Regulator test rig you don't need to suck.

[tmassey]

Ha ha there you go…. Who cares it’s only worth $11 just hook it up. Daaaar
Home Depot I think they have glue guns, should work to seal the mouthpiece. cobble cobble

i’m glad we understand each other.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

i’m glad we understand each other.

That’s a stretch.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

Edit

 

[rhwestfall]

So, should I use 6v, 9v, or 12v to run this thing?

6v is 0.3A,
9v is 1A,
12v is 5A

9v @ 1A I think the best choice

Might have others lying around...

Edit - speed.controller is 2A, so my 12v is out....

 

[tmassey]

That should be a really easy one: what is your motor rated for? If it’s a 12 V motor, use 12 V. If it’s a 9 V motor, use 9 V. The pulse width modulation of the motor controller will take care of slowing it down by giving it spaced-out bursts of voltage (i.e. pulses, with varying widths to modulate the speed...), but the voltage should be what the motor expects.

If that is what @Open Ocean Diver was commenting about, then I completely missed that. I thought he was talking about whether the motor would be happy with PWM or not, but I assumed that the voltage being passed to the motor was the same as the voltage the motor was rated for. If I was wrong, then I both apologize and agree with him.

Use a power supply that supplies the voltage that the motor expects, with a current rating at least as high as what the motor will pull at full speed. Higher is fine: it’s no problem to supply less current than its maximum.

 

[rhwestfall]

My bad, yes, the motor is 12v, the speed controller accept various voltages....

 

[grf88]

I use a dishwasher drain connector to shove in the mouthpiece.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

That should be a really easy one: what is your motor rated for? If it’s a 12 V motor, use 12 V. If it’s a 9 V motor, use 9 V. The pulse width modulation of the motor controller will take care of slowing it down by giving it spaced-out bursts of voltage (i.e. pulses, with varying widths to modulate the speed...), but the voltage should be what the motor expects.

If that is what @Open Ocean Diver was commenting about, then I completely missed that. I thought he was talking about whether the motor would be happy with PWM or not, but I assumed that the voltage being passed to the motor was the same as the voltage the motor was rated for. If I was wrong, then I both apologize and agree with him.

Use a power supply that supplies the voltage that the motor expects, with a current rating at least as high as what the motor will pull at full speed. Higher is fine: it’s no problem to supply less current than its maximum.

My little motor at 12 volts draws .200 amps, and will give me +5 in. H20 (maximum), with the vent open and LP shut off. Which is more than enough to do cracking effort and leak testing.

 

[rhwestfall]

My little motor at 12 volts draws .200 amps, and will give me +5 in. H20 (maximum), with the vent open and LP shut off. Which is more than enough to do cracking effort and leak testing.

I will know more about power needs once the "mouthpiece" parts arrive from ScubaTools. Thanks! From that picture and description, it seems they have gone to a permanently tapped hose barb.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

Triad one of those little PWM PS on my motor, thought it would be cool to run it from a battery. But no go on a brushless motor. Cheep experiment.