Regulator issues after servicing

[uncfnp]

The Mikron second stage can be adjusted with a flat head screw driver. Likely the shop adjusted it to the new seat but use changed it just enough to create the hiss. Should be an easy fix. Curious if closing the adjustment knob stopped the hiss.

Unless you saw a bubble leak you were not losing air while diving.

 

[dlofting]

I'm curious - particularly for them folks that do their own service -

Do your SAD kit include an inline adjustment tool of a bi-orientation (both flat blade and hex)? My SAD kit may have to get just a little bit bigger. (it does include a smallish IP gauge-and a adapter for the honking SP Air2 hose QD fitting...)

Granted an appropriate screwdriver or a hex key might take less room but might throw you into a trial-and-error exercise that an inline tool would short circuit.

While I have the tools to bust off the hose from a reg, then what?

I wouldn't usually consider adjustment of that nature something to do mid-trip, but ....

OMMOHY

Yes I take my inline adjustment tool on all dive trips. It's easy to use. Even if you don't service your own regs it's a good tool to have. You can easily add an IP gauge to it and with an allen key learn to adjust that too if you want.

 

[uncfnp]

Yes I take my inline adjustment tool on all dive trips. It's easy to use. Even if you don't service your own regs it's a good tool to have. You can easily add an IP gauge to it and with an allen key learn to adjust that too if you want.

I have an inline tool but don’t carry it on trips. Any adjustments that would be needed on a trip *shouldn’t* be anything more then a quick tweak.

 

[James79]

I'm curious - particularly for them folks that do their own service -

Do your SAD kit include an inline adjustment tool of a bi-orientation (both flat blade and hex)? My SAD kit may have to get just a little bit bigger. (it does include a smallish IP gauge-and a adapter for the honking SP Air2 hose QD fitting...)

Granted an appropriate screwdriver or a hex key might take less room but might throw you into a trial-and-error exercise that an inline tool would short circuit.

While I have the tools to bust off the hose from a reg, then what?

I wouldn't usually consider adjustment of that nature something to do mid-trip, but ....

OMMOHY

As @uncfnp mentioned, to stop just a dribble should be a ridiculously minor adjustment..... I'll do that with a guestimated fraction of a turn quite comfortably. Worst case side effect of overdoing it is lowering the lever height, reducing maximum throw. But that's a big over adjustment, and would be evident on a purge test after hooking it back up.

Respectfully,

James

 

[rsingler]

As @uncfnp mentioned, to stop just a dribble should be a ridiculously minor adjustment..... I'll do that with a guestimated fraction of a turn quite comfortably. Worst case side effect of overdoing it is lowering the lever height, reducing maximum throw. But that's a big over adjustment, and would be evident on a purge test after hooking it back up.

Respectfully,

James

Bingo! When the OP mentioned greater difficulty at 60+ feet (3x thicker gas), one immediately thinks of a low lever permitting only partial valve opening. Scary.

Sounds like we need an entirely new Forum on ScubaBoard called "Dive Shop Repair Fails".
Problem is, it would be so big it would displace all the other good forums we have...

 

[rx7diver]

I'm curious - particularly for them folks that do their own service -

Do your SAD kit include an inline adjustment tool of a bi-orientation (both flat blade and hex)? ...

No, I do not have an inline adjustment tool in my save-a-dive kit. Mine is a small Pelican case (#1150?). An IAT would fit (I think), but I've never needed one. My Scubapro Mk 10 and Balanced Adjustable/G250 regulators don't require one. (I have rebuilt these regs during a surface interval!)

rx7diver

 

[lexvil]

I just bring a spare reg.

 

[Angelo Farina]

I'm curious - particularly for them folks that do their own service -

Do your SAD kit include an inline adjustment tool of a bi-orientation (both flat blade and hex)? My SAD kit may have to get just a little bit bigger. (it does include a smallish IP gauge-and a adapter for the honking SP Air2 hose QD fitting...)

Granted an appropriate screwdriver or a hex key might take less room but might throw you into a trial-and-error exercise that an inline tool would short circuit.

While I have the tools to bust off the hose from a reg, then what?

I wouldn't usually consider adjustment of that nature something to do mid-trip, but ....

OMMOHY

I did service my Scubapro regs in the last 45 years. I do not own an inline adjusting tool as when I was trained to service my regs (in 1980 at the Scubapro factory in Casarza Ligure) the technician did warn me that those inline tools can easily damage the seat and wear the sharp edge of the volcano orifice, if operated under pressure.
The correct procedure is to close the valve, detach the hose from 2nd stage, press the purge button for avoiding contact between seat and orifice, then adjust the orifice with a flat screwdriver, and release the purge button.
It requires several attempts, it is slower, but it ensures to not damage the seat/orifice..
And if you just hand-tight the hose nut, as I do, the only tool required is a Victorinox swiss-army knife.
Several times I fixed an hissing reg while already on the boat and discovering the problem during pre-dive checkout...

 

[dlofting]

I did service my Scubapro regs in the last 45 years. I do not own an inline adjusting tool as when I was trained to service my regs (in 1980 at the Scubapro factory in Casarza Ligure) the technician did warn me that those inline tools can easily damage the seat and wear the sharp edge of the volcano orifice, if operated under pressure.
The correct procedure is to close the valve, detach the hose from 2nd stage, press the purge button for avoiding contact between seat and orifice, then adjust the orifice with a flat screwdriver, and release the purge button.
It requires several attempts, it is slower, but it ensures to not damage the seat/orifice..
And if you just hand-tight the hose nut, as I do, the only tool required is a Victorinox swiss-army knife.
Several times I fixed an hissing reg while already on the boat and discovering the problem during pre-dive checkout...

I think the inline adjustment tool has been changed since 1980. I'm not sure how the one I have could do damage if it's used correctly.

 

[rsingler]

Both the unbalanced

and balanced designs

will not damage the seat as long as the seat is lifted from the orifice (i.e., push the purge button and let it hiss).

And when pressurized, a balanced or unbalanced second stage will only have a hair of pressure on the seat (less than a half pound). Damaging a seat with a Scubapro acetal orifice would be very hard to do.

The history of seat damage dates from sharp metal knife edge orifices and unbalanced regs with large spring forces being adjusted when unpressurized. There, you might cut a seat.

My practice is to install a flow stop between the hose and adjuster. When I need to adjust, I just shut off the gas, press the purge button (and only a tiny wisp of gas exits), make the adjustment and turn the gas back on. No waste. No noise. Quick and easy.