Regulator Question, is this normal?

[idive2]

When I switch to my octo from my G250V during a dive the difference is VERY noticeable. I would certainly
not want to do an entire dive with it. My octo is a detuned R190 and I thought to myself that if I donated the
diver would be dealing with a hard breathing reg as well as what other issues that may be occuring. I think the
trick is to find a balance (no pun intended) on an octo between something that breathes decent but with maybe
a slightly lesser chance of free flowing.

 

[Aqua-Andy]

No, it is not normal for a new reg. to start to leak if it is a good quailty reg. and has been set to proper specs.

Well the usual dig from the Beav did not take long. I have seen many different regs do this even the Beavs pride and joy ScubaPro.



You may want to ask your local shop if they offer classes on equipment. If you are really keen, they may be looking for a part-time repair tech.

It requires a fair investment in proper tools & training to be able to do a full service on a reg.

I agree totally. Teaching people about there only makes better and safer divers, much better then keeping them in the dark like the manufacturers want.

I can't understand why some manufacturers want to keep the users or there products ignorant of it workings.

 

[halocline]

When I switch to my octo from my G250V during a dive the difference is VERY noticeable. I would certainly
not want to do an entire dive with it. My octo is a detuned R190....

I'm sure there's a compromise in tuning available that would make your R190 breathe adequately without free-flow. It won't be like the G250V tuned for best performance but it should be perfectly acceptable.

---------- Post added December 11th, 2012 at 05:35 PM ----------

If I'm already breathing mud, the last thing I want to do is have to fight 1.0 in-h2o versus my personal regs which I keep set at below 0.5 in-h2o.

First, it's very unlikely that any conventional 2nd stage can be set at a true .5" of cracking pressure and remain stable due to case fault geometry. Maybe the D series can get close to .5", but a standard barrel-poppet 2nd with an exhaust valve on the opposite side of the case from the diaphragm? Nope. So, unless you have a D400, I've got to respectfully call B.S.

Second, the difference in breathing between .5" and 1" is noticeable, but 1" of water is by no means in the hard cracking effort range. SP specs mostly call for about 1" for cracking effort on their high performance 2nd stages like the G250V and S600. That's because there's almost a 1" difference in depth between the diaphragm and the exhaust valve, so the case cannot stay stable at lower cracking efforts. If you find 1" cracking effort objectionable, I suggest you're going to be unhappy with pretty much any regulator.

Third, if you think that breathing at 100 feet is 'breathing mud' or you have to 'fight' to get air from a 2nd stage with 1" cracking effort, I think your perceptions are pretty far off from the norm. Again, depth increases place added stress on the 1st stage, which must flow far more air in terms of volume, while 2nd stages flow the same volume at any depth. I realize it takes a bit of thought to get one's head around this, at least it did for me. So if you really are noticing performance problems at depth, it's your first stage, most likely in it's ability to flow adequately at the higher rate needed to keep IP at X above ambient.

 

[bractime]

I have to agree with halocline. If you check Scuba Pro's S600 recomended cracking effort, it is 1" to 1.4" this is also true for Atomic. Both regulators are very easy breathing. He is also correct about the case fault geometries and the stability of a regulator set to under .5". A good book that explains these concepts was mentioned earlier "Regulator Savvy".

 

[KD8NPB]

I don't dive ScubaPro.

Aqualung / Apeks only.

Anything greater than 0 inches-h2o feels awkward, due to years of being a land dwelling animal with no breathing resistance. Yes, I'm picky.

But nonetheless, my primary cracks at a hair below 0.5 and my octo cracks at about 0.9. My Apeks regs freeflow on dry land if you max the settings out. I'm not quite that OCD with customers, but I do chase the fine line. Increased breathing resistance can cause CO2 buildup in during strenuous diving conditions. With new divers, the feeling of not getting enough air can onset panic.

I'd rather have too much air than too little.

 

[billt4sf]

Please correct me if I am wrong, but all this means to me that the more a given reg is set to be easy breathing, the more chance it will free flow. Is this a good reason to get an adjustment knob on a reg you plan to buy?

 

[oldschoolto]

Please correct me if I am wrong, but all this means to me that the more a given reg is set to be easy breathing, the more chance it will free flow. Is this a good reason to get an adjustment knob on a reg you plan to buy?

Yes and Yes if you doing tech diving and really need a easy breathing reg.... Most diver are fine with and don't know the differences between .5 or 1.0 ..but that is just my opinion...

Jim...

 

[beaverdivers]

but all this means to me that the more a given reg is set to be easy breathing, the more chance it will free flow. Is this a good reason to get an adjustment knob on a reg you plan to buy?

Correct! If the reg. goes to " free flow - leaking ", you can detune it. It will not breathe as easy, but you may still be able to use it. If this problem happens, it is time for a bench check. Your reg. may need to be serviced to get it back to breathing to specifications.

 

[redacted]

Actually, if you detune it just enough to stop the leak, it may well breath just like a properly tuned regulator (or so close that you would not be able to tell the difference. If you detune it more than necesary to stop the leak, it will increase work of breathing.

 

[beaverdivers]

Actually, if you detune it just enough to stop the leak, it may well breath just like a properly tuned regulator (or so close that you would not be able to tell the difference. If you detune it more than necesary to stop the leak, it will increase work of breathing.

If your reg. was adjusted to spec. before the " leak ", then you detune it. It will increase work of breathing (WOB). It may or may not still be in spec. For example a S600's spec. is 1.1 -1.3. If it was set to 1.1 and then you detune it to 1.3. It may be OK. It is your reg., it is up to you if you are satisfied with how it breathes.

However as you use the reg. over a period of time, it will continue to go to " free flow " and need service. Yes you can continue to detune, but each time increases WOB.