Small Compressor for Scuba Shack

[pescador775]

Jimmer, the Coltri has a few quirks but for 1500 dollars you should snap it up.

Expect to intall 100 hour service kits and to keep an eye on the oil quality. If the compressor is to be inactive for extended periods the oil should be changed beforehand. Otherwise, the bottom stage could be subject to corrosion.

Don't use the compressor to maintain large banks at very high pressure. For certain applicaitions it might be advisable to add an in line filter.

The Coltri block has fairly good support in the USA depending on the dealer. Not sure about Canada. Ray is knowledgable about the machines and is a member of SB.

The output of the Coltri is actually about 3.2 SCFM (FAD @ standard conditions) when run at the higher rpm. The "SCFM" currently used in SCUBA compressor advertising is arbitrary and does not represent any scientific standard and does not indicate compressor performance when subjected to objective tests.

The Coltri is not a toy but also is not a Bauer Oceanus. IMO

 

[Mr.X]

Sorry for the hijack, but what is the consensus on the small Coltri compressors? I have seen one locally that claims 12 hours use, and the guy wants $1500 for it.

Pleeez tell us your source - so that I can bid for it too!!!!

1500.00 sounds like a very good deal for a small compressor.

If anything the consensus seems to point towards Bauer units. More research and looking towards a Oceanus. Heck, I imagine I'll have diving friends at the Scuba Shack...so why not go bigger!

Cheers and thanks fellas.


X

 

[Jimmer]

PORTABLE SCUBA COMPRESSOR FOR SALE - Toronto Sports Goods For Sale - Kijiji Toronto
Have at it Mr. X. I dont really have a need for a compressor, as much as it would be nice to own one. I think I'd be better off with a booster, so I'm looking down that route a bit.

Pleeez tell us your source - so that I can bid for it too!!!!

1500.00 sounds like a very good deal for a small compressor.

If anything the consensus seems to point towards Bauer units. More research and looking towards a Oceanus. Heck, I imagine I'll have diving friends at the Scuba Shack...so why not go bigger!

Cheers and thanks fellas.


X

 

[rcontrera]

The Coltri machine is a good little worker if you take care of it. The biggest problem with these has been their terrible manual. When it first came out in the early 90s, it had a typo on the oil change chart and listed it as 250 hours. It was supposed to be 25 hours.

Since the forth stage sits in an oil bath, dirty oil would eat grooves in the cylinder, cause blow by and inject water into the oil. Then, when not running, that water would go right to the bottom of the sump which was where the piston sits. A little water leak by the piston grooves and there is water on the valve and pretty soon no valve/spring!

If you get that $1500 dollar Coltri, pick up some synthetic oil and a 100 hour service kit (2nd, 3rd and 4th stage valves, springs and gaskets, replacement seats for the condensate drains and relief valve as well as an inlet filter cartridge).

I am kind of anal about oil changes so take the following with that in mind. Change the oil and install the service kit. Run for about an hour or at least long enough to get the oil hot and then change it again. At about 5 or 6 hours, change again. Each time you change the oil, watch for whatever flushes out. Do this for a few times until there is almost no difference in the new and the 5 hour old oil. Then you can shift to 25 hours or every year ... whichever comes first.

 

[Mr.X]

Thanks guys. Jimmer - I was kidding! However, I will look at it carefully and make inquiries shortly. Not being able to see it in person, plus having zero skills with gas engines, steel tubing...in short anything like a compressor may opt for new electrical, or seek mechanical/compressor repair advice in my local area. Again, thanks fellas for the education.

X

 

[Jimmer]

Ray, what is the max pressure of this little Coltri? How hard would it be to swap out the gas engine for a 240 volt single phase?

 

[tlawler]

The Coltri machine is a good little worker if you take care of it. The biggest problem with these has been their terrible manual. When it first came out in the early 90s, it had a typo on the oil change chart and listed it as 250 hours. It was supposed to be 25 hours.

Since the forth stage sits in an oil bath, dirty oil would eat grooves in the cylinder, cause blow by and inject water into the oil. Then, when not running, that water would go right to the bottom of the sump which was where the piston sits. A little water leak by the piston grooves and there is water on the valve and pretty soon no valve/spring!

If you get that $1500 dollar Coltri, pick up some synthetic oil and a 100 hour service kit (2nd, 3rd and 4th stage valves, springs and gaskets, replacement seats for the condensate drains and relief valve as well as an inlet filter cartridge).

I am kind of anal about oil changes so take the following with that in mind. Change the oil and install the service kit. Run for about an hour or at least long enough to get the oil hot and then change it again. At about 5 or 6 hours, change again. Each time you change the oil, watch for whatever flushes out. Do this for a few times until there is almost no difference in the new and the 5 hour old oil. Then you can shift to 25 hours or every year ... whichever comes first.

Ray,

I have heard that there is an issue with the bearings on the conn rod lower ends wearing on the softer metal of the crankshaft. Is this also just a problem with infrequent oil changes or do you see it as a design flaw? Has the design been changed in newer blocks? Also, what is your price for the 100 hour service kit?

 

[rcontrera]

I have set up a LOT of the little guys for 4500 PSI for paintball and SCBA. However, the higher the pressure, the shorter the expected lifetime. I have only been selling these for a few years so I haven't seen a full failure on them yet (other than lack of normal upkeep).

There was a re-design somewhere around 1995 and they included a hardened ring on the crank shaft to act as an inner race ... at least that is what Carlo Coltri said last year at the DEMA show. I have to take him at his word as I haven't seen any failures like you mentioned ... so far.

100 hour kits are fairly cheap (about $150) and have all the valves, springs and gaskets for the 2nd, 3rd and 4th stages as well as the 4th stage head, inlet filter and the seats for the manual condensate drains and the relief valve.

Changing the engine out for a motor can be simple or problematic ... depending on where you get your motor. If you just pick one up from your local motor shop, be prepared to re-drill the mounting plate and maybe even re-manufacture the belt guard. We get motors locally as well for the bigger compressors which is no problem since there is a lot or extra room in the belt guard. But thee little guys are made for a European built 220 motor that is compact and has the same bolt pattern as the Honda engine.

I hope that got everybody!

 

[reefrider@att.net]

The older or new Coltri are basicly all the same. True they are 4 stage units but the 4th stage sets at bottom and if any water in system or bad oil the piston will give way. I have worked on a lot of compressors and fine that Bauer is the best bang for the buck. As creg said Utilus 10 is good because basicly due to the split frame motor mount but other then that they are the same as the new JR's. Most of the small units come with a small breathing air filter lasting from 10 to 22 tanks depending on what the outside temp is 60 degrees or 90 degrees. I do like the Bauer P0 system better then most. AS TO REPAIRS, YOU CAN GET PARTS FOR MOST ALL OF THEM. I buy parts from compairsupply@att.net in Dania, Fl. Good Luck