I recently got a new steel 100 (my first) and it has the self-draining boot. I haven't been able to find a definitive answer, so: should I trust it? I've always heard it's best to remove the boot and rinse and let dry, especially after saltwater dives. With the self-draining boot, if I rinse thoroughly with the boot on, will it flush and then dry without trapping moisture? I don't want to cause extra hassle for myself for no reason if it does what it claims to do. On the other hand, for an extra few years of tank life I'd be willing to clean it properly. Thoughts..... ?
Self-draining boot
- Thread starter Diver003
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I'd take it off, especially after salt water dives.
As I suspected :cool2:
Not sure since the tank is at the shop getting a fill right now. It's the latest XS Scuba/Worthington design (tank made 03/10). Do certain "self-draining" features make you more or less likely to be concerned about removal and cleaning?
Thanks for the input!
If you're hose rinsing or better yet a combination of rnising and soaking your cylnder after oceean dives you can do what you want. Most if not all divers I know do not remove the boot. If someone really did that and was diving with much ftequency I'd expect more wear and tear on the finnish than any retained salt harm.
In case you LDS does not knock the boot off as part off the VIP it's a good idea to do so annually.
To the what is a self draining question, nearly any modern boot is. The underwater Kinetics version is very common. Vertical grip ribs and an open spider bottom for good rinsing and drying are key features. Some older boots were like rubber cups that were breeding grounds for corrosion.
Pete
In case you LDS does not knock the boot off as part off the VIP it's a good idea to do so annually.
To the what is a self draining question, nearly any modern boot is. The underwater Kinetics version is very common. Vertical grip ribs and an open spider bottom for good rinsing and drying are key features. Some older boots were like rubber cups that were breeding grounds for corrosion.
Pete
I have 3 steel 72s that keep passing hydro from the late 1950s to early 60s. I have self-draining tank boots on them since they were patented by Alan Uke, founder and owner of Underwater Kinetics, in the early 1970s. I only take boots off for hydros. I rinse them with a hose, never a dip tank. They may have seen 10 fresh water dives between all three.
There is minor discoloration of the galvanizing under the boot, but no rust. I suspect the potential damage to galvanizing is greater from frequent boot removal than just leaving them on.
There is minor discoloration of the galvanizing under the boot, but no rust. I suspect the potential damage to galvanizing is greater from frequent boot removal than just leaving them on.
GCS, I have the same boots and tanks.
There are vertical ridges, rounded, each ridge about 1/8" wide and high, and about 1/2" apart that encircle vertically the inside of the boot. The bottom of the boot has both side and bottom holes that easily drain water. There is nothing in the boots to hold water against the tank. I wash my tanks down after each use, and lean the tank over to run the hose hand-gun around the bottom -- you will see the water come up through the top.
I will pull the boot off after salt water dives, about 3 or 4 times a year. Since my tanks are only 3 months old, I see nothing on the tank.
There are vertical ridges, rounded, each ridge about 1/8" wide and high, and about 1/2" apart that encircle vertically the inside of the boot. The bottom of the boot has both side and bottom holes that easily drain water. There is nothing in the boots to hold water against the tank. I wash my tanks down after each use, and lean the tank over to run the hose hand-gun around the bottom -- you will see the water come up through the top.
I will pull the boot off after salt water dives, about 3 or 4 times a year. Since my tanks are only 3 months old, I see nothing on the tank.
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