coldstroke
Guest
If anyone has and would share a SP R108 High Performance regulator manual with me , I would appreciate it very much. I just cannot figure it out. Please PM me. Thank you.
Scubapro R108 High Performance -manual
- Thread starter coldstroke
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R
redacted
Guest
Let me know if you find one. The 108 is the predecessor to the R190. They share a number of key parts including the demand valve body, LP seat, demand valve stem, spring, and nyloc nut. My 108 has a fixed orifice so all tuning is done with the nyloc nut. My buddy has one with the adjustable orifice and we tuned it just like an R190. We tightened the nyloc nut until 1 to 2 threads were showing and then set cracking pressure by adjusting the orifice.
superstar
Contributor
coldstroke,
The 108 is so simple you don't need a manual. Watch this cheeze video on assembling a 380 and you will see how easy it is. The 108 is easer than the 380 to work on. In my opinion it was the best 2nd stage ever made.
YouTube - Brad's helmet cam, Scubapro R380
The 108 is so simple you don't need a manual. Watch this cheeze video on assembling a 380 and you will see how easy it is. The 108 is easer than the 380 to work on. In my opinion it was the best 2nd stage ever made.
YouTube - Brad's helmet cam, Scubapro R380
OP
coldstroke
Guest
I watched it but I cannot follw it. I dont know the steps. Can you lead me through step-by-step in writting from taking it apart to rebuild? I am intimidated because it looks so different. I am afraid to take it apart and not be able to put it back together. Ed
It's pretty simple.
1. Remove the two screws holding the retaining ring for the purge cover. They will be either a standard, phillips or hex hed screw - all three were used at various times. If they do no come out easily soak the reg in a 3% solution of hydrocloric or acetic acid to loosen any salt or corrosion.
2. Once the retaining bands are removed, remove the metal purge cover. They are sometimes stuck to the rubber purge cover underneath which is in turn often stuck to the diapgragm which is usually stuck to the metal case if the reg has not been serviced in a while, so proceed carefully and don't tear the diaphragm. Once you get them all off you can peel them apart. The diaphragm will be one of several colors from black to white to off white to orange, red or one of two shades of blue. The silicone diaphragms will all be comparatively flat while the original oldest style rubber diaphragm will have an edge about 1/4" in wide and then a deeply curved section around the flat center section.
Dry rot frequently occurs around the edge of the rubber purge cover where it is clamped between the metal cover and case. A little in isolated spots is ok, a lot around a significant portion of the circumference can cause problems and should be replaced. Inspect the diaphragm as well by stretching it against a backlight to spot any small pin holes. Gently wash the diaphragm with a mild soap to remove any crud and then rinse thoroughly.
3. Inside you will see either an all metal lever or a metal lever with awhite plastic ball on the end (older style) This older style is usually found with the older rubber diaphragm.
4. These older models are likely to have a non adjustable orifice. In either case, remove the hose (if you have not already done so) and look inside the fitting. If it is smooth and chrome plated, you have a non adjustable orifice. If it is flat and slotted for a standard screw driver, you have an adjustabel orifice.
5. Uscrew the inlet fitting from the case with a suitable sized wrench. In some cases, the inlet fitting will come loose before the hose fitting and come out with it. If this begins to occur, just put a wrench on each nut on each side to the line where they separate and take them apart.
6. If the poppet assembly is dirty complete dissasembly is recommended and is done by uncrewing the nut on top of the lever. Pressing up on the poppet assembly with a suitably sized object will remove the tension and if you do this do it before you remove the seat. If the poppet assembly is clean and/or if you lack a new nylock nut, you are better off leaving it assembled.
7. Under the nut will be a washer over the lever which is in turn over a brown resin washer that indexes in the poppet assembly with two arms and has a square hole to keep the poppet stem from rotating . The poppet stem is under spring pressure as the spring lies under the lead of the stem where the seat is held and is sandwiched between the head of the poppet and the aspirator body - be careful not to aluch it across the room when you remove the nut.
