Settings for Nikonos-V Macro & Close up sets

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

RedSeaDesertDiver

Registered
Scuba Instructor
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Location
Egypt
I'm trying to practice more and more with my new Nikonos-V system and I need to get some help on the best practices for setting the 28mm lens Aperture and distance when using the Close-up and macro sets along with an ISO-100 fils and SB-105 speedlight, and setting the shutter to M90.

Thanks a million.
 
Hi,

It has been ages since I used my Nikonos V, but I think I can help you. That said, what I would like to suggest is that you get a cc of this book:

"The Nikonos Handbook" by Jim and Cathy Church

It was and, I think, still is the best guide book for Nikonos users.

Here is what you do:

1. Lubricate the O-rings and mating surfaces and put O-rings in place
2. Attach lens to tube
3. Attach focal framer to extension tube
4. Attach extension tube to camera
5. Preset aperature
6. Preset focus for MINIMUM distance

In regard to 5, the most common aperature setting is f/22 since you will have plenty of light with the strobe so close to the subject.

I hope this helps.

joewr
 
Hi, again,

One more issue to note. I have not bought film in many years and, so, do not know what is commonly available now. However, you may find that iso 100 is too fast unless you can set the strobe for its lowest light output. I used to use iso 25 or 64. If they are still available, try them. Remember, that strobe is very close to the subject.

One more thing...I used the Auto setting for exposure time...you are really testing my memory!

joewr
 
...everything Joewr said with underline/caps on the ISO recommendation. I too retired my Nik V set up quite a while ago but in the 8 - 10 years leading up to my conversion to digital I shot mostly macro. I had the same lens (28MM) and the Helix tube/framer set. I got the best results with the Fuji Velvia (ISO 50) on my macro shots. Strobe angle is critical and if you're using the Nikinos arm you need to turn it 180 degrees on the tray to change the bar angle inward.

It's almost point-n-shoot stuff. The trick is finding those tiny critters and getting them to sit still and in the correct position within the framer. Depth of field at F22 is next to nothing so your object needs to be aligned with the framer or it can/will be out of focus.

Good luck ...
 
RedSeaDesertDiver:
I'm trying to practice more and more with my new Nikonos-V system and I need to get some help on the best practices for setting the 28mm lens Aperture and distance when using the Close-up and macro sets along with an ISO-100 fils and SB-105 speedlight, and setting the shutter to M90.

Thanks a million.

set f 22
setting shutter dial at A-with ttl strobe on shutter speed automatically goes to 1/90..
lens focal distance at minimum distance..
hold strobe at distance of 8'' to 11''(depends on how much reflection subject has)
the longer the macro tube the closer you hold strobe too.
My macro shots are mostly with the 35mm lens on 2:1 and 1:1 macro tubes..
use the f stop of f22 for maximum depth of field for when trying to focus close up you would need it..check out photos on my gallery..under each photo it will tell you if it was a digital photo or shot on film..all film images on my gallery done with nikonos 5 either macro or with 15mm lens..
 
Hi all,

Thanks you for the replies guys :)

Joe & Slogger;
I know that the Fuji Velvia 50 is a superb film but unfortunatly it is no longer available in Cairo, where I live :( and the slowest film that I can get over here is ISO-100.
do you think that the pix will be over exposed if I set the speedlight to full with these fast films?

one more thing regarding the distance settings, with both sets, shall I always use the lowest distance? previously I had an advise to set the distance ti infinity, is this correct?

Oly;
I'll try setting the shutter dial at A next dive.

The macro set that I have is the Helix 1:1 tube/frame.

Thanks again guys.
 
RedSeaDesertDiver:
Hi all,

Thanks you for the replies guys :)

Joe & Slogger;
I know that the Fuji Velvia 50 is a superb film but unfortunatly it is no longer available in Cairo, where I live :( and the slowest film that I can get over here is ISO-100.
do you think that the pix will be over exposed if I set the speedlight to full with these fast films?

one more thing regarding the distance settings, with both sets, shall I always use the lowest distance? previously I had an advise to set the distance ti infinity, is this correct?

Oly;
I'll try setting the shutter dial at A next dive.

The macro set that I have is the Helix 1:1 tube/frame.

Thanks again guys.

DO NOT set on infinity..EVERYTHING will be out of focus..again use f22 -it gives you GREATEST depth of field,any f stop other than that will limit depth of field and give you less success of being in focus and probably overexpose image..
 
RedSeaDesertDiver:
Hi all,

Thanks you for the replies guys :)

Joe & Slogger;
I know that the Fuji Velvia 50 is a superb film but unfortunatly it is no longer available in Cairo, where I live :( and the slowest film that I can get over here is ISO-100.
do you think that the pix will be over exposed if I set the speedlight to full with these fast films?

one more thing regarding the distance settings, with both sets, shall I always use the lowest distance? previously I had an advise to set the distance ti infinity, is this correct?

Oly;
I'll try setting the shutter dial at A next dive.

The macro set that I have is the Helix 1:1 tube/frame.

Thanks again guys.

DO NOT set on infinity..EVERYTHING will be out of focus..again use f22 -it gives you GREATEST depth of field,any f stop other than that will limit depth of field and give you less success of being in focus and probably overexpose image..1:1 tube has very short depth of field,around 3/16'' to 1/4'' even with f22.use iso 100 film..with ttl and f22 will NOT overexpose..thats the settings I use on my gallery images,and when you go wide angle you can use the same film..With modern film today advantages using slower iso 64 is overrated..
 
RedSeaDesertDiver:
Hi all,

Thanks you for the replies guys :)

Joe & Slogger;
I know that the Fuji Velvia 50 is a superb film but unfortunatly it is no longer available in Cairo, where I live :( and the slowest film that I can get over here is ISO-100.
do you think that the pix will be over exposed if I set the speedlight to full with these fast films?

one more thing regarding the distance settings, with both sets, shall I always use the lowest distance? previously I had an advise to set the distance ti infinity, is this correct?

Oly;
I'll try setting the shutter dial at A next dive.

The macro set that I have is the Helix 1:1 tube/frame.

Thanks again guys.

Hi, 'Diver,

Iso 100 will almost surely give you overexposures. My suggestion: get some frosted plastic--over here we can get such stuff at Tap Plastics, but I do not know about Cairo--and tape it over the strobe. It will not change the spectrum of light, but will cut down on the intensity. You can do some experimenting to discover what will work by putting on one layer, two layers, etc. until you get the correct exposure. Basically, what you are doing is diffusing the light until you get just the right amount.

You are in untested waters-for me--and I think you need to do some exploration.

joewr
 

Back
Top Bottom