Shortage of hot dipped galvanized tanks in the US?

[Eric Sedletzky]

Use a small stainless wire brush if you need to.
You can spray some of that cold galvanizing compound into a little paper cup and let it evaporate a little bit to thicken up, then you can use a small brush and brush it on those spots.

 

[Bearded Diver]

Exactly. I paid a bit more than that for 2 new Faber HDG HP120s (~$700 total) a few years back. And last year I paid a lot less ($400 total) for 4 PST HDG HP100s.

$600 for one is nuts. The Rustoleum solution sounds a lot nicer for just a cosmetic upgrade.

I agree on the Rustoleum solution

 

[Gallienus53]

I agree on the Rustoleum solution

Wonderful, I live in an apartment and don't want to rent a workshop merely so I can "maintain" my painted tanks. Currently Google & AI say that Galvanized tanks are no longer made as the polyurethane coatings are better and more environmentally sound. But if I have to refinish the tank frequently it sounds like simply buying paint and renting space will be more impactful than a tank which doesn't rust as much.

Online research also warns that if acidic foods are placed on the galvanized surface then high Zinc consumption may result. While Zn is not harmful, excessive levels may not be best for health.

Also when I contacted a major dive supplier they said that the triple coated & polyurethane coated were the same as "galvanized". I guess they're being dishonest just to sell painted steel tanks?

 

[RIHappyDiver]

Wonderful, I live in an apartment and don't want to rent a workshop merely so I can "maintain" my painted tanks. Currently Google & AI say that Galvanized tanks are no longer made as the polyurethane coatings are better and more environmentally sound. But if I have to refinish the tank frequently it sounds like simply buying paint and renting space will be more impactful than a tank which doesn't rust as much.

Online research also warns that if acidic foods are placed on the galvanized surface then high Zinc consumption may result. While Zn is not harmful, excessive levels may not be best for health.

Also when I contacted a major dive supplier they said that the triple coated & polyurethane coated were the same as "galvanized". I guess they're being dishonest just to sell painted steel tanks?

To give you an idea of the longevity of Faber painted tanks here are 2 LP85s and an HP100 (this is a 3180 + 10% beast of a tank) that I purchased used, and dived them quite a bit before selling them. The 85s were born in ‘06, the 100 in ‘99. To the best of my knowledge, they were never touched up. When I sold them they looked used, but not to the point where they were in need of cosmetic repair. Also remember that, for the most part, cosmetics is what is being discussed here.



Erik

 

[lexvil]

Wonderful, I live in an apartment and don't want to rent a workshop merely so I can "maintain" my painted tanks. Currently Google & AI say that Galvanized tanks are no longer made as the polyurethane coatings are better and more environmentally sound. But if I have to refinish the tank frequently it sounds like simply buying paint and renting space will be more impactful than a tank which doesn't rust as much.

Online research also warns that if acidic foods are placed on the galvanized surface then high Zinc consumption may result. While Zn is not harmful, excessive levels may not be best for health.

Also when I contacted a major dive supplier they said that the triple coated & polyurethane coated were the same as "galvanized". I guess they're being dishonest just to sell painted steel tanks?

It is what it is, if you want new tanks you get what they make, if you must have HDG there are a lot of used ones available. For painting you don’t need to rent a space, just find a reasonably open area and do it. You can also do a Dexter “room” inside the apartment.

 

[Belzelbub]

Currently Google & AI say that Galvanized tanks are no longer made as the polyurethane coatings are better and more environmentally sound.

Just a clarification. The polyurethane coatings may be better than some other paints, but not really better than HDG. I have 6 HDG tanks, two I bought new a couple years ago. The rest I bought used. The used tanks are 26 and 33 years old. Rust is non-existent. Cosmetically, they have the used galvanized look. Mostly uniform except for where some stickers have been for a while. Two had the big Nitrox bands on them for a while (they sat for 8-10 years) until I removed them.

Paint quality on tanks can vary. I also have two AL80s. One Catalina, one Luxfer. I decided to strip them. Mainly because the Catalina paint job was looking rough. Used Citri-Strip on both. The Catalina paint bubbled and came right off with one application and touchups on a couple stragglers. The Luxfer was much tougher. That took multiple applications and a pressure washer to finally get it stripped

I wouldn’t strip steels as they need something. Rustoleum would be good, cold galvanize is another option.

Online research also warns that if acidic foods are placed on the galvanized surface then high Zinc consumption may result.