8. When you reassemble things, get them in the correct order (spring place on the poppet stem, inserted into the aspirator body, with the poppet stem properly indexed in the square holed brown washer whihc is in turn properly indexed in the aaspirator, followed by the lever, the metal washer and the nut. Again, pressing up on the seat ned of the poppet will ease the tension and make it easier to install the new nyloc nut. There must be threads visible past the top of the nyloc nut, but do not expose more than 1 1/2 threads.
9. At this point replace the seat on the head of the poppet by using a pick to remove the old one and install a new one.
10. If the orifice is removeable it should be removed by screwing it all the way out (you can feel it jump the top thread when it is all the way unthreaded. When this occurs take a relatively soft object (the plastic end of an o-ring pick works well, a plastic piston bullet is even better) and carefully push the orifice back out of the inlet fitting. Change the o-ring around the orifice. If they are older and red, they are often very crispy and will break on removal. If you do not have a new o-ring don't go there under the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" doctrine - but be advised they can leak if not in good condition.
Inspect the orifice by running your finger nail around the sharp edge. Any nicks that can be felt or seen are bad news and mean you need a new orifice.
11. Reinstall the orifice. Screw it all the way to the bottom and then back it off one and a half turns.
12. Carefully remove and relubricate the o-ring that seals the inlet fitting to the case. If you are nto sure you can get it out without damaging it, a light coat of lubricant on top the o-ring will probaby work and is better than damaging a part you don't have a replacement for.
13. Re-install the inlet fitting. Depress the lever to prevent the orifice from potentially cutting the seat.
14. Insoect and lubricate or if needed replace the o-ring in the swivel end of the LP hose. This is a more or less dynamic o-ring that can experience wear as well as exposure to salt and dirt.
14. Adjustment is much easier with an inline adjuster, but can be done in small increments (1/6 to 1/12 turn) with a screw driver, but doing it that way requires the stage to be removed from the hose (with the reg depressurized) to make each adjustment. If the reg freeflows when pressurized, screw it in farther, if it does not screw it out until it does.
15. Once you get it initially set hold the diaphgram and purge covers in place to ensure that it does not freeflow with the cover installed and that it purges easily with minimal depression of the purge. If it freeflows you need to lower the lever height by loosening the nut, if it requires exessive depression of the purge button or will not aggressively purge, you need to raise the lever height by tightening the nut.
On the non-adjustable models what you get is what you get with lever height as it is a single adjustement design. On the adjustable orifice modes it is a dual adjustment system and one adjustment affects the other, so any lever adjustment will most likely require an orifice adjustment.
16. Once the lever is adjusted and does not leak with the diaphragm and covers held in place, reinstall the diaphragm, purge covers and the retaining bands. DO NOT use silicone on the diaphragm as it will cause it to expand. Also make sure all the parts are dry as a wet dipahragm may slip out of the groove during assembly.
Proper ettiquette requires the screw heads to be up so the band with the larger holes goes on top. Later SP used a single part with large hole on one side and small threaded hole on the other and with these you get one up and one down. Scandalous to a purist. Good form also dictates that the hole sin the rubber purge are properly indexed with the upper hole centered - referencing the mouth piece works well to accomplish this - the "S" should be vertical with the arrow pointing down, and finally the joint between upper and lower bands should be in the middle of the case.
17. Once all this is done, turn the orifice in 1/12 turn farther to compensate for the seating groove that will develop in the seat - basically what you end up with is a reg that has an orifice 1/12 turn farther in past the point where any freeflow occurs with a lever that begins to release air with only a very slight depression of the purge button.
Normally when properly adjusted an adjustable orifice model will produce an inhalation effort in the 1.0 to 1.2" of water range but some with a very sharp orifice and very flexible diapgragm will have inhalation efforts as low as .8".
If you are using this on an unbalanced first stage like a MK 2, Mk 3, MK 200 or Mk 2+ be sure to make the adjustment with a full tank of the highest pressure you plan to use or else you will discover that it freeflows slightly with a full tank.
