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Mastow1

Registered
Messages
16
Reaction score
6
Location
Florida
# of dives
200 - 499
Second Optima CM dive after certification; 14 days since the last dive.

Preparation: Conducted leak-down tests of MAVs and regulators. Shorten leashes on bottom of AL 40s and adjusted bungee retainer system on Nomad LS. Removed 4 pounds of lead from the spine of BC and temporarily put/clipped 2 pounds back. Replaced both DiveCAN batteries.

Dive: Still heavy at beginning of dive so removed 2 lbs. lead. Two pounds remaining. Manageable but still feels heavy. Switched PPO2 setpoint at 70 ft to 1.2 while descending, anticipated PPO2 spike and mitigated by stopping. My second descent back to 98 ft was slower with less spike as expected. Removed DSV, several times, to practice clearing loop. Elevated DSV and shook valve. Some bubbles emitted, but no significant water entered the loop. This increased my confidence in the system. Flew manually. Practiced holding 15-foot depth without visual reference, bailing out, and operating all valves and vents. Was feeling cocky when all of a sudden, I simultaneously needed to check my ascent, clear my ears, and add volume to the loop. I realize that I had turned off the ADV and it was a humbling 10 seconds, that felt like two minutes, prioritizing and accomplishing these tasks. Was chilled after 70 minutes in 72° water in 3mm WS. I made numerous depth changes in this training dive and noticed I frequently vented the loop. I turned off the ADV to see if it was activating on its own. I found no evidence of this. It is stiff enough that I was able to activate it only through a conscious and forceful inhalation.

To do: Need to use a printed checklist. NOTE** I Discovered a problem, overlooked in pre-check, during surface pre-breath. Did not correctly route DiveCAN wire. Need practice gearing up. Muscle memory to find controls by feel greatly improved but still needs work. Will use removable 2lb. weight to fine-tune buoyancy. Make HUD more visible in mask. Currently, HUD cannot be adjusted to remain (clearly) in my field of view. Similarly, O2 pressure gauge is not as obvious to read as I would like; I will readjust. AL 40 cylinders still need to be positioned to stay parallel to my body during the dive. Fixes may be steel 50s and mask with more downward vision than my present one, as my instructor recommended. Steel cylinders would be appropriate for a dry suit. I need to ensure that the low-pressure hose on bailout system can be plugged into MAV or BC. I will test automatic setpoint switching on the next dive. Recalibrate Petrel 2 compass because of battery change.

Bottom line: The dive familiarized me with control locations and functions, and proper weighting. I am more familiar with how the 02 system functions at depth and after practicing most of the certification tasks I have become very confident in the system. I’m now ready to dive in saltwater or incorporate a dry suit with the rebreather.
 
Quickly reading your post.

If you are talking about bailout cylinders, avoid steel. With Aluminium, you can offload the stages and take on stages with minimal effect on your buoyancy. Remember, with CCR you can't use your lungs for small buoyancy changes, which, with steels this means adding or venting gas, which is to be avoided if possible.
If they are the DIL and O2, then steels have the advantage of displacing some of the weight.

A check list is safer (although I have to be honest, I seldom use one).

On the cylinder gauge front, unlike OC, you don't really watch the contents gauges. Gas use should really be minimal.
In preference for watching your gas usage, you watch the PO2 (far more frequently).

Rather like when people learn on OC, it is likely that you will be able to drop weight as you become more used to diving CCR.
 
Quickly reading your post.

If you are talking about bailout cylinders, avoid steel. With Aluminium, you can offload the stages and take on stages with minimal effect on your buoyancy. Remember, with CCR you can't use your lungs for small buoyancy changes, which, with steels this means adding or venting gas, which is to be avoided if possible.
If they are the DIL and O2, then steels have the advantage of displacing some of the weight.

A check list is safer (although I have to be honest, I seldom use one).

On the cylinder gauge front, unlike OC, you don't really watch the contents gauges. Gas use should really be minimal.
In preference for watching your gas usage, you watch the PO2 (far more frequently).

