Steel tank ID help

[1969ivan1]

I have a steel tank I am trying to ID so I can sell it. The tank is marked FABER 2400 made 1/95 dot 3aa-2400 96/9001. I suspect it is a steel 72 that scubapro sold a while back but wanted to make sure before I put it up for sale. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Ez E]

Definitely looks like steel. May need better pics to determine for sure.

Edit:now we have more info. I guess you can disregard my snarky comment.

 

[Still Kicking]

At 2400 psi it's probably a 75.8cf tank. See dimensions in the brochure to check for sure.

Some were painted white, some were galvanized.

 

[Ez E]

View attachment 846980At 2400 psi it's probably a 75.8cf tank. See dimensions in the brochure to check for sure.

Some were painted white, some were galvanized.

My post was being a bit of a jerk. When the OP posted his thread it had no pictures and only the first sentence was posted. So I made a smart a** reply being me. Than numerous more sentences were added and finally pictures. I must have clicked on it right when it was posted before anything of substance was added. Basically just said “ID this tank so I can sell it”

 

[Still Kicking]

I have a steel tank I am trying to ID so I can sell it. The tank is marked FABER 2400 made 1/95 dot 3aa-2400 96/9001. I suspect it is a steel 72 that scubapro sold a while back but wanted to make sure before I put it up for sale. Any help would be appreciated.

Tank looks in great condition.

However, those tight fitting rubber boots could be rust magnets if neglected. (Not to mention they were tippy with the narrow base). Knock the boot off and check the bottom paint.

Whoever ends up with it might want to drill some more drain holes in the boot and flush regularly after diving.

 

[Tanks A Lot]

If you measure the diameter and height of the cylinder, not including the valve, it makes it a lot easier to identify. It will be one of the below:

Water Capacity (L)	Diameter (mm)	Length (mm)	Working Pressure (Bar)	Empty Weight (Kg)	Empty Buoyancy Seawater (Kg)	Full Buoyancy Seawater (Kg)	Real Weight Seawater (Kg)	Empty Buoyancy Freshwater (Kg)	Full Buoyancy Freshwater (Kg)	Real Weight Freshwater (Kg)	Standards	Comments	Other
2,0	100,08	359,92	165,47	2,68	-0,29	-0,71	2,39	-0,35	-0,78	2,32	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
3,0	100,08	495,05	165,47	3,72	-0,12	-0,77	3,60	-0,23	-0,87	3,49	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
4,0	139,95	370,08	165,47	5,31	-0,49	-1,34	4,82	-0,63	-1,48	4,68	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
7,0	139,95	584,96	165,47	7,98	0,26	-1,23	8,24	0,02	-1,47	8,00	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
7,0	151,89	530,10	165,47	8,62	-0,35	-1,84	8,27	-0,59	-2,09	8,03	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
7,8	139,95	640,08	165,47	8,57	0,56	-1,10	9,14	0,29	-1,37	8,87	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
10,0	178,05	534,92	165,47	11,57	0,22	-1,91	11,79	-0,12	-2,26	11,44	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
11,9	183,90	590,04	165,47	13,61	0,44	-2,10	14,05	0,03	-2,51	13,64	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
12,0	171,70	664,97	165,47	13,29	0,76	-1,79	14,05	0,35	-2,20	13,64	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
12,6	203,71	525,02	165,47	14,79	0,12	-2,57	14,91	-0,31	-3,00	14,47	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
13,0	178,05	659,89	165,47	14,15	1,05	-1,72	15,20	0,61	-2,16	14,76	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
13,0	203,71	540,00	165,47	14,97	0,36	-2,42	15,33	-0,09	-2,86	14,88	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
15,0	203,71	605,03	165,47	16,87	0,77	-2,44	17,64	0,25	-2,95	17,13	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
17,0	203,71	679,96	165,47	18,60	1,35	-2,28	19,95	0,77	-2,86	19,37	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
19,0	203,71	744,98	165,47	20,37	1,85	-2,21	22,21	1,20	-2,86	21,56	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR
20,0	203,71	779,78	165,47	21,23	2,10	-2,17	23,32	1,42	-2,86	22,64	DOT 3AA / TC3AAM	DOT 3AA: W.P.2640 PSI (INCLUDING 10% OVERFILLING)	TC3AAM.W.P. 184 BAR

 

[Johnoly]

However, those tight fitting rubber boots could be rust magnets if neglected. (Not to mention they were tippy with the narrow base). Knock the boot off and check the bottom paint.

100% agree on those rust magnet boots that several of us have been burned by. The other big problem on that boot is drainage. While there are vents right next to the metal, it's the floor contact area that has no vents/drains. It seals in the drippings/puddle of water while standing for days. That high humidity chamber just rusts and destroys the tank bottom over time even if painted. It really needs the hard nylon bottom vented boots.

 

[Tanks A Lot]

The boots on steel cylinders has been one of my greatest headaches when inspecting steel cylinders. It is close to impossible to get dive centres to take the boots off and rinse the area properly every few weeks. Especially shore dives with lots of sand buildup are a killer for this area.

Nets must span the whole cylinder and not stop short somewhere before the center base. Ideal is a coin sized area left free of net in the very center of the base. There must not be any extra net left hanging around the base either.

Even if the net is properly fixed, never rinsing the boot area and taking it off, will eventually result in corrosion.

 

[Still Kicking]

100% agree on those rust magnet boots that several of us have been burned by. The other big problem on that boot is drainage. While there are vents right next to the metal, it's the floor contact area that has no vents/drains. It seals in the drippings/puddle of water while standing for days. That high humidity chamber just rusts and destroys the tank bottom over time even if painted. It really needs the hard nylon bottom vented boots.

Finding an alternative boot for the tank (diameter 6.76") is going to be nearly impossible. It is too skinny for a standard 72cf boot (6.9").

The best for these tanks are the chunky type shown in the brochure, which had good drainage around the sides. But if you are lucky enough to find one it's most likely to have another tank attached.

The next best option is to drill some more holes, flush regularly and let the tank dry out after dives.

 

[happy-diver]

see that handsome guy there

and all the holes that you can't see

he puts the boot on a pine stick, punches holes all over the place for really clean holes unlike drilling

when finished clenching and he is at home happy cleaning he puts his tanks in a bucket of hot water

not at the same time


Have to love 1969ivan1
one of the great later contributors to our sport especially in the realm of Double hose and Vintage

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