1. Remove the two screws holding the retaining ring for the purge cover. They will be either a standard, phillips or hex hed screw - all three were used at various times. If they do no come out easily soak the reg in a 3% solution of hydrocloric or acetic acid to loosen any salt or corrosion.
2. Once the retaining bands are removed, remove the metal purge cover. They are sometimes stuck to the rubber purge cover underneath which is in turn often stuck to the diapgragm which is usually stuck to the metal case if the reg has not been serviced in a while, so proceed carefully and don't tear the diaphragm. Once you get them all off you can peel them apart. The diaphragm will be one of several colors from black to white to off white to orange, red or one of two shades of blue. The silicone diaphragms will all be comparatively flat while the original oldest style rubber diaphragm will have an edge about 1/4" in wide and then a deeply curved section around the flat center section.
Dry rot frequently occurs around the edge of the rubber purge cover where it is clamped between the metal cover and case. A little in isolated spots is ok, a lot around a significant portion of the circumference can cause problems and should be replaced. Inspect the diaphragm as well by stretching it against a backlight to spot any small pin holes. Gently wash the diaphragm with a mild soap to remove any crud and then rinse thoroughly.
3. Inside you will see either an all metal lever or a metal lever with awhite plastic ball on the end (older style) This older style is usually found with the older rubber diaphragm.
4. These older models are likely to have a non adjustable orifice. In either case, remove the hose (if you have not already done so) and look inside the fitting. If it is smooth and chrome plated, you have a non adjustable orifice. If it is flat and slotted for a standard screw driver, you have an adjustabel orifice.
5. Uscrew the inlet fitting from the case with a suitable sized wrench. In some cases, the inlet fitting will come loose before the hose fitting and come out with it. If this begins to occur, just put a wrench on each nut on each side to the line where they separate and take them apart.
6. If the poppet assembly is dirty complete dissasembly is recommended and is done by uncrewing the nut on top of the lever. Pressing up on the poppet assembly with a suitably sized object will remove the tension and if you do this do it before you remove the seat. If the poppet assembly is clean and/or if you lack a new nylock nut, you are better off leaving it assembled.
7. Under the nut will be a washer over the lever which is in turn over a brown resin washer that indexes in the poppet assembly with two arms and has a square hole to keep the poppet stem from rotating . The poppet stem is under spring pressure as the spring lies under the lead of the stem where the seat is held and is sandwiched between the head of the poppet and the aspirator body - be careful not to aluch it across the room when you remove the nut.
8. When you reassemble things, get them in the correct order (spring place on the poppet stem, inserted into the aspirator body, with the poppet stem properly indexed in the square holed brown washer whihc is in turn properly indexed in the aaspirator, followed by the lever, the metal washer and the nut. Again, pressing up on the seat ned of the poppet will ease the tension and make it easier to install the new nyloc nut. There must be threads visible past the top of the nyloc nut, but do not expose more than 1 1/2 threads.
9. At this point replace the seat on the head of the poppet by using a pick to remove the old one and install a new one.
10. If the orifice is removeable it should be removed by screwing it all the way out (you can feel it jump the top thread when it is all the way unthreaded. When this occurs take a relatively soft object (the plastic end of an o-ring pick works well, a plastic piston bullet is even better) and carefully push the orifice back out of the inlet fitting. Change the o-ring around the orifice. If they are older and red, they are often very crispy and will break on removal. If you do not have a new o-ring don't go there under the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" doctrine - but be advised they can leak if not in good condition.
Inspect the orifice by running your finger nail around the sharp edge. Any nicks that can be felt or seen are bad news and mean you need a new orifice.
11. Reinstall the orifice. Screw it all the way to the bottom and then back it off one and a half turns.
12. Carefully remove and relubricate the o-ring that seals the inlet fitting to the case. If you are nto sure you can get it out without damaging it, a light coat of lubricant on top the o-ring will probaby work and is better than damaging a part you don't have a replacement for.
13. Re-install the inlet fitting. Depress the lever to prevent the orifice from potentially cutting the seat.
14. Insoect and lubricate or if needed replace the o-ring in the swivel end of the LP hose. This is a more or less dynamic o-ring that can experience wear as well as exposure to salt and dirt.
