Servicing gear

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getting brass picks because they are soft is a good recommdation..that said my experience has been that these O'ring Pick Set, 5 Pcs. & Storage Tube work AWESOME and for me at least I work better, quicker and don't scratch up the reg pieces.
 
That's going to break the bank right there. anyone want to permanently loan me those books to read? Just kidding... Amazon is being super slow right now for the whole ordering of things.. It must not want my money today... :)
 
getting brass picks because they are soft is a good recommdation..that said my experience has been that these O'ring Pick Set, 5 Pcs. & Storage Tube work AWESOME and for me at least I work better, quicker and don't scratch up the reg pieces.

Those are great picks. I dull the points on all but the straight pick as that is really the only one I use for stabbing. I do most of the work with the double hook pick by sliding down the side of an o-ring and turning it enough to hook under the o-ring. I suggest you buy a 2nd double hook pick for you save-a-dive tool kit.
 
Depending on how my research and reading goes I will decide what I need to buy and such. I am really liking this thought of getting to know how to service a reg though. I also think it's cool that HOG has come to join the conversation, even though I'm not technically qualified to ask the questions I'm asking. At least I don't feel I am.
 
What did you spend to get started?


For the Zeagle, the cost of an IP gauge , three allen wrenches, and a "proprietary" spanner wrench (which I'm going to replace with a superior Home-Spun one). The 1st stage went 5 years before it "needed" a partial overhaul and I see no good reason or (non-medical) excuse to "scratch my reg to hell."
 
That's going to break the bank right there. anyone want to permanently loan me those books to read? Just kidding... Amazon is being super slow right now for the whole ordering of things.. It must not want my money today... :)

You definitely don't want to attempt Amazon on those books...

Regulator Savvy (Spiral Bound)

Scuba regulator savvy: Pete. Wolfinger: Amazon.com: Books

SCUBA REGULATOR MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR by Vance Harlow

Scuba Regulator Maintenance and Repair: A Complete All-Makes Guide to Scuba Regulator Servicing, Troubleshooting, Repair and Tuning: Vance Harlow, Steven W. Lindblom: 9780967887302: Amazon.com: Books
 
That works too. I my old computer doesn't run really well anymore and I can't remember where I left my bag with my iPad in to actually be productive on the internet. Anyways... I shall be reading more now.
 
That's awesome :) I'll bet you have most of it, but will still want to buy things such as a first stage vice handle to make things easier. You may even be able to have one machined cheaply if you know the right folks. I did have some of the tools already, but decided to buy a full set so that I could have a set that goes with me. I do understand about wanting to work on your gear for the reasons you posted, and those are pretty much the reasons that I started.

I had never made a list of what I bought/paid before but here goes:

Face Pin Spanner $7.99
Dive Rite IP Gauge $19.99
First Stage Vise Handle $29.00
Christo-Lube MCG 111, .8 oz syringe $15.00
Dual Drive Inline Adjusting Tool $69.00
Hook Spanner Set, #3 thru #6 $56.00
Hook Spanner #5 (1.5 in. diameter arc) $14.00
Replaceable Pin (.160 dia.) for Hook Spanner $1.80
O'ring Pick Set (2), Soft Brass $13.50
Magnahelic (scubaboard) $106
Bondhus 7mm Hex L-wrench - Long 1 $4
3/8" Drive Torque Wrench $41
Hex Bit Socket Set Metric $14
3/8-Inch Quick-Release Drive Polished Ratchet $12
Heavy Duty 8-Inch Adjustable Wrench ($6.50x2) $13
Ultrasonic Cleaner (Harbor Freight) $64
9 mm socket $4
Shipping $17.00
Total $501

OK, so I was off by a little bit.

A lot of these are nice to have but not really necessary. That is not intended as a criticism but I would not want to discourage people from DIY maintenance based on the cost. Assuming you are already equipped to work on automotive equipment you will likely have the bulk of the tools needed already. Still you are right it may cost more to DIY at least in the short run, but then you may be more likely to get things done right.

There are a few places you can save:
An inline tool is nice, but you can just depressurize your reg and take the hose off. In practice the orifice adjustment rarely takes more than three tries so a in line tool is not saving a lot of time. It might be worth it for a shop tech doing many regulators each day.

The magneheic can be replaced by a sink full of water and ruler.

Not sure that most people need a whole set of hook spanners one should do unless you have multiple types of regulators.

The things I needed were:
Cristolube, $20
Vise, $25
Hook spanner, $10
Thin wall socket for yoke nut, $10
Ultrasonic cleaner, $60
White Vinegar, $3
Steel picks, $8
Total: $136

I do have a set of brass picks but an even better alternative are orange sticks from the drug store. They are wood and even less likely to scratch a critical surface and you can get 10 for $2. I think many of the things you initially think you need you really don’t. That’s true of scuba maintenance gear as well as scuba gear in general.

Also you can go and get all the o-rings you need for about the next 10 years from a local supplier for about $80. That leaves seats and cone filters. Of course some regulators need proprietary parts and then you are pretty much stuck buying the kits.
 
The only thing with o rings is to make sure you get the right durometer. And viton if doing O2 service.

The Parker Seals o-ring catalog is good reference source and they have chemical compatibility ratings. Viton is a good choice for static o-rings, but maybe less so for dynamic due to its abrasion resistance. Scubapro seems to have shifted over the years from nitrile=>viton=>EPDM. Maybe someone else can chime in but I think currently they are using mostly 85 durometer EPDM in the high pressure portion of their regs and 70 durometer viton or nitrile in the low pressure portion, and some polyurethane for dynamic applications. Of course my LDS who has been doing repairs for 50 years seems to use 75 durometer nitrile everywhere smeared with silicone grease. They have done that for decades and it appears they think there is no reason to change.
 

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