Removing stickers

[H2Andy]

this heat thing is a bit off topic, but i agree with those who have said not to
expose any part of the tank to high heat

assuming it's "probably" safe to do it... do you really want to take the chance?

 

[MAK52580]

I use a razor blade to SLOWLY scrape off the sticker, then use WD-40 to remove the adhesive, and then a really hot solution of hot water and Simple Green to remove the WD-40.

 

[Tobagoman]

Some welder out there needs to bend some pieces of steel to the diametesr of the different tank sizes and cut them down to about 4 inch widths, sharpen to a razor edge, and in one fell swoop you remove the sticker.

 

[SDAnderson]

Some welder out there needs to bend some pieces of steel to the diametesr of the different tank sizes and cut them down to about 4 inch widths, sharpen to a razor edge, and in one fell swoop you remove the sticker.

Are you sure Peter Built doesn't already sell one?

 

[Rick Murchison]

It's interesting to see what folks use.
I use a widget (razor blade scraper) and if there's any residual glue I use vegetable oil on a paper towel, which works as well and is a lot easier to control (keep out of unwanted places) than WD 40.
Acetone (fingernail polish remover) can damage some paints and many plastics - and lots of scuba gear has plastic parts - so personally I keep that away from my stuff.
S

 

[JustinW]

Goo Be Gone should be easy to control and will remove the gummy adhesive.

 

[Snowbear]

Instead of a razor, they had what I can only describe as a plastic fingernail on a handle, just a beveled edge, rounded like your thumbnail, with a something you could easily grip. I have no idea where you'd buy such a thing...

Sounds like something we use around here a lot 3/4 of the year... we call it an ice scraper and those of us that don't have warm garages to keep our vehicles in use them to remove frost from windshields... They're readily available 3/4 of the year at just about any place that sells stuff

For tank sticker removal I've found a plane ol' razor blade works just fine, though my poor fingers would agree that some sort of handle on it would make it even easier

 

[TX101]

Wow - Where do yu park your car that it gets that hot???

Cars parked in direct sunlight can reach internal temperatures of up to 131F - 172F when the outside temperatures are only 80F - 100F

Link

okay, 172F isn't 200F - but I did say approaching 200F..

Gavins' point about BS meters (quoted in your signature line) may be valid, but that doesn't automatically lend credibility to an opinion just because it's contrary. Especially when those expressing those opinions are specialists in being contrary. Please demonstrate that you have some basis for your opinion other than your finely tuned BS detector and that you aren't endangering others.

I actually forgot what my .sig was until I posted, because it's been so long (I remember now why I left). You're right, my .sig doesn't lend credibility to my opinion and that wasn't (and still isn't) it's intent.

My professional background is in IT, but I took my first welding class around 5 years and own O/A, MIG & AC/DC TIG welders. I use the MIG and AC TIG for specifically welding aluminium. Welding is used daily all over the world to weld high pressure vessels that hold up to 10,000psi (not that I do that type of welding).

btw, I said or implied I was a specalist - I just gave my opinion.

I'm especially interested in information from you about the effect of transient heat exposure on the strength of wrought aluminum alloys, particularly the alloys used in scuba tanks - the crux of your argument.

All I said was aluminium is a good heat conductor - which it is. When you TIG weld it, it's easier if you preheat the first inch of metal because it conducts heat away from the area and makes it difficult to strike an arc and maintain the weld puddle.

A word to other readers: TX101 is right about this much - just because you read it on ScubaBoard doesn't make it true. You should always consider whether or not the advice you read comes from a credible source or is just smoke and might be dangerous.

Always good advice.

Suffice to say that you have your opinion and I have mine. Feel free to reply with any and all flames as I have better things to do with my time than respond to your snide remarks.

 

[captain]

As for cautions about using WD 40 on diving equiptment, I have 30 year old regulators that I still use and have always sprayed them externally with WD 40 after a fresh water cleaning to prevent corrosion.

Captain

 

[SDAnderson]

As for cautions about using WD 40 on diving equiptment, I have 30 year old regulators that I still use and have always sprayed them externally with WD 40 after a fresh water cleaning to prevent corrosion.

Captain

Ummm, tasty! If you're a tin man.

You ought to take a look at the MSDS for WD 40. It's relatively harmless stuff but that doesn't mean it belongs in your mouth or lungs. Aside from the flammability issues (a concern for divers using high oxygen mixes), the MSD states that respiratory protection is advisable when exposed to concentrations in excess of 100ppm and that the compound has anesthetic properties along with the more obvious pneumonitis issue. Pam would be a better choice - at least it's food grade.

Besides, who wants to dive 30 year old regulators? I remember those things and don't miss them. I'd suggest that "hard" and "wet" are two words better associated apres dive activities than breathing technology.