Some Final Questions...

[TightLines]

As far as EA mode, is there also a shutter speed assumption built in similar to the notion that the strobe assumes a 100 ISO?

Based your comments on the f stop in input on the strobe could you effectively use this as a form of exposure compensation? As an example, you have your strobe set to match the f stop you're using on the camera but the photos are coming out over exposed. Would it make sense to go up one f stop on the camera but leave the f stop setting on the strobe at the previous level?

Is the example comprehendible?

I'm finally starting to understand the bigger picture here. Thanks again.

 

[Nemrod]

As far as EA mode, is there also a shutter speed assumption built in similar to the notion that the strobe assumes a 100 ISO? No, there is no shutter assumption. The strobe pulse is like 1/20,000 to 1/50,000th second, the shutter is open typically for 1/60 to 1/500 second. Remember, f stop and strobe power expose the near ground/subject and shutter (and f stop) expose the background.

Based your comments on the f stop in input on the strobe could you effectively use this as a form of exposure compensation? As an example, you have your strobe set to match the f stop you're using on the camera but the photos are coming out over exposed. Would it make sense to go up one f stop on the camera but leave the f stop setting on the strobe at the previous level? Yes, you can do that, that is the way I typcally vary my strobe exposure.

Is the example comprehendible? Yep

I am down in the shop building up a new, old bicycle, the Wup A--- Special for a crit I got talked into, hope I live, Jimmy (that being me) and the Pinerello vs the "Go fast Carbon Fiber Cycling Snobs in Lycra Panties" club, I predict victory will be mine.

N

 

[TightLines]

Ending up getting an Ike housing for the camera and will be picking up a tray/arm set from Optical Ocean, and either a D2000/S2000 to round out the system (for now).

Took the housing for a test dive (no camera) to check for leaks and am in the clear which leads me to my next question.

How should I properly clean the housing after the dive? I understand the rinsing process and keep the o-ring in a ziploc when in storage but how should I clean the housing lens?

I did a quick search and didn't come up with much.

 

[Nemrod]

Thanks for the update, my update, lol, the big race will be delayed as a result of a busted femur.

OK, I use distilled water, or tap water and a clean, new, fresh, moist micro fiber cloth to very gently wipe the lens port on the outside surface. You can clean the inner surface with a lightly moist micro fiber cloth and then quickly wipe with a dry one, same as outside surface. The inside should need cleaning only rarely.

I suggest you gently wipe the lens straight across, do not scrub in circles.

I believe the Ikelite housing has a glass port lens, you should as well be able to use commercial lens cleaners and lens tissue. A substitute for lens tissue is white, unscented, plain old Kleenex tissue.

N

 

[TightLines]

Thanks for the advice Nem and sorry to hear about the femur, that can be a tough one.

While diving on a charter do you typically give your rig a soak in the 'camera' bin then pull it out before getting underway? I have this and a few other logistical matters to work out in this process.

 

[Nemrod]

Thanks for the advice Nem and sorry to hear about the femur, that can be a tough one.

While diving on a charter do you typically give your rig a soak in the 'camera' bin then pull it out before getting underway? I have this and a few other logistical matters to work out in this process.

If I can dunk it in the tank for a rinse then I might, otherwise not. Many boats often have a freshwater hose and I use that, gently spraying the ports and controls--be careful, gently is the key.

If there is no freshwater or the camera tank is full of spit and mask wash and a plethora of colorful Sealife bobbers I just wipe the lens port to keep it from spotting with a clean microfiber cloth and let it go until back in the hotel. I have been known to bring a small bottle of freshwater, drinking water etc, to rinse my lenses or ports.

The boat crews are usually pretty good to me and give me a place up front and let me put a towel down under the windscreen and set my camera up and leave it there. You just have to ask, of course, some boats have camera tables. I do tip them for their extra help and give the impression that I am going to, if you follow. If you give the impression something is important to you they usually try to help.

N

 

[TightLines]

Piecing together my package has been delayed a bit because I pushed out my big trip of the year until January 2011.

Unfortunately I won't be doing anymore local diving until then so I will have to get all of my practice in topside before being in the thick of it.

Could you guys give me an idea of the difference in field of view between the W-20 and something like the Inon 165 WA?

I just want to make sure that I shouldn't being going the bayonet mount route for the macro and WA wet mounts.

I'm going to be traveling to Thailand and would really like to get the photography side of things "right".

 

[TightLines]

Well, spent a couple of hours and came up with the following:

Really the two best options are 67mm threaded mounts and are the following:

Ikelite W-20 giving 90 - 100 degrees FOV
Fisheye UWL-04 zoomed slightly giving 130 degrees FOV

Now the real question, is the Fisheye worth the extra size (flying to Thailand and other annual out of the country trips) and the extra $80?

Anyone have either one used? hehe

 

[FrankPro1]

Really the two best options are 67mm threaded mounts and are the following:

Ikelite W-20 giving 90 - 100 degrees FOV
Fisheye UWL-04 zoomed slightly giving 130 degrees FOV

Has there been any compatibility testing of the Fisheye UWL-04 with the S90/Ike setup?

 

[TightLines]

I could only find one real case but check out the post from Ryan on the thread below:

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/ca...te-housing-first-impressions.html#post4878348