Rather like when people learn on OC, it is likely that you will be able to drop weight as you become more used to diving CCR.
The OP is diving the optima chestmount in a drysuit in FL. So cave diving. 2 sidemounted steel BOs are very common in FL caves. There is almost never a need to remove them, so just weight yourself for when they are near empty
 
Agree with Rjack. My bailout on all my rebreathers and especially the Optima CM because it is so light is either 50’s, 85’s or 104’s depending on the dive. Then I add AL80’s if needed beyond that.
 
Also, make sure your chin is right in the “V” at the top of the unit. If the rebreather isn’t breathing fantastically, then it’s probably too low.
 
Thank you for the input.

I plan to dive in dry-suit and its inherent buoyancy will require me to add 10 pounds of weight. If I add this weight via steel 50s, I will pick up an additional 20 ft.³ of air. If I dive my aluminum 40s, I will just add 10 pounds of lead to lug around. The issue is that the steel cylinders are just darned expensive.

I have read everything available on CCR fatalities. In the majority of incidents, correctly executing a written pre-dive checklist or breathing the unit on the surface while observing HUD and computer would have prevented the fatality. I’m going to do both. There might not be sex and heaven so this is the route I have chosen.

I was interrupted while doing a pre-dive check from memory on my last (second) dive. Then, while breathing on the loop before the dive, I noticed the system was not adding oxygen as anticipated. I corrected the problem and breathed on the loop for several more minutes observing it to function as expected, before diving. This indicated to me that using a memorized checklist is inadequate for me and pre-breathed provides an additional layer of safety
 
Thank you for the input.

I plan to dive in dry-suit and its inherent buoyancy will require me to add 10 pounds of weight. If I add this weight via steel 50s, I will pick up an additional 20 ft.³ of air. If I dive my aluminum 40s, I will just add 10 pounds of lead to lug around. The issue is that the steel cylinders are just darned expensive.

I have read everything available on CCR fatalities. In the majority of incidents, correctly executing a written pre-dive checklist or breathing the unit on the surface while observing HUD and computer would have prevented the fatality. I’m going to do both. There might not be sex and heaven so this is the route I have chosen.

I was interrupted while doing a pre-dive check from memory on my last (second) dive. Then, while breathing on the loop before the dive, I noticed the system was not adding oxygen as anticipated. I corrected the problem and breathed on the loop for several more minutes observing it to function as expected, before diving. This indicated to me that using a memorized checklist is inadequate for me and pre-breathed provides an additional layer of safety
Get yourself some prejump stickers. The build checklist and the jump checks are not the same things.
Give me a minute to remember some sources for these. Or you can make your own to go on your handset.
 
So, I was on the phone with the owner of a super popular mccr manufacturer a few weeks ago. I told that person that after my predive check, I just left the oxygen on. I explained that I know several people who turned off their oxygen after the checks, and got to the waters edge later and forgot to turn the oxygen back on. This person was adamant that leaving the oxygen on was more dangerous than forgetting to turn the oxygen back on. I did the math and on a 2l bottle the leaky valve would have taken the better part of a day to run dry. With an orifice set at .9lpm on a 200bar 2l tank, it would take over 7 hours to empty.

Come up with a routine that works for you. Definitely use a checklist. If you get interrupted, you’ll have a solid point to pick up where you left off.
 
I Took my first non training dive today on my Choptima at Monestary Beach in Monterey. All my training dives had been off a boat and had square profiles so today was a bit more involved. In Deeper water I had no issues but coming up started getting a good bit of surge; I definitely need more buoyancy practice when the water starts moving back and forth lol. Lesson learned.

The CM performed marvelously and I’m really digging this unit.

120’ max depth , 61’ minutes run, 49 F at depth.
 
Diverite has a small waterproof preflight card available. The first units shipped without them , I believe they are included now. I asked nicely and they sent me one.

Get yourself some prejump stickers. The build checklist and the jump checks are not the same things.
Give me a minute to remember some sources for these. Or you can make your own to go on your handset.
 

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