FastAttack
Contributor
well my sp 350 and pt030 flooded on my 3rd dive .. not happy about it :|
wondering how Oly will take care of me on this one :\
wondering how Oly will take care of me on this one :\
sp-350
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rjsimp
Contributor
FastAttack:
Ah, that sucks! Did you determine the reason for the flood? Hopefully it wasn't a DAA that you are kicking yourself over. Did you have DEPP or something like that?
We (my wife and I) have never flooded a camera yet (knock on wood) and hopefully won't as I am pretty anal about checking/double checking/tripple checking everything and I only pack the cameras in the hotel room if possible.
I would like to hear what you find out on why it flooded and what happened since we have a couple of those setups.
Sorry to hear, good luck!
FastAttack
Contributor
Well
What I did was.
I siliconed the oring with the oly silicion like stated on the manual ( using my fingers)
I made sure that no sand or particulate matter was left on it.. , I placed the oring back into the case and made sure that nothing was getting squished, or out of place. I made sure no excess silicone was left behind.
I put in the silica under the camera, closed the camera and before latching it , I made sure that no hairs/or any other foreign objects where on the way. I latched the camera up until I heard the "click" and kept going
I placed the camera into fresh water to see if any bubbles came out. nothing.
anyhow fast foward to the beach dive.. went in.. turned on the camera then I noticed it wouldn't turn on.. then I saw the light for the flash briefly turned on, then all of a sudden. I saw a bubble inside the camera..
the darn thing flooded :|
I am not sure if I should return the camera to the place I bought it ( its not even 10 days old) and get a replacement or contact oly and say their pos PT-030 flooded my camera using the proper care..
either way I think I will be out the $200
What I did was.
I siliconed the oring with the oly silicion like stated on the manual ( using my fingers)
I made sure that no sand or particulate matter was left on it.. , I placed the oring back into the case and made sure that nothing was getting squished, or out of place. I made sure no excess silicone was left behind.
I put in the silica under the camera, closed the camera and before latching it , I made sure that no hairs/or any other foreign objects where on the way. I latched the camera up until I heard the "click" and kept going
I placed the camera into fresh water to see if any bubbles came out. nothing.
anyhow fast foward to the beach dive.. went in.. turned on the camera then I noticed it wouldn't turn on.. then I saw the light for the flash briefly turned on, then all of a sudden. I saw a bubble inside the camera..
the darn thing flooded :|
I am not sure if I should return the camera to the place I bought it ( its not even 10 days old) and get a replacement or contact oly and say their pos PT-030 flooded my camera using the proper care..
either way I think I will be out the $200
rjsimp
Contributor
FastAttack,
Well, it sounds like there were no DAAs in that process. I have seen people get the little lanyards for the lense cap and sun sheild caught in their O-Ring and cause flooding. In fact, when I was in Grand Cayman a few weeks ago, someone did it.
I'm not sure how much grease you put on the o-ring, but since this isn't a friction (there's no rubbing on it when the case closes), you can really put just a little tiny bit. I go around the o-ring many times while greasing it. Each time I go around it (lightly pinching it between my fingers to spread the grease), I check for anything with a lighted magnifying glass. I can also feel anything usually.
I have noticed (and you should check yours) that the olympus o-rings can be a bit rough on the seam with excess rubber there. This would definitely be an issue that I would think olympus should pay for.
As long as your chanel was clean before you put it in (use a lint free cloth with a little grease on it to wipe the channel clean) and the o-ring remains clean after it is inserted. You just need to wipe clean (with same lint free cloth) the opposite side of the case and close it up making sure none of the metioned lanyards get caught.
The only other thing that could cause the flood is if the orings on the buttons failed which again should be a deal that olympus pays for since it is brand new.
You mentioned a shore dive... Did you check the camera again when you first got in (I always do even though no bubbles in rinse tank). I am not sure how long it took to flood based on what you said. If you got down to a depth of maybe 30 feet or so, it could have been something that caused the flood that you would have never seen in a rinse tank. If it flooded right away, that is something that should have been more obvious or a failure between the rinse tank and the shore dive.
I'm not sure if all my rambling helped or not (hate to see a flood or even hear of one, ).
Well, it sounds like there were no DAAs in that process. I have seen people get the little lanyards for the lense cap and sun sheild caught in their O-Ring and cause flooding. In fact, when I was in Grand Cayman a few weeks ago, someone did it.
I'm not sure how much grease you put on the o-ring, but since this isn't a friction (there's no rubbing on it when the case closes), you can really put just a little tiny bit. I go around the o-ring many times while greasing it. Each time I go around it (lightly pinching it between my fingers to spread the grease), I check for anything with a lighted magnifying glass. I can also feel anything usually.