14. Adjustment is much easier with an inline adjuster, but can be done in small increments (1/6 to 1/12 turn) with a screw driver, but doing it that way requires the stage to be removed from the hose (with the reg depressurized) to make each adjustment. If the reg freeflows when pressurized, screw it in farther, if it does not screw it out until it does.
15. Once you get it initially set hold the diaphgram and purge covers in place to ensure that it does not freeflow with the cover installed and that it purges easily with minimal depression of the purge. If it freeflows you need to lower the lever height by loosening the nut, if it requires exessive depression of the purge button or will not aggressively purge, you need to raise the lever height by tightening the nut.
On the non-adjustable models what you get is what you get with lever height as it is a single adjustement design. On the adjustable orifice modes it is a dual adjustment system and one adjustment affects the other, so any lever adjustment will most likely require an orifice adjustment.
16. Once the lever is adjusted and does not leak with the diaphragm and covers held in place, reinstall the diaphragm, purge covers and the retaining bands. DO NOT use silicone on the diaphragm as it will cause it to expand. Also make sure all the parts are dry as a wet dipahragm may slip out of the groove during assembly.
Proper ettiquette requires the screw heads to be up so the band with the larger holes goes on top. Later SP used a single part with large hole on one side and small threaded hole on the other and with these you get one up and one down. Scandalous to a purist. Good form also dictates that the hole sin the rubber purge are properly indexed with the upper hole centered - referencing the mouth piece works well to accomplish this - the "S" should be vertical with the arrow pointing down, and finally the joint between upper and lower bands should be in the middle of the case.
17. Once all this is done, turn the orifice in 1/12 turn farther to compensate for the seating groove that will develop in the seat - basically what you end up with is a reg that has an orifice 1/12 turn farther in past the point where any freeflow occurs with a lever that begins to release air with only a very slight depression of the purge button.
Normally when properly adjusted an adjustable orifice model will produce an inhalation effort in the 1.0 to 1.2" of water range but some with a very sharp orifice and very flexible diapgragm will have inhalation efforts as low as .8".
If you are using this on an unbalanced first stage like a MK 2, Mk 3, MK 200 or Mk 2+ be sure to make the adjustment with a full tank of the highest pressure you plan to use or else you will discover that it freeflows slightly with a full tank.
superstar
Contributor
DA,
Any chance you would put together some detailed how to videos with step by step instructions of the more popular regs like the mk5, mk10, 108, and bal adj.
As my videos may show a general procedure I feel I am laking in knowledge to offer detailed instructions for a diy'er. You would be a natural at this with your knowledge.
Any chance you would put together some detailed how to videos with step by step instructions of the more popular regs like the mk5, mk10, 108, and bal adj.
As my videos may show a general procedure I feel I am laking in knowledge to offer detailed instructions for a diy'er. You would be a natural at this with your knowledge.
Sorry, I do a lot of digital photography, or at least I did before i took my current job, but I don't have a video camera.
R
redacted
Guest
As usual, DA is more help than you can find in a scubapro manual. The only addition I have is if any connection resists loosening, soak it. I got my 108 in a lot of 3 SP metal 2nds (the 108 and two 109s) for $15, including shipping from ebay so you can imagine what they looked like. It took days of soaking just to remove the cover screws. Once you remove all rubber (mouthpiece, exhaust-T, diaphragm cover, and diaphragm) you can enhance the soak if needed. It took me a couple more days to get the demand valve body to surrender to the wrench. Besides simple soaking, I attacked it with hot water and ice (between soaks) to break the corrosion. One nice thing is it is metal, so you can place it face down on the work bench and put some pressure on the demand valve body if necessary. If mine had been plastic, the case would have been toast.
OP
coldstroke
Guest
I appreciate those concise instructions. Thank you for taking the time to help me. Now I can rebuild this beauty. Many other divers believe that the High Performance was one of the better second stages SP produced. I like it as an octopus. Very good job, again.
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Guys, where is the best place to get a dozen or so seats for R108 and which glue is recommended for these?
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