Regulator Identification

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akant

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Location
Pflugerville, Texas
# of dives
100 - 199
I would like to request help identifying the following regulators.. I aquired these today in the hope that I can rebuild them.. and gain experience with the process. Any tips and help would be very much appreciated. Are service manuals or similar training available for the DYI enthusiast?

Thank you!
 

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The picture on the left looks to be a Scubapro Mk10 1st stage with a later model Air 1 2nd stage.

-Z
 
Looks like a 3200, manual attached for you to confirm, as the picture does not really show the first stage.

If the dry bleed works, then rebuild the rest as it is a reliable reg, if it doesn't the part is discontinued so you would have to scavenge another reg. The reg will work without the dry bleed operational but defeats it's purpose.

The second stages are simple, reliable, and work well, but are average performers for their day. Fix them for your big save a dive kit.
 

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  • SRB3200.pdf
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The Sherwood second has a brut faceplate (which is pretty ambiguous). It has the metal ring (as opposed to the later plastic ring).

Look for SRB 3100 or SRB 3200.
 
@Zef - Yeah, it is a MK-10.... plastic saddle was the clue I overlooked...

I believe the earlier model air 1 2nds stages had a hexagonal nut on the side opposite the hose, and later models had what became the traditional splined version as the one in the picture.

-Z
 
A MK10 was the 1st first stage I rebuilt when learning how to rebuild regulators. Watching the MK5 rebuild video series made by VDH would be a good way to get an idea of what is involved, rebuilding a MK10 is the same process as MK5.

The AIR1 is perhaps not the easiest second stage to learn on, not as intuitive and simple when compared to many other second stages. But fun to learn about after getting familiar with the more standard designs.
The Sherwood second stages would be perfect for gaining rebuild experience. Although it is not a perfect match with the Sherwoods, the VDH US Divers 1085 video shows a similar second stage design being worked on.
 

Attachments

  • MK10 Service and repair guide.pdf
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  • mk10 annotated.pdf
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  • AIR 1 Manual.pdf
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  • AIR1 annotated.pdf
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As far as the Sherwood..
Closely examine the body of the 2nd stage. The older models are prone to stress cracking around the inlet. Sometimes its obvious, and other times very hard to see.
I have several that are cracked. If so, save the guts as they can be used in the following generations body.
Otherwise a simple but great regulator.

Older brittle plastic on right (slick surface) newer one on the left.
20221114_161604-removebg-preview.png
 
As far as the Sherwood..
Closely examine the body of the 2nd stage. The older models are prone to stress cracking around the inlet. Sometimes its obvious, and other times very hard to see.
I have several that are cracked. If so, save the guts as they can be used in the following generations body.
Otherwise a simple but great regulator.

Older brittle plastic on right (slick surface) newer one on the left.
View attachment 753535

The cracking on the hard plastic is due more with ham handed techs trying to over tighten the connection, rather than a flaw in material or design. I've never had one crack on me, and was impressed with the abuse the hard plastic reg could take, after using metal regs up to that point.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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