I have noticed (and you should check yours) that the olympus o-rings can be a bit rough on the seam with excess rubber there. This would definitely be an issue that I would think olympus should pay for.
As long as your chanel was clean before you put it in (use a lint free cloth with a little grease on it to wipe the channel clean) and the o-ring remains clean after it is inserted. You just need to wipe clean (with same lint free cloth) the opposite side of the case and close it up making sure none of the metioned lanyards get caught.
The only other thing that could cause the flood is if the orings on the buttons failed which again should be a deal that olympus pays for since it is brand new.
You mentioned a shore dive... Did you check the camera again when you first got in (I always do even though no bubbles in rinse tank). I am not sure how long it took to flood based on what you said. If you got down to a depth of maybe 30 feet or so, it could have been something that caused the flood that you would have never seen in a rinse tank. If it flooded right away, that is something that should have been more obvious or a failure between the rinse tank and the shore dive.
I'm not sure if all my rambling helped or not (hate to see a flood or even hear of one,
).
Make sure you retest the housing. Try to see where the leak was. If an o-ring leaked somewhere, Oly should cover it. If it was owner error, you're SOL. If you bought it at Costco, they have a no questions return policy. Just say it doesn't work. If elsewhere, you'll have to prove the housing defective to get the camera replaced. Either way, sorry. So far, I've been lucky. The two times I've been stupid (once, the pinched lens cap string, the other was I forgot to latch one side) I've only had a dribble that got the dessicant wet. Hope it all works out.
gert7to3
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RE: SP-510 UZ. Ikelite has a housing for the SP-500 UZ :
http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/oly_sp500.html
Which is the prior camera in this line. Don't know if it's the exact same body, but you could check at:
www.imaging-resource.com
to see if it is. Select a search by manufacturer, then find Olympus for the camera(s). Here's a comparison chart for the SP-350; SP-500 uz; SP-510 uz:
http://www.imaging-resource.com/CAM...sections[]=928§ions[]=1100&submit=Compare
The maximum aperture is the same for all lenses, but the SP-350 gives you 2cm macro capability vs 3cm for the UZ czmeras. Just where do you think you will use 10x zoom underwater?
http://www.ikelite.com/web_pages/oly_sp500.html
Which is the prior camera in this line. Don't know if it's the exact same body, but you could check at:
www.imaging-resource.com
to see if it is. Select a search by manufacturer, then find Olympus for the camera(s). Here's a comparison chart for the SP-350; SP-500 uz; SP-510 uz:
http://www.imaging-resource.com/CAM...sections[]=928§ions[]=1100&submit=Compare
The maximum aperture is the same for all lenses, but the SP-350 gives you 2cm macro capability vs 3cm for the UZ czmeras. Just where do you think you will use 10x zoom underwater?
gert7to3
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Regarding the SP-350 vs SP-500/510 uz's
There are some supplimentary lenses for the SP-350 which can extend the range of the camera for topside shooting. W/A would come in around 28mm equivalent and the tele would be around a 190mm equivalent.
These screw into an extension tube (PN: CLA-9)which screws into the front of the camera. I have used such adapters with my Sony S-70 and V-1 and have them for the SP-350 as well. Another advantage is that the extension tube acts as a lens shade, filter attachment, camera grip and protects the lens from bumps. If you have filters which are larger than the 34mm dia. end of the adapter you can use step-up rings.
The cost would be about $230 (USD) for the lenses. This might be a cost effective alternative to purchasing the SP-500/510 and an Ikelite housing. Heck you would save enough money to buy a second SP-350 for flood insurance.
There are some supplimentary lenses for the SP-350 which can extend the range of the camera for topside shooting. W/A would come in around 28mm equivalent and the tele would be around a 190mm equivalent.
These screw into an extension tube (PN: CLA-9)which screws into the front of the camera. I have used such adapters with my Sony S-70 and V-1 and have them for the SP-350 as well. Another advantage is that the extension tube acts as a lens shade, filter attachment, camera grip and protects the lens from bumps. If you have filters which are larger than the 34mm dia. end of the adapter you can use step-up rings.
The cost would be about $230 (USD) for the lenses. This might be a cost effective alternative to purchasing the SP-500/510 and an Ikelite housing. Heck you would save enough money to buy a second SP-350 for flood insurance.
gert7to3
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Oops, here's the Olympus page for the previous post:
http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_s...1=16&wwwproduct=1188&submit2=Go&acccategory=5
http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_s...1=16&wwwproduct=1188&submit2=Go&acccategory=5
I once again had the opportunity to use my camera (SP-350). This photo was taken in < 40fsw, he was moving pretty fast, as was the current. I have not PSed it yet simply because I am not very good at PS, but I think it came out pretty good. I do not have an external flash.
Great picture, Linda. Maybe a little blue. How's this?
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