Saba Trip Report Jan 08

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kevink

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
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Location
Philly, PA
Winair from St. Martin offers frequent flights to Saba, and gives you a generous 44kg per person allowance if they know you are divers. This allowed us to bring all of our own gear, including camera housing, strobes, and lights, plus hiking boots and clothes. However, because the planes are small and the runway is short (Saba has the shortest commercial runway), don't overpack. Flight is a memorable 12 minutes. Aerophobes can take the 1hr, 45 min ferry. It is quite a trip coming in on the little plane.

We stayed at the Pirate's Cottage at Scout's place, a 2-bedroom, 1-bath cottage. Accomodations were newer (remodeled in early 2007), clean, and comfortable. Daily maid service was great, and two grocery stores were within walking distance for us to stock the kitchen with snacks and beverages. Air conditioning was not needed -- the steady cool breeze was more than enough to keep cool (we needed sweatshirts at night). We had wireless internet, but it worked best in the restaurant.

The staff a Scout's was very attentive to all of our needs and making sure everything ran smoothly. They handled all of the transportation to and from the airport and dive shop, and were quick to address any problems.

We ate most of our meals at Scout's. The menu was varied and all of the food was good, generous, and reasonably priced. Other restaurants in Windwardside are in easy walking distance -- Swinging Door Saloon has a $16 steak night, and their ribs are great too. Brigadoon has good seafood.

The dive staff at Saba Divers was friendly and professional, and allowed us to run longer profiles when we had more air and bottom time than the guides. Nitrox was free for the entire week, which we used since many of the dives required profiles in the 80-100 foot range.

They took great pains to separate the groups based on ability and interests, even when the total number of divers could have fit in one boat. There can be deep dives in Saba, but there are also shallower sandy bottom dives to be had as well. On three separate days my group of four people had our own boat to tackle some of the more challenging sites, while another boat stayed in to shallower waters.

On the second day of diving we came across 5 gray reef sharks out in the blue near the pinnacle known as the "Needle." This was a welcome sight in the wild without having to feed or chum the waters. Other dives sites varied and included deep pinnacles, walls, patch reefs, and sandy bottoms. We saw turtles and sting rays on nearly every dive. Currents could be strong in some locations, but conditions varied by the hour and day.

While the coral and fish life is better in Bonaire, Saba offers more variety both topside and underwater. As an island, it is pretty comparable to Dominica (lush jungles for hiking, and pretty good diving for the Caribbean), but Saba is much cleaner and friendlier, and the food is much better. For a quiet vacation in a friendly, small community with plenty of diving and hiking, Saba is the place to go. If you are the Beach and Casino type, go somewhere else.
 
Thanks for writing a great trip report.

Can you clarify why the fish life is better in Bonaire? Is there more variety in Bonaire or are the fish in Bonaire bigger?

Thank you in advance. I'm planning a trip to Saba and would love to know.
 
Thanks for writing a great trip report.

Can you clarify why the fish life is better in Bonaire? Is there more variety in Bonaire or are the fish in Bonaire bigger?

Thank you in advance. I'm planning a trip to Saba and would love to know.

I think the variety of species are very comparable. I think overall numbers of fish favor Bonaire. In deference to Saba we did see seven grey reef sharks over two dives. Even the guides agreed was out of the ordinary and it wasn't one of those shark roundup nonsense dives, this was au-natural. Saba also had some gorgeous barrel sponges.

Saba really is what you would expect a caribbean island to be, quiet, lush, not filled with shantys & bars.
 
Thanks for the report, several of us are headed there in June. It should be a blast. As a pilot, I think I'll enjoy the trip in on the airplane.
 
Shark sightings are pretty much a daily occurence here, especially on the pinnacles, believe it or not a juvenile whale shark has been spotted several times on a shallow site.
We are also hearing passing whales while diving.
 
Liquidvisions,

Would you agree with Kevink that the "fish life" is better in Bonaire?
 
Liquidvisions,

Would you agree with Kevink that the "fish life" is better in Bonaire?

I haven't been diving in Bonaire in 7 years so I won't comment on that other than to say Saba's reefs are much different because they are mostly volcanic in origin, but the deep water pinnacles alone make the diving on Saba pretty spectacular and the possibilities of shark encounters are quite good.
 
Thanks liquidvisions.
 

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