus, as stated they will not fit. 14500 are the same size.

For the person thinking AA are always 1.5v...not. 1.2v 'nominal', 1.0v=dead, 1.4v=fully charged. In general Eneloops are WAY better than almost anything with a claim to more than 2500mA. It is not all about capacity, you also have to deliver that capacity. The high capacity cells, if INDEED THEY ARE HIGH CAPACITY (lots of times that claim is bogus), the increased capacity is at the expense of higher internal resistance and lower delivery ability > slower cycling. I have some Ansmann 2850ma (really more like 2400mA) and my 2000mA Eneloops put them to shame.

 

[tursiops]

Unless the device is SPECIFICALLY designed for it you are not going to substitute 18650 for AA. You will fry the device..
AA are 1.4v fully charged. 18650 are 4.2v fully charged. Plus, as stated they will not fit. 14500 are the same size.

For the person thinking AA are always 1.5v...not. 1.2v 'nominal', 1.0v=dead, 1.4v=fully charged. In general Eneloops are WAY better than almost anything with a claim to more than 2500mA. It is not all about capacity, you also have to deliver that capacity. The high capacity cells, if INDEED THEY ARE HIGH CAPACITY (lots of times that claim is bogus), the increased capacity is at the expense of higher internal resistance and lower delivery ability > slower cycling. I have some Ansmann 2850ma (really more like 2400mA) and my 2000mA Eneloops put them to shame.

Eneloops rule, for strobes.

 

[fmerkel]

Most strobes take 4 x AA
4 x 1.4v (NiMh) = 5.6v
4 x 4.2v (rechargeable lithium) = 16.8v >>>>>> fried strobe

Unfortunately voltage readings to determine remaining capacity on NiMh are almost useless. OTOH if you have a DECENT charger you can charge them anytime.

You can do some approximate remaining capacity checking on Li-on (lithium).

 

[DandyDon]

Most strobes take 4 x AA
4 x 1.4v (NiMh) = 5.6v
4 x 4.2v (rechargeable lithium) = 16.8v >>>>>> fried strobe

He thinks that the strobe will only use the correct voltage, even tho more is available?

The 3.7V is only indicating max discharge voltage at a given rate, will hold an even 1.5 or whatever the flash require constantly, V on demand if you want...

That's not right, is it? On the farm, we sometimes use 24 volts to boost engines using 12 volt batteries, and it's certainly significantly more - as well as damaging, but when you need a tractor started on a cold day - a choice.

14500s, however, are AA-sized 3.7 v Li-ion rechargeables.

Again, too much, right?

I honestly think that it's worth every sent. I use the larger 26650 battery for my flashlight and it keeps me al long time on a single charge.

Like comparing apples to oranges...??

And as I previously said, your camera battery will die long before your strobe batteries - so why bother?