Removing tank boots?

[TrimixToo]

I'm with Bob. Those tabs would make a wonderful way to prevent my J-rods from rattling around, instead of kludging into the tank band. Instead of grinding them off, get J-valves and pullrods so you can make good use of them. Your local LSD and certifying agency will tell you J-valves kill, despite the fact that the USN and NOAA still sanction them and sometimes even require them. And perhaps coincidentally, they have way fewer divers dying from unexplained out-of-air incidents. (A J-valve will nag you and forgive you, in a way that no pressure instrument ever will.)

That was my first thought as well. However, the first J-valve rod I found in the garage is much too short, at 20.5", to reach all the way to that thing on that kind of boot on anything except possibly a 95/98. Far too short for a 72, 85, 108, etc. Perhaps they used longer rods, but I don't recall seeing any that long, ever, perhaps to avoid interference with weights on one's belt. I very clearly recall that they were a bit hard to reach in a 1/4" (yes, 1/4", or a bit over 6mm; not 7mm) wet suit. Were they to have come far enough down the tank to overlap the boot, they would have been much easier to reach. Being able to breathe is a great motivator, so while I always managed to reach it at need, I eventually tied a cord on mine with a knot that I could feel through 1/4" gloves at the time to make it easier. This certainly suggests that they could have made the damn things longer, but it's a bit late now and SPGs are far better anyway.

That it might prevent the tank from rolling is an interesting suggestion, but I'm curious about what they are actually intended for if that's not it. It's really moot for me, because I removed that style boot from all my tanks because they don't drain well enough to keep rust from forming even if you start mid-morning and then rinse them until the cows come home for milking.

 

[Ghetto Diver]

Here is a picture of my tank boot. I hope it shows up well. I am thinking about grinding off the tab but not sure what it is for?

An accessory attachment point

Dive Tank Boot


Eta: fixed linky

 

[Storker]

An accessory attachment point

aquatec.com/en/product/Dive-Tank-Boot/bt-400.html

Linky no worky.

 

[lucca brassi]

An accessory attachment point
Dive Tank Boot
Eta: fixed linky

I have similar on my first tank Faber 18 lit . I use that drill

10-45MM 8 Step Conical Nitride Coated HSS Spiral Step Cone Drill Hole Cutter Bit | eBay

to let boot breathe and dry quick ( 7 holes - full size ) . That plastic is perfect soft to drill these holes !

 

[northernone]

Linky no worky.

Dive Tank Boot

Better?

Otherwise try searching:
Dive-Tank-Boot/bt-400

 

[NAM001]

I set my rig on a table at the site just prior to getting in to it. It holds it a little higher and so much easier than over the head to put on. removal is much easier also for me knowing i cn slide out with some stability that the tanks can sit while i turn around.

 

[Storker]

Better?

Yup.

 

[SS Keller]

Other than removing the boots for frequent cleaning and thorough drying, unless you are cave or wreck diving in narrow areas there isn't much advantage to removing them. I keep mine on for storage and transport. When I get to the dive site I kick them off. I use the boot below. I have cut a slit down one side of each boot. Then electrical tape the gap closed. This allows them to slide on and off with ease. Without being too loose to fall off on their own.

This was great advice. I understand the line trap concept, but I always found it odd for those who didn't believe in boots because they didn't want rust. All of the cylinders I've seen without boots seem to have a rusty bottom. I'd rather leave my boots on during storage, transport, to protect the bottom, and for when I need to get my cylinders filled.

I took swimlikethefish's advice and ended up trying two different methods. My first method was to cut the boot on one side all of the way down to the bottom. Doing this made the boot too loose and it would fall off on its own if I picked up the cylinders. I then tried cutting a boot about halfway down on both sides and this worked out great. I used my miter saw to cut down on the side of the boot. Because of the arm on the saw it would only go down a little past halfway. This worked out well for consistency. If I were to do it again I would mark the boot with a white sharpie how far I wanted to cut and I would go halfway. My boots are about 5 3/4 inches tall and I cut mine about 3 1/4 inches from the top on both sides. The boots now fit nice and snug. I wouldn't be concerned with them falling off if I were to dive with them on, yet they wiggle off easily. No more using a mallet to remove them. Now I can protect the bottoms, dive with them on or off, and easily remove them for drying purposes. I hope this helps.

 

[swimlikethefish]

Exactly what mine look like. If you needed to keep them on, just make a wrap or two with some electrical tape to hold them tight. I use electrical over duct as there is no residue when I take the tape off.

 

[84CJ7]

I bought my faber lp85's as a used doubles set and the bottoms looked like they had been used to break rocks thanks to the previous owner never using the boots.
Thankfully he gave me the original boots that he still had and I always use them.

All you have to do is dry the inside of the boot and the bottoms of the tank with a paper towel and liberally spray with silicone spray when you get home. It keeps the rust away and the boots slide right off with two handed finger nail grip without slitting them but have enough resistance that they will never fall off on their own.
Any damage to the finish was touched up with matching color rustoleum paint when I got them as well.
You would almost have to try to get them stuck on something as they have no lip, they are almost flush to the tank at the tops.