Scubapro Valve diagram

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The valve came standard with the lever facing forward to reduce the chance of accidental activation, but it was design so it could be easily switch to the more conventional rear facing reserve if desired. I did occasionally had to switch the lever since it did interfere with a double hose regulator.

I have two questions about this valve. My lever faces rear and would like to switch it to the front. Is it just as easy as unscrewing it and moving it forward? Second question, is the reserve now in the up position?
OK three questions.:D When my valve is open, a very small trickle of bubbles come out. Can I just tighten something or does it need to be rebuilt?
 
I have two questions about this valve. My lever faces rear and would like to switch it to the front. Is it just as easy as unscrewing it and moving it forward? Second question, is the reserve now in the up position?
OK three questions.:D When my valve is open, a very small trickle of bubbles come out. Can I just tighten something or does it need to be rebuilt?



Just tightening something will probably not resolve anything since this valve uses O-rings on every seal. An O-ring will probably need replacing, but you haven’t specified where it is leaking from.


Moving the lever to the forward position is very easy. The only thing to keep in mind is that if the lever was in the up position when you remove it you need to put it back in the up position in the front.

In other words, it doesn’t mater if the lever rotates clockwise or counter clock wise, what is important is that the close reserve position is up and the open reserve is down. The easiest way to test the reserve position is to try to fill the tank. It will only fill at full rate with the reserve open (down position). When the reserve is closed (up position) air may leak in but it will not fill at the expected rate.


I hope this makes sense. Good luck.
 
Thank you. It was so easy that now I feel kinda dumb. But hey, better safe than sorry.
 
Hello TravisDude,

Did you also resolve the small leak? Unless something was not torqued down properly, the problem will most likely get worse. If you feel like tackling it yourself pm me with an email address where you can receive a pdf file and I will try to send you the diagram.

Good luck,

Couv
 
If it only leaks when there is a regulator attached and the tank pressure is on, it is probably from the reserve lever area or more likely the top where you access most of the reserve mechanism. In either case it is fairly easy to access this area and can be service with pressure in the tank. Just close the valve and remove the regulator (to make sure there is no chance of building pressure).


A common place for very little leaks is past O-ring #6. It is the small O-ring that form the pressure compensated piston. It is a tiny O-ring (probably the same size as an SPG swivel O-ring, but I have never actually compared them). This O-ring can be a bit of a pain to replace and sometimes just cleaning it and lubricating it solves the problem. A leak past this O-ring only happens during the dive, they tend to always be small leaks and I have never seen them get worst. Sometimes they just stop leaking, but I wouldn’t count on that.

Again this top part of the valve can be easily opened and cleaned by anyone that has any mechanical aptitude. Just make sure the valve is closed and there is no regulator attached.

To remove Item #7 you will have to remove the lever and then unscrew Item #13 and pull Item #9. The blade rotation on Item #9 is what lift the plunger (Item #7), but therefore it also captures Item #7 if you want to remove it in order to clean the O-ring (Item #6).

Good luck
 
Is there something like a "kit" for these valves? I have one that is leaking from the top adjustment screw and it appears to be from the small O-Ring mentioned. I don't have any O-Rings that small on hand. I looked at the ScubaPro web site and it looks like they don't want nobody messing with their gear. I replaced the O-Ring on the fill indicator and that took care of that leak. Also, is the pin that keeps the J-Valve from turning too far supposed to pop out? Mine is stuck in there and it won't pop out at 100 psi which is all I can put in my "test tank" which is a reject tank that I fill with an air-tool type compressor (nobody's gonna breathe it).
 

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