Restowing backup lights

[RTodd]

I don't mind hearing it. I've been looking at the Halcyon miniscouts with the LED upgrade anyway, because the PT is too LONG for my short harness straps. But the heavy "corrugation" or whatever you'd call it on the handle of the Halcyon lights looks like it would make this problem far worse.

Can you describe "flipping" the inner tube? I'm not getting a mental picture of this.

I used to think scouts were too long and in the old can light days the smaller one would have helped. But, now that I have learend to deal with everything I don't really see the issue. (My wife is 5' and comfortably uses the standard size lights. Some of the regular GUE instructors claim it helps some people.)

I can't really explain exactly how I put the backups back since I don't even think about it. In general, you simply pull out the innertube with one hand and slide it over the front of the light sort of pulling up with finers and guiding it over with your thumb. With the Halcyon lights it is easier to get it to roll down onto the handle since your thumb is over the body of the light with the tip coming up on the bezel. With the PT lights, they are thicker you have less clearance with your hands and you tend to have to inch it on. Far more trouble. This isn't a huge difference. It is doable with either light, just easier with the thinner handle.

As for the new style of the H light, I don't like the hand grenade looking grip. Mine are all much older (one set being an orginal beta pair with no covering over the lens housing.)

 

[Soggy]

Well... it's kinda hard to signal during a cave dive if you don't unclip it .

Or, more to the point, it's harder for chickdiver to steal it from you during a lights out air sharing exit

 

[SparticleBrane]

Personally I think the thickness difference between the PT and the Scout to be a bit over-exaggerated. Even if it is a bit wider I feel that the higher quality of the PT outweighs any 'thickness issues'.
Scout on the left, PT on the right.

 

[RTodd]

Personally I think the thickness difference between the PT and the Scout to be a bit over-exaggerated. Even if it is a bit wider I feel that the higher quality of the PT outweighs any 'thickness issues'.
Scout on the left, PT on the right.QUOTE]

The PTs are better made. That angle doesn't show the increase in thickness very well. Also, I think the newer grip H lights are thicker than the old ones I am comparing too. Still, they are thicker. If you want top quality overkill get a Hazer. Otherwise, I prefer the thinner light. However, as one poster pointed out the H LEDs leave a bit to be desired. I have PTs for the better LEDs.

 

[SparticleBrane]

The wall thickness difference is 0.1" so we're looking at what, 1/5" difference total?? This is almost as bad as arguing over sigfigs.

 

[JeffG]

I have PTs for the better LEDs.

Thats the same LED that the SL4's use (which I mentioned earlier)

We found those LED's to be nicer than the Heizer's LED (or however it is spelled)

 

[RTodd]

Thats the same LED that the SL4's use (which I mentioned earlier)

We found those LED's to be nicer than the Heizer's LED (or however it is spelled)

First let me admit I have no idea how to spell the German light name but I think you are closer. I thought the UK and Chuck LEDs might have been the same but didn't have both to compare. I have used Chuck's and the German's LED on 2+ hour scooter rides out of dark caves (black walls avg. vis of 25' due to particulates). Neither time on purpose - I am the Murphy's law of failing HIDs. Subjectively, the German LED was slightly better. But, both are close and are better than what Halcyon was using at the time.

Without looking at the lights I would say actual handle thickness (diameter or whatever the tech term is) is 1/4" to a 1/2" more on the PTs. Wall thickness doesn't show the actual issue. I agree it falls in the "nit" area. No or 1 stage, small NImH lights, it doesn't matter. However, when the equipment load and bottom time starts increasing signficantly, the little stuff can really annoy you.

I own multipe version of both, Chuck is a friend and I don't care what you guys use. I was just trying to help T solve her issue.

 

[JeffG]

I thought the UK and Chuck LEDs might have been the same but didn't have both to compare.

Between a couple of us, we have seen all the different types. (We are kinda light junkies that way)

Some buddies did some backup light wars in the caves of mexico to compare them.

The unofficial list went like this (from best to worst)

Scout with SL4 LED/Proton LED * (the diff between the two were small and the bulbs look identical)
Heizer *
Scout/Proton with MAL 1W LED
Halycon 1W LED


* denotes 3W LED lights

I am the Murphy's law of failing HIDs.

You have never been on a dive trip with Nadwidny have you. LOL. I'm sure he has you beat.

 

[RTodd]

You have never been on a dive trip with Nadwidny have you. LOL. I'm sure he has you beat.

Last time I was in Mexico, setting up for a 4-5 hour dive to take some pictures with Chris and Danny I asked if one of them was going to carry a backup primary. When you are carrying that many strobes, cameras etc. that far the last thing you want is to blow the dive due to a light failure. They both gave me a you &*$$& look and we hit the water without one. My light failed due to a cord flood (manufacturing defect) just before we picked up all of our scooters to head out. Fortunately, it was on the exit so it didn't mess up the dive. The comical part was, a similar light failure due to a bad ballast happened at almost the same point in a dive in that same cave a few years ago but on the entrace requiring us to set up all over again the next day. Hence my desire not to repeat the problem.

 

[Mark Vlahos]

In fairness since this is the DIR forum I will put my standard disclaimer right up front... I am not GUE trained.

For my backup lights I use Mountain Bike sized innertubes, and not the smaller racing, or medium standard road bicycle tire innertubes. These larger innertubes are about the same size as the 2 inch webbing on my harness and are easy to grab even in cold water with wet or dry gloves, and I can easily pull them open to put the light away when it is time to re-stow the backup. When I thread a plate I always try to put two innertube pieces in place since eventually one will break and it is good to have the spare already good to go.

I rarely unclip a backup light since it is pretty easy to drop one if you get distracted. Since the primary is usually in a goodman handle I am just not accustomed to actively holding on to the light. I have been able to signal with a backup that is clipped to my harness without difficulty. When I deploy a backup light I pull up and away from the innertube so the light hangs freely from the clip and the innertube is still down low on my harness where the lens of the light used to be.

So Lynne, if you are not already using the larger diameter mountain bike sized innertube I would think that this might be your solution.

Mark Vlahos