DIR- GUE Regulator Set Recommendations

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What does "creep" mean?

When the high pressure seat of the regulator is failing or has failed. The internal set IP of the low pressure side of the regulator will not stay fixed and will creep up over its set amount. Going too high is one cause of free flows. The 2nd stage is the relief valve for the pressure becoming too high.
 
Just looking for stage regulator recommendations. I'm inclined to get the Halcyon stage regulator package for the convenience of having everything included. It's just a bummer that they don't do free parts for life like Apeks, for instance.

I was a fan of Atomic regulators, then went down the ScubaPro dirt road. I am back with Atomic. I just sold my MK25s/S600s and am now using Atomic M1s for stage/deco cylinders. They breath better (my opinion) and yon can use them with 80% O2 from the factory.
 
I was a fan of Atomic regulators, then went down the ScubaPro dirt road. I am back with Atomic. I just sold my MK25s/S600s and am now using Atomic M1s for stage/deco cylinders. They breath better (my opinion) and yon can use them with 80% O2 from the factory.

I'm entertaining the idea of switching from my Tek3s to either the Halcyon H-75P (mk25) or the Atomic M1s.
 
I was a fan of Atomic regulators, then went down the ScubaPro dirt road. I am back with Atomic. I just sold my MK25s/S600s and am now using Atomic M1s for stage/deco cylinders. They breath better (my opinion) and yon can use them with 80% O2 from the factory.
What’s the deal with using 100%? I feel that it’s likely just fine, but I also know they use some interesting materials.

80% is for strokes so….
 
What’s the deal with using 100%? I feel that it’s likely just fine, but I also know they use some interesting materials.

80% is for strokes so….

He is following the manufacturer's marketing/liability disclosure. Atomic M1s are marketing as "good to 80% O2 right out of the box". He probably wouldn't put a new regulator right out of the box on to a bottle of 100% unless it had a green face plate and was "O2 Clean".
 
He is following the manufacturer's marketing/liability disclosure. Atomic M1s are marketing as "good to 80% O2 right out of the box". He probably wouldn't put a new regulator right out of the box on to a bottle of 100% unless it had a green face plate and was "O2 Clean".
Oh I agree, I think its probs fine but some of their **** is NOT, like the titanium stuff.

Pretty sure titanium and o2 is not good.
 
For me that's not the case, because it's much less expensive and easier to find MK5/10 kits from sources other than SP dealers. I like MK20s, for example, especially ones with the early, all steel piston. But I don't keep them or use them because I don't want to pay a fortune for rebuild kits.

If I had a reliable source of MK20/25 kits at dealer cost, I'd probably use those.

I would agree with halocline on this. MK5s are stupidly cheap to service DIY. I get my orings from an oring store, and use the seats from the kits I still have. I cannot tell the difference between 5 and 25 in terms of how well they breath.
 
What's wrong with a MK2 for O2 use? It has to be one of the easiest regs to O2 clean, and there is very little material for fuel in a fire. Paired with a 109, seems pretty much ideal to me for a deco reg. The only combustible material in the HP air path is the tiny HP seat, and 2 o-rings (the DIN retainer and HP port). Then in the IP chamber there are both piston o-rings and LP port o-rings. In the 2nd stage only the seat and 2 o-rings. Everything else is metal. And as a bonus, you get that nice moisture from the metal case. It's not like you need a high flow regulator for deco, in fact, it might be a detriment in case of any leaks.

Maybe I'm just getting old and cranky, but to me the old simple regs just do the job better. And they're cheap!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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