Some Final Questions...

[TightLines]

Can anyone let me know if using a fiber optic cable similar to the one in the picture in the link below will be an issue with an Ike housing?

I'm not sure if this cable can only be used with a Patima housing or if I could use some of the bushings in the link below to connect using the following mount.

Bushings: https://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3932

Fiber optic mount: https://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4024

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[HerraduraDivers]

Tightlines,
AFAIK the Ikelite has no "ports" for the rubber plug shown on your first link, i guess that the plug is made to allow 2 optcal cables
on the "strobe port" of a Patima housing, probably for the G11.
The Fiber Optic Mounting Block shown in your second link works perfect on your Ikelite housing,
stick it directly on the housing in front of the cameras strobe or if the housing has there a corner/is round stick it in the strobe blocking plate.
I have one of this blocks on my Ikelite Fuji E900 housing and after 4 years it is still in place.

Chris

 

[TightLines]

Chris,

Thanks for the response.

I'm not clear from your post but is it possible to convert that cable from Its current patina housing plug to something that will fit in the mounting block (likelyusing a new bushing )?

On other quick question.

I've read a couple of mixed things but does the Sea&Sea YS-110a have an Inon sttl equivalent? I'm fairly certain that it is what Sea&Sea calls ds-ttl but just wanted to confirm.

Thanks in advance.

 

[HerraduraDivers]

TightLines,
sorry for beeing unclear.

the Fiber Optic Mountin Block looks like that: Fantasea Line Water Sports Photo Products & Accessories- Nano Fiber Optic Cable Kit
To answere your question,
NO, you can't use the Patima plug as the Ikelite housing has no plug, you have to use the block
YES, you can reuse the fibre optic cables, just drill a second hole in the block and attach the second cable in the second hole.

You may have to connect the YS-110a strobes as follows: block --> first strobe --> first strobe to second strobe so
you don't need to drill a second hole in the block. Check your manual about that!


Yes, S&S calls it Digital Strobe-TTL an it's designed to be INON s-ttl equivalent and i should give you good exposure.
To tell you the truth i don't know how well it works and i personally would buy another DS-2000 as i know that s-ttl work very well
and that the INON Strobes are very sturdy and reliable.

Chris

 

[muzikbiz22]

Not sure if this helps here, but, I'm using the Ikelite/S90, with the Sea & Sea YS-01, firing optically all day long with 100 % success. And here is how; drill a tiny hole in the included Ikelite deflector (not diffuser) to mount one end of your Sea & Sea L-Type Optical cable facing right in front of the flash. Again, it works perfectly ! Reef Photo actually did this for me when I purchased my housing, strobe, etc.

 

[TightLines]

Thanks for all the help guys. At this point I am likely to go the S2000 route instead of the YS110a I may give the diffuser setup a go.

Anyone have experience using the diffuser setup for the fiber optic mount vs a dedicated block?

 

[HerraduraDivers]

TightLines,
the hole in the deflector/reflector plate is a emergency solution if you can't buy the mounting block or can't mount it @ the right position.
Ask Ryan from Reef Photo about that, he knows it it will fit your housing and will tell you what he thinks about mounting the optical cable on the de/reflector

PROS:
- the mounting block is glued on the housing and not on the de/reflector, this will give you the possibility to use the camera without re/deflector and reduces the risk of entanglements with the cable and subsequent troubles with the de/reflector.
- you save 19.95$ using the de/reflector mounting solution

CONS:
- If you or something get tangled in the cable because they are in a more vulnerable position you may break the re/deflector.
- with the cables mounted on the de/diffuser you HAVE to use the re/deflector. Not a good solution as there are better solutions to block the light from the strobe. (see below)
- you have to pay 19.95$ for the mounting block

Considerations:
- You should tape off or paint the inside of your housing to deflect the strobe, but leave a tiny area where the mounting goes.
- Depending on your cameras strobe position, a better way to block the strobe flash to create backscattter is to stick a small piece of black developed 35mm film over the strobe. This will avoid visible backscatter but still trigger the strobe as the infrared rays are invisible but will trigger the strobe's. http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/inon-clear-photo-system-receives-us-patent/
- The Ikelite de/reflector is not very sturd and if you get tangled or bend it you may break it, i did that...
- i find the use of the re/deflector not very confortable, especially with strong currrents

I would not buy the S-2000 because:
- i don't belive (because of it's size) that it has the same power as the D-2000
- it lacks the automatic mode and a focus light the D-2000 have
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/strobes-lighting/332443-d2000-vs-s2000-thoughts.html
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/canon-corner/321272-s90-ike-inon-strobe.html

Chris

 

[under water]

I think you will do well with the s-2000's. Scott Gietler, in his review Inon S2000 Strobe Review|Underwater Photography Guide said that they were 1/2 stop lower than his Z-240's, which are rated at GN24 and said they were "surprisingly strong". This is the best independent evaluation I have seen other than some general impressions and opinions based on 'size'.

I have a couple of s2000's and having previously used DS-125s and DS-160's they are so much easier to use and transport. They worked every single time using the FO cable giving me ample exposure and I know I wasn't getting anything close to full output as the batteries lasted for at least 600 pictures before I needed to replace, probably closer to 800.

I agree with Chris' comments about avoiding using the deflector plate and mounting the FO connector on the case directly and blocking out as much of the internal flash as possible.

 

[TightLines]

Thanks guys for the input.

Use of developed film is a new tip that I'll have to consider.

Sounds like the mounting block/S-2000 option is what I'll go with for the time being.

Frank, I'm curious what you do for diving around these parts (I live in Boston).

 

[dmpaq20]

awesome posts guys, very informative