Sea of Cortez Trip Sept 14 – Sept 21
Impetus For This Trip:
I did Costa Rica back in July (still have not finished that dive trip report). I wanted to do more REEF surveying in the Tropical Eastern Pacific. I was reading a dive report for the Sea of Cortez by @mattfish . This led me to check out the Nautilus website. There was a “Super Saver Tab.” It had a 7-day Sea of Cortez trip in a three-person mixed gender room for $1200, aboard the Undersea Hunter. 24 dives, for $1200 dollars is less than I pay for charter trips in Palm Beach County. My wife did not have a problem with the mixed gender thing. So, I booked it. The mixed gender thing turned out to be a moot point, as two other guys were booked in that stateroom.
Nautilus Undersea Hunter
Getting There:
The plan was to fly from Ft Laud to Cabo San Lucas on Friday. Stay at the Casa Bella Hotel (based on a trip report by @scubadada) next to See Creatures Friday night. Do a two-tank morning dive with See Creatures near Cabo Saturday morning. Go back to See Creatures after the morning dive and continue from See Creatures to La Paz to board the LOB (Nautilus Undersea) Saturday night. The following is what happened instead.
Left my house at 1810 Thursday September 12. Since I had a 0651 flight out of Fort Lauderdale, my wife decided it would be easier if we stayed in a hotel in Ft. Lauderdale, instead of driving from Palm Beach Gardens at 0400 in the morning. At this point in time there was a 90% chance of development of a tropical storm hitting Cabos at the same time I was supposed to arrive.
Made it Fort Lauderdale airport at 0545, checked my bag, went through Clear and TSA in less than 5 minutes. Boarded the flight to DFW, made it to DFW uneventfully. Flight to Cabo took off on time at 1321. Captain said parameters were good for landing, but if that changed, we would turn around and return to DFW after stopping in El Paso to refuel. In the meantime, Nautilus had sent out an email saying LOB departure was delayed until Sunday morning instead of Saturday night due to the storm. Reservations had been made in a Cabo Hotel for Saturday night, for all those on the LOB. LOB was in Matazlan Shipyard and could not continue until after storm passed.
Plane went ahead to Cabo and five minutes away from landing, the Cabo airport was closed. Flight was diverted to Tucson where we deplaned and got our luggage. American Airlines put everybody up in the Double Tree Hotel next to the airport. Informed everybody flight would depart Tucson at 0745 for Cabo the next day. Brent another diver doing the LOB trip introduced himself in Tucson Airport, my REEF baseball cap gave me away.
An interesting aside here. When my wife and I got married 34 years ago we lived in Tucson for two years. I had not been back there since we left to move to Florida 32 years ago. It was a little surreal being there unplanned that way. I took the opportunity to go to a favorite restaurant, Casa Molinas for dinner.
Returned to Tucson Airport the next day. Plane was a little late from the 0745 departure, took off at 0830. Arrived in Cabo uneventfully this time. I did have a Nauticam housing for my LX10 and was a little worried about being extorted for tax on the housing. Collected my bags, making it through immigration and customs without incident. However, one of the other divers (Brent who was on my flight) got stopped and harassed about his Sealife Sportdiver housing for iphone, really, an iphone housing? They said a tax of $80 would be required, but then relented and let him go without paying. Another diver aboard with a monster Nauticam rig passed through customs without incident.
Had reservations with Sealine Cabo for pickup to Cabo (thanks @ mattfish). They honored the reservation from the day before. Drove to See Creatures in Cabo. Checked in left my bags, went to have lunch. Came back to See Creatures at 3pm. Transportation was provided to a nearby hotel (my third hotel in three nights), and order taken for dinner at a nearby restaurant. Met all the other divers except for one individual (she joined at La Paz) on the trip at dinner.
Bus picked us up at 0800 at the Hotel in Cabo for ride to La Paz. The LOB was still not in La Paz. Nautilus arranged for two tank charter out of La Paz. This was a little strange. To do the charter dive we all had to take our luggage out and get our dive gear on the sidewalk in front of the Marina. I will talk about the dives, in the “dive section.”
The Shark Express
We did the dives and proceeded back to the marina stopping on the way to watch whale sharks and dolphins (more about that in the dive section). We were informed that LOB was still not in La Paz.
We got off the dive boat and went ahead to Hotel Catedral in La Paz Sunday night 9/15. All our luggage except the dive gear was in our rooms. Delightful hotel. We had dinner at the hotel. Transportation arranged to take us to the LOB at 0830 Monday morning. We left the hotel at 1000am. Proceeded to LOB. LOB had to take stores etc. We finally left the dock at 1400. Considering it was a named storm (Ileana), and the whole trip could have been cancelled, I thought we were still doing okay.
Cathedral Across From Hotel In La Paz
Received an email from Nautilus 09/28. Since the trip had been interrupted Nautilus has offered a 25% of price paid as a credit towards another trip. I am sure I will use it next year.
Getting Home:
Seems like the choice here is to stay an extra day and get an early flight out in the morning or leave in the afternoon of the day the LOB is disembarked. Leaving early in the morning means a hotel stay for a night. Leaving in the afternoon means a red eye back to the east coast of United States.
I left the same day as disembarking. Transportation provided by Nautilus to the airport, on to Cabo from disembarkation at La Paz. Most of the divers were flying out that afternoon. Disembarked the LOB at 0830, the bus was on the road by 0900. Arrived at the airport at 1145. Passed through airport immigration and airport security quickly without incident. Flying home was Cabo to Phoenix. Passed through immigration with Global Entry. No customs check. Phoenix to Charlotte (red eye), Charlotte to Ft Laud. Arrived in Ft. Laud at 0930. All flights were on time without incident.
The Boat:
Boat safety briefing, fire aboard briefing, and dive skiff boarding briefings were done prior to departure. Shortly after departure there was an emergency drill of donning life preservers and moving out to dive area to board skiffs in case of emergency. The boat provides DSMBs and Nautilus Lifeline GPS locators to every diver that does not have one for the duration of the trip. No excuses for getting a lost at sea.
I have only been on a couple LOBs. However, I worked on cargo ships as an engineer for thirty-five years. So, my perspective is different than most individuals frequenting LOBs. For example, if you look at the saloon area below, I had that much space in my own sitting room on the last ship I worked on, not including my stateroom and office. Suffice to say I find the quarters somewhat cramped. But then again, except for taking a shower, using the toilet, changing, and sleeping, little time is spent in the quarters anyway. For how much the trip was discounted, would gladly share a stateroom in the future. Most of my not diving time was at a table in the saloon, going through images, doing REEF surveys, uploading surveys, uploading to inaturalist, and doing ebird surveys. As well as recording my general impressions for each dive.
The cramped living space is made up for by the amount of space provided for dive gear and cameras. Two big camera tables, with all the “unattended” outlets for charging that anybody needs. A tank space between each diver makes it easy to get into and out of one’s gear. I thought the rack for hanging wet suits could be a bit bigger to allow for more space and better drying of the wetsuits between dives. I could see where it might be uncomfortable during cooler months of the year. As it was, I don’t think the air temp was ever much below 80f so, donning wet wetsuits was not a big deal.
Food on the boat was fine. Continental breakfast before the first dive, breakfast after the first dive, lunch after the second dive, snacks after the third dive, and dinner after the fourth dive. Dinners included steaks, tacos, pot roast, hamburgers, and fish. With assortment of vegetables and salad. Lunches were similar, a little lighter. One vegan aboard. Lots of pasta, vegetables, and tofu in that regard.
Divemaster Eli With Undersea Hunter In Background