Regulator Identification

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minervamar:
dd2,

The knob on the yoke is Tekna, you have a matching set.

If you find a source for parts, please let me know.

Mike

Tekna the company has changed hands several times. First it became Ocean Edge and now it is Ocean Reef (an Italian company). Lennox at Ocean Reef says the first stage is a model 6600 and is still supported. The second stage is a model 2100 and is no longer supported.

Can anyone suggest a way to obtain a rebuild kit for the first stage. It appears that only technicians working inside a dive shop can order the parts.
 
Yo Dawg, (lol)

Just another two cents but it seems like those two pins on the end is your access to the HP seat. It unscrews to reveal 3 pin ends and another similar screw. The seat is burried under there. Similar to the cressi version of the copied SCubapro. I had the same problem. Now there are some bells going off. I didn't touch the hp seat, but I did change the piston stem or-ing and it worked. A common problem with flow through pistons is that the stem o-ring gets sheared however, and leaks air past the o-ringlike its not there. It is a pain to get it and even harder not to damage during reassembly. R010 is your best friend.

Are you intending on doing this yourself? Have you ever done it before?
 
If it is an SP Mk 5 clone or a Mk 10 clone, the odds are you will be able to flip the HP seat over as pretty much everyone used flat seats at that time. The two holes on the end of the first stage are for removing the seat retainer. An SP multi-tool would be ideal but just about any adjustable pin spanner will work. Once the seat retainer is removed, the best approach is to blow the seat out of the retainer using compressed air and a small rubber nozzle sealed against the hole. That will prevent damaging the seat.

If the seat has already been flipped, you could possibly reface it with an emory board as long as you keep it square. But be aware that the thinner the seat becomes, the higher the IP gets. A better solution would be to find a new seat and that is probably not as hard as it sounds as it probably uses the same seat as the SP MK 5 or Mk 10, the TUSA MK 10 clone and various other Mk 5 or Mk 10 clones.

You will also need a specilaty tool to remove the cap in front of the yoke to access the and remove the piston. The multi-tool will again work fine to accomplish that.

The yoke nut requires a specialized yoke nut socket that is both shorter and thinner than a regular socket. In a pinch, if it is not corroded in place too badly, large (15")cresent wrench can be used. The downside is that you will only contact two of the flats on the nut and can damage it if it is stuck in place. And if you get it removed, you can't torque it properly with a cresent wrench when you re-assemble it.
 
DA Aquamaster:
The yoke nut requires a specialized yoke nut socket that is both shorter and thinner than a regular socket. In a pinch, if it is not corroded in place too badly, large (15")cresent wrench can be used. The downside is that you will only contact two of the flats on the nut and can damage it if it is stuck in place. And if you get it removed, you can't torque it properly with a cresent wrench when you re-assemble it.

If you use the end of an old HP hose screwed into the first stage, and plant it into a vise it will give you a good anchor point to get the nut offwithout completely destroying the nut face and that wonderful chrome.

As for Arraial's question, It depends on what the second stage performs like. I have not worked on one of those cressi models. But assuming that you have a similar first stage, they breathe quite well. The first stage being the open port flow through piston, requires a little more lube. Should give you lots of air. And like DA said it is likely a clone of the older scubapro regs.
 
Tks Da and Rescue
I saw the Ocean Reef homepage and indeed their piston model is a SP clone . Cressi Airmax is a Ocean Reef TR94 Polar diaphragm model without antifreeze kit . Don' t know if it's a SP clone, however. In Brazil, I usually see scubapro piston models.
I bought this to my daugther. It has a small balanced second stage (resembles aqualung micra) and breathes very well .
On another thread someone said that a Tekna (also an OCean Reef ) came apart during a dive.... Scary...
Any other info would be great
 
The second stage appears to be a Tekna 2100 BX (third generation) - hard to tell from the picture angle. 1st is as discussed in this thread (used to dive the 2100 B reg as my main).

Any luck on servicing this reg?

Any interest in selling / trading? (collector interest)

Paul
 
dogdiver2:
Can you help me ID the regulator pictured. If so can I still find parts for it. The high pressure gas is escaping through the mouthpiece


Could also be a Scubapro MKII. Parts are rare but still can be found.
 

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