SM bottle CAM band clipping prevent tanks from flopping to side, when going sideways

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v101

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Wanted to get everyones opinion/help on ways you have used to prevent your SM bottles from flopping to side in the rear when going side-ways, or flying down when you go upside down.

For instance my setup is a modified SMS 100, i have my cam bands 4" from the bottom of the tanks (diving worthington's LP 85's cave filled) or worthington HP 100's.
I mount them to the rear door handles on the SMS 100.

The problem is if/when I go sideways in a cave to get through a smaller area, the bottle always flys out in the rear back side, due to the length of the leash in the back. If going upside down the bottles then fly down, so same problems.
Problem is that when I am near a side wall, the bottle sometimes hits the side of the side wall of the cave. same situation occurs when wreck diving.. the bottle can fly out in the rear and hit something in the wreck sometimes kicking up un-desired silt, etc.

So Id like to hear what others have done to prevent the bottles in the rear from flying out if/when you go sideways. There have been a few ideas on this, one is to use another bolt snap, and clip to the Waist D-Ring in addition to the rear D-Ring.

Some keep the leash very short, and clip it to the waist d-ring but other harnesses are different.
 
This is a drawback of the door handles and why I prefer D rings but I'm sure more Florida guys can chime in. The steps I've used to overcome this is to move the cam band up and tighten the neck bungee so they are unable to move around as much. I've also used bungee on the leash for SMS 75 and 100. I'm curious for other solutions.


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This is a drawback of the door handles and why I prefer D rings but I'm sure more Florida guys can chime in. The steps I've used to overcome this is to move the cam band up and tighten the neck bungee so they are unable to move around as much. I've also used bungee on the leash for SMS 75 and 100. I'm curious for other solutions.




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I am with you, I hate rails and tank leashes for this purpose. Carrabiners and egg beaters keep your tanks in place close to your body, no matter what orientation you have.

FWIW, I got rid of cam bands years ago. I have had them slip and fail all too often. I use large hose clamps. (think about it, we use it for stages all the time, why not sidemount tanks)
 
Agree with Karstdvr, I use hose clamps on dedicated SM tanks and cam bands on my travel rigs.


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Agree with Karstdvr, I use hose clamps on dedicated SM tanks and cam bands on my travel rigs.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I use Hose clamps for my permanent cylinders and also for travel, they're lighter to travel with and take seconds to put on a cylinder when travelling.... slip it over, into position, tighten up... job done and nicely secure. I don't see any benefit to Cam Bands other than no tools to adjust.... but they shouldn't need adjusting, you know where they need to be for your setup right? I know i do.
 
I've never taken the clamps traveling, certainly way lighter/smaller. I use the highland bands which I don't need to remove the stages to slip the bands/clamps on. No screwdriver needed.

Stu, do you bring a tool with you? Even with a tool, the clamps would be far lighter. And once set up they would be good for 2 rec dives......mmmm.


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I've never taken the clamps traveling, certainly way lighter/smaller. I use the highland bands which I don't need to remove the stages to slip the bands/clamps on. No screwdriver needed.

Stu, do you bring a tool with you? Even with a tool, the clamps would be far lighter. And once set up they would be good for 2 rec dives......mmmm.


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To be honest, yes I do keep a screwdriver in my spares box, but usually wherever I'm renting cylinders from hand me a screwdriver with the cylinders anyway.
 
I travel with a pair of hose clamps and a nut driver tool with which to tighten them. They are easy to install and more secure than cam bands.


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hose clamps or cam bands should make much of a difference, but the issue is the tanks will be allowed to fall the length of the bungee and or the length of the clip. The only way to stop them from falling when you go upside-down is to clip them to your waist strap before you flip upside down, or leave them there permanently. I have changed my setup to use a drop d-ring often used for underneath counterlungs and similar to the razor drop rings for their purse, very short leashes, then take the loop bungee and go under and around the valve to the inside and attach it there. This puts rotational torque on the bottles and rolls them up and into you, same way the razor/stealth guys handle their aluminum tanks. Unfortunately this only works with relatively light bottles, my HP120's are about the limit, most of the big 8" tanks won't work like that. I think the 121's might be light enough to do it, but LP104's, Worthington HP100's etc are too heavy and have to be hung. You're pretty much sol with those bottles imho
 
The only way to stop them from falling when you go upside-down is to clip them to your waist strap before you flip upside down, or leave them there permanently. .....but LP104's, Worthington HP100's etc are too heavy and have to be hung. You're pretty much sol with those bottles imho


The beauty of the system I use, even though it is old school, and long since forgotten, I have none of the problems you are describing. Big tanks, small tanks, inverted, sideways- no adjustments need be made, and everything stays in place
 

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