Steel Tank Exterior (can it be redone)

[mainedvr]

I have two Faber (white) HP100s that have just a little rust on the bottom of the tanks I rinse them well after dives and actually dry them off with a rag. I have read where people have had them re furbished on the exterior like the white taken off and then cleaned and coated? Is this realistic or a waste of time. They have passed viz and hydro but would like to take care of them to last many more years.

What have others done, if anything?

Thanks

 

[NAM001]

I would say waste of time. Unless you have a boot on youare probably spinning your wheels. clean it and hit it with some primer and let it go.

 

[JohnnyC]

I know a couple people who have had them stripped, re-coated them in cold galv, then re-painted. They seem to be holding up ok.

 

[AfterDark]

I have 3 steel tanks from the 1960's that were painted originally. I stripped them with paint stripper, power wire brushed and painted them with several coats of cold galvanized paint then covered that with several coats of clear coat. Been 2-3 years now no problems. If you want to keep them looking nice post paint job cover them with plastic mesh netting when transporting and filling. I remove the boots from the tanks when I dive, boots are for storage, IMO.

 

[ajduplessis]

I would say a waste of time. Rather clean and de-rust the area(s) of concern with white vinegar before drying. Then apply clear-coat nail polish to seal the area(s) from the elements.

 

[mainedvr]

I have 3 steel tanks from the 1960's that were painted originally. I stripped them with paint stripper, power wire brushed and painted them with several coats of cold galvanized paint then covered that with several coats of clear coat. Been 2-3 years now no problems. If you want to keep them looking nice post paint job cover them with plastic mesh netting when transporting and filling. I remove the boots from the tanks when I dive, boots are for storage, IMO.

Thanks
I currently do not have boots on them as they are doubled up but I usually take the boots off after a dive for rinsing. No overly concerned with appearance more on the rust side of things want to make sure I get at least a few more hydro's out of them.

 

[Landlocked123]

sand and paint over. Depends on how good you want them to look. The guy that owns my LDS refurbished 2 old cylinders he found at the bottom of the quarry. Had them tumbled to remove the interior rust, then had an automotive body shop sand the exterior and had them professionally painted. They passed Hydro and look literally new. on my HP 100 every year I sand where needed and apply a clear cloat and that is that. I guess in time I may consider a full paintjob. Bottomline as long as you are sealing the elements out somehow it will inhibit rust formation.

 

[rx7diver]

What have others done, if anything?

mainedvr,

One of my three OMS (Faber) LP 46 cylinders developed paint blisters beneath its tank boot very soon after I purchased it new c. 1995. I had dove it only in fresh water (Great Lakes and Ohio quarries). About 20 years ago I took it to my local vocational-technical school and had it bead-blasted down to bare metal. I then spray painted it with some galvanize paint (Rust-Oleum, IIRC). It hasn't experienced any blistering since. (I've only dove it since in Missouri quarries and swimming pools.)

My paint job is pretty rough, though. So, this tank doesn't have a factory-finished look to it.

rx7sig.

 

[Compressor]

I would say a waste of time. Rather clean and de-rust the area(s) of concern with white vinegar before drying. Then apply clear-coat nail polish to seal the area(s) from the elements.

Get the rust out by light sanding if needed. Then I clean it will usually with alcohol getting all the rust and dirt out. Then apply clear coat nail polish. on.

 

[Rred]

First, clean off any rust and get a fresh surface. A wire brush, a dremel tool, some ScotchBrite pads, some sandpaper, anything that is at hand, use the least abrasive that does the job.

Once you have a clean surface there are many ways to treat it. You can buy a can of zinc rich "cold galvanize" paint for maybe $5 at any big box store, and apply a few coats. Cheap, not terribly durable, but easily recoated and zinc coatings do help resist rust.

Or you can look to apply something more durable but pricier, like an epoxy paint. Again, multiple layers.

Or something like zinc primer, followed by truck bed liner, the heavy rubbery plastic paint.

If you want aesthetics, you clean off the whole tank and have it professionally sprayed or powder coated, or apply an epoxy or urethane paint to it. As long as the top is taped off to prevent contamination, and the tank is not heated, it is just "a paint job" that any body shop or other coatings supply can do, or you can DIY.