Odd research. Just don’t place your orange slices on your HDG scuba tanks before eating them.

 

[Divin'Papaw]

Currently Google & AI say that Galvanized tanks are no longer made as the polyurethane coatings are better and more environmentally sound.

More environmentally sound ... absolutely. Better ... that is a value judgement and depends upon your criteria. If your criteria is the manufacturing process being more environmentally friendly, poly coated tanks are better. If your criteria is resistance to corrosion and longevity of the finish (which is what most divers care the most about), they are not.

Online research also warns that if acidic foods are placed on the galvanized surface then high Zinc consumption may result. While Zn is not harmful, excessive levels may not be best for health.

Why exactly would you be eating food off of your tank? Literally never happens!

Also when I contacted a major dive supplier they said that the triple coated & polyurethane coated were the same as "galvanized". I guess they're being dishonest just to sell painted steel tanks?

Of course they will say that as the poly coated tanks are all they can get and sell. They may even believe that. But they are not the same. The only thing that is the "same" as a HDG tank as another HDG tank.

It is what it is, if you want new tanks you get what they make, if you must have HDG there are a lot of used ones available. For painting you don’t need to rent a space, just find a reasonably open area and do it. You can also do a Dexter “room” inside the apartment.

Spot on. If you want new, you can only buy what is available. If you really want HDG, you're stuck finding a used one.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

I see too many people think of new painted tanks as being as precious as a new car paint job and they can't stand the thought of them with one mark, ding, or chip. Some people are show car fanatical.
To me tanks are more of a work truck or equipment trailer, they are meant to be worked and used.
After a few years if there are chips and scratches just brush touch them. The bigger worry is internal rust by somebody's wet fill or crappy compressor.
Externally, the bigger worry is rust forming under a boot. Always remove the boot periodically and make sure no rust bubbles are forming. If there are rust blisters pop them and flake out the bad area until you reach solid paint. All a blister will do is hold salt water and accelerate the corrosion process. The worst thing you can do is be scared to pop it and just leave it alone to form a deeper pit just because you don't want a blemish on your painted tank.
I'd rather dive a beat up tank with character than a pristine brand new tank anyway.
I used to be in the auto body industry, I know how people think.

 

[Still Kicking]

I see too many people think of new painted tanks as being as precious as a new car paint job and they can't stand the thought of them with one mark, ding, or chip. Some people are show car fanatical.
To me tanks are more of a work truck or equipment trailer, they are meant to be worked and used.
After a few years if there are chips and scratches just brush touch them. The bigger worry is internal rust by somebody's wet fill or crappy compressor.
Externally, the bigger worry is rust forming under a boot. Always remove the boot periodically and make sure no rust bubbles are forming. If there are rust blisters pop them and flake out the bad area until you reach solid paint. All a blister will do is hold salt water and accelerate the corrosion process. The worst thing you can do is be scared to pop it and just leave it alone to form a deeper pit just because you don't want a blemish on your painted tank.
I'd rather dive a beat up tank with character than a pristine brand new tank anyway.
I used to be in the auto body industry, I know how people think.

i have never seen any blistering or excessive rusting on the current Fabers and I have looked at thousands. Scratches, yes; anything to worry about, no. Faber's current paint process is exceptionally effective.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

i have never seen a blistering or excessive rusting on the current Fabers and I have looked at thousands. Scratches, yes; anything to worry about, no. Faber's current paint process is exceptionally effective.

Yes, paint technology has soared in quality across all fields. Now, epoxy technology has taken over.
It's by default DTM (direct to metal) with the highest adhesive factor on all metals (except gold).
Think of octopus "tentacles" that microscopically reach into every crevasse and lock in. These tentacles are incredibly strong too with unsurpassed tensile strength.
The epoxy resins they use are water proof, oxygen proof, and combined with zinc dust to make the body of the primer not only does epoxy have an extremely fine, tight, and extremely strong molecular structure, you add in zinc dust and you have a sacrificial metal added. It's a win win all around. And not only that it's repairable with a LKQ material, unlike HDG which is a process that you can't duplicate at home.
The top color coat is just for coloration, the primer is actually all of your rust protection. The top coat also covers the primer for UV resistance since bare epoxy has very little UV resistance on its own.
But if you use a true Aliphatic linear polyester urethane topcoat such as a 1:1 marine paint like Awl Grip, that is about the toughest topcoat known and will last for decades.