lamont
Contributor
piikki:well, I want rugged, I am a banger... is the above statement correct nowadays? I don't want no test tube babies
so far the only light that i've busted was a 10W. my 18W and 24W lights have been fine.
YMM (clearly) V.
Salvo Cans
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so far the only light that i've busted was a 10W. my 18W and 24W lights have been fine.
YMM (clearly) V.
TSandM:
Thanks Lynne (It is Lynne, isn't it?)
I might give it a try, not sure what difference it might make as Li-Ion packs have more on-board electronics to protect the cells.
Dom
I have recently acquired a pro peak charging system for my dive rite 21 watt. I had issues with the factory charger not charging the battery to a full charge. It seemed like it would charge to fast then the battery would get hot and not hold a full charge until I let it cool down and charged it again(this would take three or four cool down cycles). Now I can slow down the rate of charge (down to .1mA if I so choose) and my battery is now lasting 20 to 30% longer.
As an added bonus the pro peak charger displays the voltage reading of the battery at all times and you can charge NIMH, Li-Ion, or Ni-Cad batteries. It also trickle charges the battery. Which means as it approaches a full charge it slows things down to get every ounce of power out of the battery.
With this setup I can charge fast (and get the same charge as my Dive Rite charger) or slow (and get the most out of the battery). So if you are really up against the wall on dive time with your current battery this could help.
Gillty
As an added bonus the pro peak charger displays the voltage reading of the battery at all times and you can charge NIMH, Li-Ion, or Ni-Cad batteries. It also trickle charges the battery. Which means as it approaches a full charge it slows things down to get every ounce of power out of the battery.
With this setup I can charge fast (and get the same charge as my Dive Rite charger) or slow (and get the most out of the battery). So if you are really up against the wall on dive time with your current battery this could help.
Gillty
As far as durability the salvo definately wins out in lights, actually it wins out in most categories. Mine gets no special treatment and just gets tossed into my dive bag mounted on my plate, and is has been going strong for along time.
Brent
Brent
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Hmmmm ... not sure what the current designs are like, but 3 years ago I worked for a Dive Rite dealer ... and I was pretty surprised at how often their HID lights were coming back to the shop for maintenance and repair. To be fair, DR customer service was very good and took care of the problems, but durability isn't a word I'd have used to describe their lights.Kevrumbo:
My 18W Salvo takes a beating ... those who dive with me can attest that I'm tough on gear ... and although I purchased a spare bulb when I bought the light, I've never had to use it.
Can't say the same for any other HID light I've ever owned ...
... Bob (Grateful Diver)
Kevrumbo
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Okay Bob, here's an objective test: clip-off both light heads to your chest d-ring, go into the Surf Zone and sustain a couple of face plants, barrel rolls & flips with mask/fins/gear ejecting everywhere along the Beach --and see which HID will light up. At the very least, the enclosed head should remain intact while the test tube in the other light head design will probably be shattered. . .
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No need ... Barry pounded a nail into a board using his light head once ... then turned the light on.Kevrumbo:
In fact, he did that at DEMA a couple years back.
Objective or otherwise, I'm simply providing my observations. You can take them for whatever you think they're worth ...
... Bob (Grateful Diver)
Which model have you been using??
Gillty:
Kevrumbo
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And I'm telling you my real life experience here on the Beaches of So. Cal, anecdotal as it may appear. . .NWGratefulDiver:
If I could afford it, I would have the enclosed 10W head for OW Beach and Wreck Diving; and the 18W to 24W test tube type for Cave Diving.
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Good point ... the appropriate choice of light depends a great deal on the conditions under which you'll be using it. But that doesn't make one style inherently more dependable or durable than another.Kevrumbo:
As an example - an enclosed-head 10W design that uses a Welch-Allyn bulb will be inherently less shock-resistant than a test-tube design using a Britestar bulb ... not because of the design of the light head, but because the bulb in the former is more susceptible to shock damage than the bulb in the latter.
My Terkel is an enclosed head 10W design ... and I've broken the bulb in that light twice by accidentally dropping the light head. I've yet to break the bulb in my Salvo, even though I've done the same thing to it on numerous occasions.
... Bob (Grateful Diver)
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