Scubapro S620ti, "super-flow" hoses & swivels

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

You can buy a S620ti with a Mk17, I just did a month ago. Didn't get the chance to test them in the water yet, but I am certainly looking forward to that!
 
I did over 23 hours of diving on my S620ti in Palau. It performed excellent in demanding conditions. It has surpassed my S600 as one of my new favorite regulators.

My S620ti rivals my carbon fiber A700 as my regulator of choice. Now my dilemma is which one to use as my primary or on my pony.
 
Does anybody know if the port placement in the Mk17 allows using a transmitter without a (short) hose?

Whether it allows it or not, I personally wouldn't do it. It won't be long before a helpful friend or divemaster picks up your tank with an assist from that nice fat "handle". There goes $300. I always use a 6" hose.
 
I did over 23 hours of diving on my S620ti in Palau. It performed excellent in demanding conditions. It has surpassed my S600 as one of my new favorite regulators.

My S620ti rivals my carbon fiber A700 as my regulator of choice. Now my dilemma is which one to use as my primary or on my pony.

Could you give us some adjectives. How/in what ways did it surpass your S600? Cheers.
 
I have the S620Ti and S600. Can't tell the difference after about 50 dives on each.
 
It's getting harder and harder to come up with a new bell or whistle on the air side of our gear. With inhalation work of breathing down to a minimum for this case configuration, the "case tweaks" referred to above improved on the exhalation side of work of breathing in the 620ti. Not that you could tell without a machine. But it's might be a helpful improvement at 100ft/4 ata.

A titanium barrel makes for a lifetime part, so there's not much more to improve on. I even have to concede on the plastic orifice and its longevity now.

But just to start an argument (okay, a discussion :stirpot:), I wish they'd go back to a center balanced design like the D-400. Between that valve and coaxial diaphragm/exhalation valve, I sure got used to tuning my second stage to 0.4" cracking effort. It just needed a bigger exhalation valve and better scrotum design for that half of WOB.

Then, make it easier to service than the D-series was (is).

Then, put a ?Silicone? based low pressure seat with a seat-saver spring behind it like Atomic. Never takes a set and starts freeflowing three months after tuning like Scubapro's seat still routinely does for guys that want their cracking effort at the low end of spec.

That'd be just about perfect.
After we settle this, we can start on first stages. :coffee:
 
I would not go for the seat saver bit that separates the orifice from the seat while unpressurized. I soak my regs for hours after salt water use, and I don't want the hassle of having to do so with a tank attached. I've let D300s sit in a closet for 2-3 years, pull them out and hook them up and they work great.

I find the D series very easy to work on with one really big exception, that terrible dive/predive switch. Maybe they could fix that. I definitely agree that the center balanced design is worthy of coming back to life, although given the mentality at SP, I wouldn't hold my breath.

The best breathing one I've ever seen is the pilot, and we'll likely never see anything like that again.
 
I do the same thing with my Atomic seconds - let them sit for hours in the sink. I just keep the first stage on the counter above it, and let the second stage dangle afterwards to drain any water out of the hose, due to the open valve of the seat saver feature.
You're a braver man than I, if you soak your first stages with just the seal that is screwed down between the yoke knob and the filter. I soak firsts that need it on a pony tank. But then my Atomic firsts don't need anything but an exterior rinse since they're sealed. It's why I won't use the Mk25: you can't seal it, and I go nuts when I service other guys pistons, and the o-ring land is all scratched from coral sand that has gotten stuck in the little space at the edge of the piston. I even seal my Mk10 with a DIY SPEC boot. It'll last forever!
 

Back
Top Bottom