Securing tanks in a travel trailer.

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swimmer_spe

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Location
Sudbury, Ontario
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I plan on going camping and diving. I have 2 steel 120s that I want to bring. I plan to secure them inside the trailer.

What would you do to ensure they don't move, but still quick to get at and to move everything to use the trailer?
 
i'd build a rack for them and slide them in. allows you to put stuff on top of them and prevents them from rolling around. literally just a 3 sided box with a back end and you can wedge it in wherever you can.
 
If you have them rigged as doubles you can put them on a rubber or other high friction pad and they will just sit there if you lay them down. I've scrapped the outer paint off my LP85s on the rubber bed liner sliding them in and out of my pickup truck bed. They don't move much even doing a really hard stop. If two singles then yeah, you need to rig something.
 
If you have them rigged as doubles you can put them on a rubber or other high friction pad and they will just sit there if you lay them down. I've scrapped the outer paint off my LP85s on the rubber bed liner sliding them in and out of my pickup truck bed. They don't move much even doing a really hard stop. If two singles then yeah, you need to rig something.

They are not doubles. They are singles.
 
I plan on going camping and diving. I have 2 steel 120s that I want to bring. I plan to secure them inside the trailer.

What would you do to ensure they don't move, but still quick to get at and to move everything to use the trailer?

Sounds like it's an RV style trailer? If so, an easy solution I've used in our 5th wheel is to strap the tanks together with cam straps and wedge them in place with a rubber trailer chock that's stored when we're in motion. A rack is probably overkill unless you're using it regularly for diving, plus it messes with your space for other loads.

Works best if you lay two straps down first in a lower compartment. Next lay the tanks perpendicular on top of them, then cinch. I also switch end orientation between tanks so they lock together better and have a consistent width when strapped. Otherwise, the boots will make one end wider. Move a long edge of a tank to a wall or something else solid, then wedge with the chock(s) and pack gear around the tanks. If you're worried about sliding, grab a cheap rubber mat and put it under the whole thing.

With all that said, you may want to consider keeping them in the tow vehicle if the weight distribution makes more sense that way. A lot depends on your tow setup.

Happy Trails,

Lance
 
Sounds like it's an RV style trailer? If so, an easy solution I've used in our 5th wheel is to strap the tanks together with cam straps and wedge them in place with a rubber trailer chock that's stored when we're in motion. A rack is probably overkill unless you're using it regularly for diving, plus it messes with your space for other loads.

Works best if you lay two straps down first in a lower compartment. Next lay the tanks perpendicular on top of them, then cinch. I also switch end orientation between tanks so they lock together better and have a consistent width when strapped. Otherwise, the boots will make one end wider. Move a long edge of a tank to a wall or something else solid, then wedge with the chock(s) and pack gear around the tanks. If you're worried about sliding, grab a cheap rubber mat and put it under the whole thing.

With all that said, you may want to consider keeping them in the tow vehicle if the weight distribution makes more sense that way. A lot depends on your tow setup.

Happy Trails,

Lance


I hate those straps. I use ratchet straps.

It is an RV bumper pull travel trailer. I am not concerned about the weight, as the trailer, even though it is 24 feet long, doesn't feel heavy to my truck.

I don't have the rubber type chocks, but it might be a good thing to get, as those would work.

Here I was thinking of some sort of rack, but your way seems to be quite simple, and cheap.
 
I'd put the in the bed, bottoms up against the cab wall, valves facing rear-word. I use cargo ratchet straps to tighten them against the wall (hook on the bed cleat, and wrap around the valve stem), and soft weights as blocking. Been doing this for decades.
 
Securing? Only going for a 10 minute drive in my class C to the dive site. I wouldn't want to drive cross country with these cylinders up there(that's usually where the keg and tapper go). They do though, all have anti-roll thingies on them.

Let the flaming begin...
 

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