Scubapro Anti-Freeze

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Tekkie

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Hey,
Does anyone know anything about the new Scubapro Anti-Freeze (AF) system for first stages? I searched the net, but everything was in German. Do you know if it can be added on to an existing Mk25 regulator? And if so how much does it cost or is it not avalable in the US yet? Also what is it's recomended temp limit?

Thankz
Tekkie
 
I saw an auction for a conversion kit, so I suppose that it is possible to upgrade an existing MK25 to the MK25AF. I have no information on exactly what this would entail.

The information I can find stated that the MK25AF is only currently being offered for sale in Europe. Details in English may be lacking for some time. You could try to use an online translation utility such as Babelfish to translate the German, but it may be spotty.
 
Thanks for the reply Drew Sailbum I'll see what information I can get from the net.
Thankz
Tekkie
 
What is interesting is if you look at the page 4 of the new 2003 ScubaPro catalog there is a picture of this first stage. It is on the tank that the happy guy has in his right hand. There is no mention of it in the catalog though.
 
scubapro set with MK25AF G250 / R190 Octopus are available in holland and germany for $375.
 
There's a closer picture on one of the ebay auctions. The key features seem to be fins on the body and enlarged ambient ports though there are probably some beefed up TIBs etc inside too.

The freezing effect in cold water doesn't come from the cold water - if it was cold enough to freeze, it would be ice. It comes from the cold created inside the reg by the expansion of gases. Normally the surrounding water is warm enough to dissipate the cold, however, as the surrounding water gets colder, it's ability to do so is reduced, so at a certain point the reg gets cold enough to freeze the water inside the ambient or spring chamber.

That being the case, there are two ways to try and keep the spring chamber from freezing. The traditional way is fill it with something that won't freeze and will keep the water out, so there isn't anything to freeze. However one can also try to speed the transfer of cold from the chamber to the surrounding water to make up for the lower transfer rate, and make sure the water doesn't stay inside long enough to freeze up.

This is the approach Poseidon has taken on the new Xstream, surrounding the mainspring with openings so that there's a constant flow of water though the spring chamber. Looking at the picture, it appears likely that SP is taking this approach too, by adding cooling fins to the reg body and hogging out the ambient ports to increase water flow through the spring chamber.

If that is what they are doing, and it works, it'll be great, because it's simple and clean and will solve one the balance piston's major weaknesses. However, SP has made several previous attempts to come up with a dry anti-freeze system, and the Xstream is still too new to say for sure how successful it is from a cold water point of view. So if I owned a MK25 and was diving cold water I think I'd stick with the silicone for now.

Tekkie once bubbled...
Hey,
Does anyone know anything about the new Scubapro Anti-Freeze (AF) system for first stages? I searched the net, but everything was in German. Do you know if it can be added on to an existing Mk25 regulator? And if so how much does it cost or is it not avalable in the US yet? Also what is it's recomended temp limit?

Thankz
Tekkie
 
One of the only places I saw with information is at www.scubapro.com/ from here pick the country Germany and theres some information in german (go figure). I gess I'll just wait until it comes out in the us.

Thankz anyhow
Tekkie
 
oxyhacker once bubbled...
There's a closer picture on one of the ebay auctions. The key features seem to be fins on the body and enlarged ambient ports though there are probably some beefed up TIBs etc inside too.

<snip good stuff>


Hi Vance, Rob Turner here.

Do you think this is a paradigm shift? It seems we've been this route before and at some point almost everyone decided that keeping the innards dry was better...... Were we all wrong?

R..
 
Your guess is as good as mine! But progress does occur - think how long everyone was pouring silicone in BD's before someone at Apeks realized it could be replaced by a cheap plastic piston, and it worked out so well that it's been retrofitted to a number of existing designs.

You can do all the lab tests and simulations you want, but until the million monkeys in the field get their hands on a reg you never really know how well it will perform in real life. The new regs meet the EC standard, which includes stringent cold water standards, but then best I can recall the old ones did too.

BTW it is interesting to note that the Mk16 is one of the few BDs that has never had a double-diaphragm cold water kit option. They are so rare around here that I don't really have a feeling for how well they do in very cold water, though SP markets them as being suitable for it. However, it is interesting to note that they have an extra row of ports around the spring chamber, probably intended to serve the same purpose as the oversized ports on the later and AF MK25s.

Diver0001 once bubbled...

Do you think this is a paradigm shift? It seems we've been this route before and at some point almost everyone decided that keeping the innards dry was better...... Were we all wrong?

R..
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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