Steel Tanks

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Living in Tampa, why would you not want a more neutrally buoyant tank? How much weight do you carry now? BCD or Back Plate?
Weight of BP if you wear one?

For warm water diving you may want to look at the Faber LP95, IMO.


I see what you're saying about warm water... And you're right I avoid wetsuits at all costs...

But I am not sure why I would want a more neutrally buoyant tank? Faber is 2lbs lighter across the board, but that would translate to me carrying 2lbs more of lead...

Right now I do 12lbs lead with an AL 80.

With a worthington I should only have to carry 7lbs of lead... I'd have to carry 9 lbs with a faber.
 
I see what you're saying about warm water... And you're right I avoid wetsuits at all costs...

But I am not sure why I would want a more neutrally buoyant tank? Faber is 2lbs lighter across the board, but that would translate to me carrying 2lbs more of lead...

Right now I do 12lbs lead with an AL 80.

With a worthington I should only have to carry 7lbs of lead... I'd have to carry 9 lbs with a faber.

Just so I understand, you carry 12# in warm water without a wetsuit? I'm guessing you are also using a BCD, not a BP/W.
 
Just so I understand, you carry 12# in warm water without a wetsuit? I'm guessing you are also using a BCD, not a BP/W.

Yes sir that is what I have been using. And yes to the BCD
 
BCD can be as much as 4 or 5# positive. AL80 near empty will be 2 or 3# positive. Let's call this 8# positive.
Regulator/octo may be 3# negative. Not counting all the little stuff that adds positive/negative, you're looking at maybe 4# or 5# positive. As you dive more you will get more comfortable and will begin to descend and remain at depth easier. I'm smaller than you, 5'8" and 165#, but after I had been diving for about 50 dives I could dive with a BCD/Reg-Octo/AL80 and only wear 2#.

My point to all this is that it's early in your diving career and if you buy a steel tank that is on the heavy side, when you dive warm water you'll need to wear a wetsuit just to keep from slamming into the bottom. Anyway, just saying, keep in mind your skill progression and the types of dives you will be doing.
 
I guess I'm not getting your math.. Lets say my:

BC is +3#
Regs -3#

Pretty much my gear is neutrally buoyant for all intensive purposes.

Empty HP100 is -2.5#

So if I chose to dive without lead my gear would be -2.5# approx at the end of a dive.
Why would I ever need a wetsuit? As I become a better diver I can just drop lead.


And also isnt that why I have a Buoyancy Compensator Device? To maintain neutral buoyancy.
 
My personal preference is not to be -10 buoyant in the beginning and to be as near neutral or ever-so-slightly negative in the end. If you use 70% of your gas (depending on dive NDL, etc.) the tank will be approx. -4.8#

If you use your BCD to compensate for a kit that is too heavy you will have buoyancy and trim issues.

Any, do what you want.
 
I appreciate your advice... but we are talking about a difference of 2 lbs between tanks... in my opinion it is a non issue.
 
I wouldn't count on 3500 PSI fills on a tank that's only rated for 2640, even in FL. That's a pretty steep overfill. The only place you're likely to get that would be a shop that caters to cave divers, and I wouldn't even count on that for too much longer, especially now that there are plenty of SP tanks that rival the overfilled LP tanks for gas/weight ratios.

Besides, the LP85 is a fairly tall skinny tank, and really known as great for small doubles rather than as a single tank. If I were at a store where LP85s and HP100s (the SP tanks, NOT the old faber 3100+10%) were the same price, I'd buy the 100 if I wanted it as a single, but the LP85s if I was doubling them.
 

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