sp-350

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It's called DAN insurance. We had a similar couple of dives at Coz last summer on San Francisco reef. The current was so stiff we were bouncing off rocks. The dive leader and my wife and son grabbed a rock and stopped to look at an eel, and I shot by so fast I had to grab the next rock and kick as hard as I ever have to crawl the 10 feet back. One fingering the rocky sand bottom all the way. It was a great dive, but the dive leader said he'd never had current like that there. We did one during the day and one the same night on the same reef. Dropped down through a school of about a thousand barracuda. It was awesome, but a little scary.
 
Have insurance, Larry..however, deductible is more than cost to replace this camera & housing.

We dive in strong current here in the Gulf of Mexico...not unusual. Also dive regularly in coz. I also lead dives. What these guys were doing was not designed to enhance their customer's pleasure as divers.....more like to just cut the dive short. I like my NEW SP-350!!

Regards,
 
Not going to get many return customers that way. As a dive leader (I'm currently a DCIT) our job is to make the dive more enjoyable, so I guess they weren't doing theirs. SSI doesn't recommend going out past 1.5 knots on a rec dive. What's your policy? Glad you like the camera!
 
I've been getting an awful lot of slightly out-of-focus shots with the SP-350 lately. Not sure if it's because there's a lot of turbidity in the water or what. I know that with the camera in UW Macro mode I need to be back at least 4 or 5 inches from the subject, but it seems to be wanting to focus just behind the subject.

Over the week-end I took 276 shots, and well over 200 of them were instant throwouts because of the focusing issue.

Never had this problem with the Fuji ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
You're too close for macro. I think the macro range starts at about 8-10 inches. If you want to be right on top of the subject, you'll need to go to super macro, which gets you down to about 3/4". In supermacro, the flash will only work in slave mode, and you'll get a lens shadow if you're too close, unless you're using a strobe. I think you might be able to turn on supermacro in the UW macro preset, but it will change back when you turn off the camera. One solution is to set up UW macro with your resolution and focus choices as a My Mode. Set the settings where you want them. Go to "Camera Set-up" menu. When you set the "My Mode" number, right click one more space where it says, "reset, custom or current". Click current settings for the "my mode" # you want to use, and it will stay there. That way you can set it up for manual or autofocus, auto spot focus, isp focus, etc. If you use manual focus, you can scroll the focus up or down using your menu buttons, and it will give you a screen with a slider bar that starts at 3/4" and works its way up to 8". If you pass that, you get a second screen with the next range, etc. Another issue with UW macro, is in dark water, you'll get a fairly slow shutter speed, i.e. 40-60. If you have surge and move a little, you'll get a blurred picture. You might try going to manual settings in "my mode". Start with maybe shutter speed of 80 on f4.5. Do a test shot at your depth. The camera will scroll shutter speed with the up/down buttons, f-stop with the l/r buttons. Check your screen immediately after a shot for light level and adjust accordingly. Another key is make sure you wait for the focus light to blink if you're in autofocus. Generally the screen will go kind of grainy when it does.
 
Have a look at the EXIF data on the shots - which aperture did the camera choose / use ?

As a starting point try setting the zoom to around 80% of maximum .Set the shutter to 1/00 or 1/125 and the aperture to f/11.0 .

One technique is to approach the subject from say around 12" and watch the viewfinder till the subject appears sharp . Do the 1/2 press on the shutter , when the camera locks focus press the button the rest of the way .

This is what worked for me when I first started shooting macro .The auto settings on the Oly's don't do such a great job , try to move to manual settings .
 
I've been getting very inconsistent focus on Supermacro. I think it's the lack of light at the depths I'm diving (typically 60+ feet in dark water). I bought a little UK pocket light for $14.95 and I'm going to hook that to one of the arms and try it as a focus light, and see if that helps.
I finally got to dive with the Sunpak. Having dual strobes really helped balance the light. I don't have the heavy shadows to one side. Also, on a couple of shots I was able to get under a shelf and still have light on the fish from both sides. I'm still struggling with the settings. I slaved the Sunpak to my Oly flash on ttl setting, and that worked well for the macros, but a lot of my wider shots came in dark. Probably the pea soup green water and 60-70 foot depth. I did get a couple of great shots of a juvenile harbor seal that was following us around, and though they were pretty much black I salvaged them in Rawshooter. I'll post some shots. I think I'll test the manual strobe settings in my camera and set the Oly strobe on Manual to see if I can get more consistent light.
The bad news is that though the Sunpak worked fine when I got home, this morning it wouldn't test fire. I took out the batteries and found a little condensation on them, but definitely no flood. I'm charging the batteries and left the battery door open so if I got condensation in the strobe it should hopefully evaporate out by the time I get home. Fingers crossed. I don't think there's any sort of dessicant in the strobe, so I don't know how I'll keep condensation out in our 50-54 degree water, short of leaving the battery door open overnight after a dive perhaps.
 
That's good news, Larry......at least you didn't loose it!

Regards,
 
Oh well, strobe still won't work. Time to call Helix. Fingers crossed. I can't believe I waited 2 months for the stupid thing and it lasted one dive! Pictures are posted on my Gallery. Some of the shots at Monolobo Wall came out really nice-lots of color there and 45 foot vis. Got my first Seal pictures in Pea Soup at Hopkins. Three friendly Harbor Seal Pups followed us around about 10 feet away the whole dive. Too bad it was so green, as I got an otherwise great picture with him sitting on top of a rock watching me from about 8 feet off.
 
Larry
This thread has been quiet for a while.
I see that you use the SP-350 with Fl-20 flash and PFL-01 housing. Is that all I need for the Sp-350 and Oly PT-030 (which I have) and does it work TTL with the camera. Where is best source to get the equipment new? Is the PFL-01 made by Olympus?
Thanks,
 

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