Settings for Nikonos-V Macro & Close up sets

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for macro with your NIk V and 105 the TTL will work a charm.

On the close up with the stick and framer use infinity for focus and f16

With the extension tubes use minimum distance and f22
 
joewr:
Hi, 'Diver,

Iso 100 will almost surely give you overexposures. My suggestion: get some frosted plastic--over here we can get such stuff at Tap Plastics, but I do not know about Cairo--and tape it over the strobe. It will not change the spectrum of light, but will cut down on the intensity. You can do some experimenting to discover what will work by putting on one layer, two layers, etc. until you get the correct exposure. Basically, what you are doing is diffusing the light until you get just the right amount.

You are in untested waters-for me--and I think you need to do some exploration.

joewr

Hi Joe,

Yeah, I think I'll try that, I heared that a Pringles cap works just perfect as a diffuser :)
 
Is there such thing as a neutral density lens filter? Thats what I would do on land to cut to down on the light if I couldn't change ISO.

I've never shot a Nikonos, so I don't know what your options are.

Dave
 
AUTiger:
Is there such thing as a neutral density lens filter? Thats what I would do on land to cut to down on the light if I couldn't change ISO.

I've never shot a Nikonos, so I don't know what your options are.

Dave

Hi, Dave,

There are filters that can be used on a Nikonos, but they are a bit of a pain to change underwater. The most commonly used one was/is a red/orange filter to help the white balance. It is much easier to temper the flash by slipping on a diffuser.

The Nik V was once the Mercedes of uw cameras, but digital photography probably spelled the end of its pre-eminance. There was a time when my Nik V would be the only camera on board a dive boat...now one has be careful that his camera is not destroyed by the rush to put cameras in a camera rinse tank!

joewr
 
joewr:
The Nik V was once the Mercedes of uw cameras, but digital photography probably spelled the end of its pre-eminance. There was a time when my Nik V would be the only camera on board a dive boat...now one has be careful that his camera is not destroyed by the rush to put cameras in a camera rinse tank!

joewr

====================================

Ain't THAT the truth !! ...Felt like a dinosaur the last time I took my Nikinos V on a liveaboard (2005). Used to be that E-6 processing was available on most of the liveaboards but that year the crew informed me that there wasn't enough demand to justify keeping the dark room going. That meant I had to shoot the entire trip "blind", not knowing what I had gotten until I got home and had the slides deveopled. Sitting there every night watching all the digital photographers oohing and ahhing about their shots really got me thinking. I went ahead and made the move to digital but still have my entire Nikonos V set-up, complete with UW Kinetics hard case. Will probably never use it again ...shame !!
 
Footslogger:
====================================

Ain't THAT the truth !! ...Felt like a dinosaur the last time I took my Nikinos V on a liveaboard (2005). Used to be that E-6 processing was available on most of the liveaboards but that year the crew informed me that there wasn't enough demand to justify keeping the dark room going. That meant I had to shoot the entire trip "blind", not knowing what I had gotten until I got home and had the slides deveopled. Sitting there every night watching all the digital photographers oohing and ahhing about their shots really got me thinking. I went ahead and made the move to digital but still have my entire Nikonos V set-up, complete with UW Kinetics hard case. Will probably never use it again ...shame !!

'Slogger,

Lemme get us a couple of beers and we can sit 'n' weep over the good 'ol days. I had exactly the same experience on Matangi Is. in Fiji. There I was with my film camera whilst a digital photographer sat at his dinner table, laptop on the table, and slide show working full blast. Meanwhile, I had to wait a couple of weeks to find out what my pictures looked like. That began my research into digital cameras. It took awhile because I had to wait until Nikon came out with the D100 and Subal had created the housing for it...that was my choice since, at the time, I was using a Nikon F100 with a Subal housing, the setup that replaced my faithful Nik V.

I still have my Nik V and my Nik III on a shelf in my home office and look at them fondly from time to time. And I still like the photos I took with them, but to share them on the net, I have to drag them from an album and scan them...a pain compared to slipping in a CD into my computer...

Have another brew, 'Slogger...

joewr
 
RedSeaDesertDiver:
I'm trying to practice more and more with my new Nikonos-V system and I need to get some help on the best practices for setting the 28mm lens Aperture and distance when using the Close-up and macro sets along with an ISO-100 fils and SB-105 speedlight, and setting the shutter to M90.

The SB-105 Guide Numbers I can find on the web are all over the place. But Ikelite rates the brightness as a match for the DS-125. And since I have an exposure chart for that strobe.....

For a rough guide with this strobe and ASA 100 film at one foot would be f-22. At 2 feet, f-16. A 3 feet, f-11. At 4 feet f-8. At 6 feet, f-5.6. At 8 feet, f-4. If the visibililty is bad you will have to open up a bit more, especially as the distance opens up. If the subject is highly reflective, such as a silver fish, you'll have to close down a bit.

For your first trips i would suggest print film. It has a larger dynamic range, just find a pro shop to print some _uncorrected_ prints to evaluate your exposures.

Film isn't dead. I have engoyed the new Velvia 100 (not 100F) on several dive trips, getting more than satisfactory results.
 
Hey, 'Slogger,

I dug this photo from the archives...geez, it is only 6 years old. My goodness, has photography come a long way in 6 years! At any rate, this was taken of me whilst diving Truk Lagoon:



Ah, the good ol' days...

joewr
 
i read a couple of jim/cathy church books on the nikonos. they basically say to set shutter to 1/60, strobe to ttl, and use the guide number to determine aperture.

i assumed: for macros, i figure the DOF is the limiting factor, thus making aperture the fixed value at f22. then i set the camera to A mode and the strobe to TTL. i assume the camera would then adjust the exposure by controlling the strobe, based off the iso setting. is this not the case? it seems so much easier than using the guide number.

when i shoot digital on land, i'm almost always on aperture priority mode to control the DOF i wanted (but also checking that the shutter is within range). aaahh, i forgot A mode on the Nik V is fixed shutter. still, controlling the strobe duration should be good enough.
 
let me ask again since my question wasn't obvious inside the paragraph.

when using the closeup kit or extension tubes, can i just use A mode, iso 100 (for iso 100 print film), sb105 to TTL, and practically point-n-shoot?

thanks!
 

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